aluminum diff cover

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This one from Mag Hytec states 12-16 lb-ft:



I would use silicone in a tube to form a gasket in the groove.
 
I have never torqued bolts for a diff cover. I have always tightened them with a ratchet with minimal light pressure in a cross pattern and then snugged them down 1/2 turn to 1 full turn using a fist on the ratchet handle sort of thing. Never had a leak.

As for the silicone I like Permatex Grey Gasket Maker. I use it on all pans / covers like this. Just make sure the surface is good and clean / oil free and give it some time to set up before you refill. My transmission oil pan is practically vertical so if it's going to leak it would on my Journey and it's dry.

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I put the G2 on with my factory gasket … but since it is now a stiff and fully machined mating ~ all appropriate silicone works = if you give them time to cure etc …
 
I also use Ultra Grey on differential covers. The Lube Locker is a good idea if you have to pull the cover to drain the gear oil....It's the only gasket I've seen work on flat flange Dana covers.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
As for the silicone I like Permatex Grey Gasket Maker.


Do you leave it as a bead, or do you butter it ?
 
I put on a thin bead that I know will flatten into place without leaving heaps of it in whatever I'm sealing. I might work it a little bit around the bolt holes here/there but that's it.
 
I can never get a uniform bead with a squeeze tube. I have to use a cartridge and a caulking gun if I want a uniform bead. When I'm using a squeeze tube, I end up spreading it like butter.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I f you want to use the gasket, I like YamaBond gasket adhesive. Or, Hylomar - either is readily available and both work well
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I really wanna try this Hylomar stuff some day. It just worked out I heard of it right after I bought a caulk gun type tube of grey RTV and so Im still working my way through that.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
I really wanna try this Hylomar stuff some day. It just worked out I heard of it right after I bought a caulk gun type tube of grey RTV and so Im still working my way through that.


What I want to try is that Permatex Right Stuff. I know it's an aerosol and it pushes out the sealant, but I'm curious about how fast it comes out and how easy it is to keep a uniform bead width.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
I really wanna try this Hylomar stuff some day. It just worked out I heard of it right after I bought a caulk gun type tube of grey RTV and so Im still working my way through that.


What I want to try is that Permatex Right Stuff. I know it's an aerosol and it pushes out the sealant, but I'm curious about how fast it comes out and how easy it is to keep a uniform bead width.

I have right stuff in the tube.
As far as the aerosol type, those are easy to work with. We have them at work.
 
I've never had the opportunity to use Hylomar, but it has been spoken of highly on this site.
I like using Permatex Ultra Black.
Use any good product and then your concern will be prep work and applying / read the instructions.

 
When I did the diff cover on a friend's Tahoe after draining it, I used a Fel-Pro gasket with high-tack to hold the gasket on. I think I torqued to 10-12lt-lbs or whatever GM called for in a criss-cross pattern.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
I really wanna try this Hylomar stuff some day. It just worked out I heard of it right after I bought a caulk gun type tube of grey RTV and so Im still working my way through that.


What I want to try is that Permatex Right Stuff. I know it's an aerosol and it pushes out the sealant, but I'm curious about how fast it comes out and how easy it is to keep a uniform bead width.


I've used Right Stuff in the pressurized can several times. Works well, Kind if like the cheese in a can you put on crackers. Leaves a nice uniform bead and seems to be a good quality material. It's all I use on the intake valleys on the GM engines!
 
Use gear oil RTV by Permatex. It's made to resist break down from limited slip additive which apparently can break down normal RTV enough to leak over time. Torque by feel is fine if you work on cars enough.
 
Originally Posted By: cronk
I've used Right Stuff in the pressurized can several times. Works well, Kind if like the cheese in a can you put on crackers. Leaves a nice uniform bead and seems to be a good quality material. It's all I use on the intake valleys on the GM engines!


How fast does it come out of the can? Does it come out real fast and you to move your hand fast?
 
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