Newbie intro and guidance request

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I think this could work. Do you plan on dropping the oil pan after the last flush? It would be good to clear it of loosened debris.

Re-oiling the engine will be the hard part. Of course you need a way to prime the oil system before running the engine again, and that will take care of the bearings, but oil may not get to every part that needs it right away. The Simple Green will have completely degreased things such as piston rings and cam lobes. That it, unless you follow the SG fill by completely filling the engine with some kind of oil. Let it "soak" in tge oil, then drain it and refill it with the normal engine oil capacity.
 
Rather invest into some ester based oil...and proceed with normal OCI...esters will clean your engine...

Or to avoid higher expenses...buy only 1-2 quarts of ester based engine oil and add that amount inro your sump...
 
I like Kano Kreen and Rislone Concentrate for dirty engines, as they allow you to drive the vehicle as they clean. The Rislone Concentrate double dose and drive for 100 miles, or Kreen idle purge using the whole quart can might be in order here.
 
Thanks Trav, I cut a few corners and made a rather crude "primer". Fortunately, on the boxer engine the oil sensor is sticking straight up at twelve o'clock. It also accepted a 1/8" pipe thread 6" nipple. From there I used 1 1/2" PVC with threaded adapters and large caps on each end. I drilled and tapped each threaded 1 1/2"cap to fit the 1/8" nipple on one end and a quick disconnect on the other. PVC assembly attached to nipple, sticking straight up, removed threaded cap, filled with oil, replaced cap, attached regulated (30psi) hose and let it flow. Repeated multiple times. I feel much better now that the bearing and gallerys have been flushed and lubricated. Tomorrow I will attach the exhaust and fire it up.

In summary, I traveled to Missouri to work on this oil consumption issue, approx 1 quart to 400 miles. I brought a new PCV valve but I found the old one to still work so I decided to move forward with flush method that I proposed above. After bench testing with carboned pistons I found a 48 hour soak in Simple Green will completely dissolve the carbon without rubbing or brushing.

My procedure: Purchased a can of Kreen from Kano Labs and had my daughter throw 1/2 can into the oil and start the preflush. She put about 300 miles on the Subaru with the Kreen. I warmed the vehicle up, drained the oil, drained the oil filter and put it back in place. I removed the PVC and crankcase vent hoses so I could verify the level of the solvent. I also pulled the plugs and dropped the exhaust so I could monitor what was coming into the combustion chamber. I then (over) filled the crankcase in an attempt to completely submerge the pistons. It took FIVE gallons of Simple Green and it eventually started coming out of the PCV threaded hole in the top of the engine. (I removed the PVC valve.) I observed that after 15-30 mins fluid began to drip out of two exhaust ports. After a longer period of time fluid started coming out of one of the spark plug holes. These two factors confirm that fluid was working its way past the piston rings. I let this soak for 48 hrs and I occasionally rotated the engine by hand to allow different valves to open and different cylinders to fill. After 24 hours I drained the solution, filtered it through a 400 and 200 micron filter, then refilled the engine. At 48 hours I drained the Simple Green and then created a diesel mixture to flush out the SG. I mixed one quart of oil and one bottle of dry-gas to four gallons of diesel. Filled the engine again, waited two hours occasionally baring the motor over. Drained that out. I attached my homemade primer mixed a dash of Kreen and a dash of dry-gas with two quarts of oil and pumped it thru the system. Installed new filter, filled with oil and a dash of dry gas. Tomorrow I'll see if I can wake Frankenstein up. I'am thinking of running the engine for 15-20 mins with no load and change the oil. Maybe the second oil chance after a few hundred miles.
 
Did you do a compression test on the cylinders? Very interested in your feed back overall on your "project!!" My best friend has a 2005 Subaru Baja with the 2.5L NA & it does not consume oil any longer since we have been running a HM 5W30 motor oil through it on 4000 mile intervals. When I initially started changing the oil for her -- it would consume about a quart overall in a 4000 mile interval just using regular SN conventional 5W30. I realize your situation & hers is totally different. Just food for the thought. We also the last 5 or 6 oil changes have only been running the Wix made Super Tech oil filter on it. This year she estimates she will hit the 100 thousand mile marker on the motor & 5spd manual trans.
 
Kreen with a high detergent oil from Shell Pennzoil. Might try the Liquimoly Motor Oil Saver. Seems to clean really well. Ever thought of trying to use water vaporization through throttle body to try and loosen the crud.
 
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