Vq35de oil for engine that will be thrashed

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 12, 2016
Messages
527
Location
Columbia, MD
After driving the ranger I posted about and deciding it won't work, I have the option to buy a 2004 g35 sedan with the 6 speed for stupid cheap.

I previously owned one of these with the same exact engine but it was an 04 coupe 6mt. I put a vortech v3 supercharger on that and made 450whp but I no longer have the car. I ran 10w30 and it was fine but I was always easy on the car.

This sedan will be a drift car. It will get a 2 way LSD, coilovers, sticky rubber up front, hydro hand brake, and angle kit. I already have some parts for this car and I know the chassis well. The aftermarket is also huge for this car because it is mechanically identical to the 350z so thats a plus. engine will remain stock for the 2018 season assuming it makes it that long.

What oil should I run to avoid spinning a bearing, which these engines are known to do? It will spend lots of time at the limiter. I want to make this motor last to the end of the 2018 grassroots season before I swap it.

Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
20W50.


Was thinking the same but there will be a few events in February and March and it'll still be cold. And id like to drive the car on the street some while it's being built and refined this winter.
 
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
20W50.


Was thinking the same but there will be a few events in February and March and it'll still be cold. And id like to drive the car on the street some while it's being built and refined this winter.


I'd seriously consider the 0w-40. Porsche A40 AECA A3/B4. Lots of anti-wear additives
 
I'm not worried about wear. I'm worried about spinning a bearing.

I'd rather wear the motor the [censored] out and have it make it one season before the swap than have it spin a bearing on the second event.
 
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
I'm not worried about wear. I'm worried about spinning a bearing.

I'd rather wear the motor the [censored] out and have it make it one season before the swap than have it spin a bearing on the second event.


After that ignorant statement I suggest you read about the causes of spun bearing.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/engine-bearing-technology-spin-spun-bearings/

Anti wear packages come into play when the oil film allows metal to metal contact.... by providing boundary lubrication.

Good luck
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
I'm not worried about wear. I'm worried about spinning a bearing.

I'd rather wear the motor the [censored] out and have it make it one season before the swap than have it spin a bearing on the second event.


After that ignorant statement I suggest you read about the causes of spun bearing.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/engine-bearing-technology-spin-spun-bearings/

Anti wear packages come into play when the oil film allows metal to metal contact.... by providing boundary lubrication.

Good luck


Excellent info there. Thanks. Dunno if calling me ignorant was necessary. Always interested in learning.
 
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
I'm not worried about wear. I'm worried about spinning a bearing.

I'd rather wear the motor the [censored] out and have it make it one season before the swap than have it spin a bearing on the second event.


After that ignorant statement I suggest you read about the causes of spun bearing.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/engine-bearing-technology-spin-spun-bearings/

Anti wear packages come into play when the oil film allows metal to metal contact.... by providing boundary lubrication.

Good luck


Excellent info there. Thanks. Dunno if calling me ignorant was necessary. Always interested in learning.


Interesting link, SilverFusion2010.

Excerpt from "causes..."

 
I wouldn’t consider 0W-40 “thick racing oil” by any means. It’s barely in the 40-grade. I believe Mobil is the thinnest one... almost a 30 weight.
 
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
I'm not worried about wear. I'm worried about spinning a bearing.

I'd rather wear the motor the [censored] out and have it make it one season before the swap than have it spin a bearing on the second event.


After that ignorant statement I suggest you read about the causes of spun bearing.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/engine-bearing-technology-spin-spun-bearings/

Anti wear packages come into play when the oil film allows metal to metal contact.... by providing boundary lubrication.

Good luck


Excellent info there. Thanks. Dunno if calling me ignorant was necessary. Always interested in learning.

Well, technically he didn't call you ignorant. He called your comment ingorant, meaning it lacked knowledge or awareness of the causes of spun bearings. Therefore, he provided you a link which educates on the causes of spun bearings, hopefully leading to greater knowledge on the topic.
 
Originally Posted By: EngineBuilderMag
Bearing clearances too tight for the oil viscosity being used. Late model engines such as a Chevy LS or Ford modular V8 with tighter main and rod bearing clearances of .0015˝ to .002˝ usually require a thin multi-viscosity motor oil such as 5W-20. Fill the crankcase with a relatively thick racing oil and you’ll have problems right from the start.


Hmmmm. The crank bearing clearance on my motorcycle is spec'd at 0.0006" - 0.0015" which is even tighter than the Chevy LS or Modular V8, yet the recommended viscosity grade is 10W-40, with 20W-50 allowed. I'm running SAE 40. I guess I have all kinds of problems! I'm literally spinning bearings everywhere!
shocked.gif
 
Your VQ probably has an oil chart per ambient outside operating temperature in the owners manual and fsm. My 300ZX says 20W50 is usable down to 14F. I'd be curious to see what it says.

Castrol Edge 5W50 might be a good oil for your VQ.
 
Originally Posted By: JustN89
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Originally Posted By: TinyVoices
I'm not worried about wear. I'm worried about spinning a bearing.

I'd rather wear the motor the [censored] out and have it make it one season before the swap than have it spin a bearing on the second event.


After that ignorant statement I suggest you read about the causes of spun bearing.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/engine-bearing-technology-spin-spun-bearings/

Anti wear packages come into play when the oil film allows metal to metal contact.... by providing boundary lubrication.

Good luck


Excellent info there. Thanks. Dunno if calling me ignorant was necessary. Always interested in learning.

Well, technically he didn't call you ignorant. He called your comment ingorant, meaning it lacked knowledge or awareness of the causes of spun bearings. Therefore, he provided you a link which educates on the causes of spun bearings, hopefully leading to greater knowledge on the topic.

This.

I could have phrased that better. Sorry
 
Originally Posted By: jeff78
Originally Posted By: EngineBuilderMag
Bearing clearances too tight for the oil viscosity being used. Late model engines such as a Chevy LS or Ford modular V8 with tighter main and rod bearing clearances of .0015˝ to .002˝ usually require a thin multi-viscosity motor oil such as 5W-20. Fill the crankcase with a relatively thick racing oil and you’ll have problems right from the start.


Hmmmm. The crank bearing clearance on my motorcycle is spec'd at 0.0006" - 0.0015" which is even tighter than the Chevy LS or Modular V8, yet the recommended viscosity grade is 10W-40, with 20W-50 allowed. I'm running SAE 40. I guess I have all kinds of problems! I'm literally spinning bearings everywhere!
shocked.gif



+1
........and when engine oil MOFT (depending viscosity grade in use) is in tens or hundreds of nanometer.
laugh.gif

Btw, 0.0006" = 15,240 nanometers!
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top