Seized set screw removal

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JHZR2

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On 1920s-ish hardware on a same age door.

Knobs were loose, but set screw was stuck. Someone long ago already stripped the screw thread, so Ive tried to remove it.

Kroil, ATF, etc don't help. I assume there's a combo of human oils, chemical bonding, etc.

Going to break the extractor if I try any harder.

So what's next??

 
Pardon my ignorance, isn't that what I did?

I used a #2 extractor with a hole pre drilled. Used a slightly undersized hole so the extractor had more bite and less chance to bottom out.

A shallow extractor bites but distorts the brass around the screw vs removing it. Ask how I know
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New set screw will be 1/4-20, are you implying to just drill and tap as is?
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Drill it out.


I agree.

To answer your follow on question I think what Warstud was saying and what I'm suggesting is to drill the set screw in your drill press as you end already done for the tap drill size for the size of the set screw, then tap and use a new set screw. No need to go over size from original, just make new threads.
 
That's the wrong kind of extractor. What those kind do is exert outward force on the fastener as you turn it to the left. Counterproductive is the word I use to describe those kind of extractors.
 
Back that extractor out before it snaps. Continue to drill going up in size gradually until there is no screw left. Then tap, I would use the smallest over size possible. a 10-32, 12-24 3/16? I'm surprised you don't have a set of left hand bits. Not that I've had any success with my LH index
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I'd keep up-sizing the drills gradually. If you get lucky, the threads on the old set screw can be picked out like a spring. I've seen it done. Then clean up the threads on the door knob with a tap of the same size threads and you're good-to-go.

That was a popular style door knob. We have the same ones in our house.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
That's the wrong kind of extractor. What those kind do is exert outward force on the fastener as you turn it to the left. Counterproductive is the word I use to describe those kind of extractors.


Yup, observed that, though from one of the "seen on tv" types HD sells. Thought a more aggressive taper (get fatter in shorter distance) was good given that I can't get the rod out.

The brass gave easily as a result.

So what is the better kind of extractor. For me and for this sort of a job I certainly don't mind paying good money upfront to have the right tool and do a proper job with minimal hang ups.

I like DIY and on Sunday my time isn't money, but I don't care to waste my day if there's a better tool.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Back that extractor out before it snaps. Continue to drill going up in size gradually until there is no screw left. Then tap, I would use the smallest over size possible. a 10-32, 12-24 3/16? I'm surprised you don't have a set of left hand bits. Not that I've had any success with my LH index
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Don't have left hand bits. But then again, my 1950s dp is one way only
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Originally Posted By: Rick in PA
I'd keep up-sizing the drills gradually. If you get lucky, the threads on the old set screw can be picked out like a spring. I've seen it done.


Exactly - it just takes time, precision.... and a LOT of patience.

It saves the original threads.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

So what is the better kind of extractor. For me and for this sort of a job I certainly don't mind paying good money upfront to have the right tool and do a proper job


this kind:

L_d1827.jpg
 
Is there a name for those?

Even snap on seems to be selling spiral/multi-spline types.
 
Drilled out to #7 then tapped to 1/4-20. Success.

It was crooked, not sure how I could do that better - I was a bit sensitive to clamping the handle in a vice.


 
Nice work! I would not have clamped it in a vise either. Crooked won't matter for that, with the set screw in, you will never know.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
So what is the better kind of extractor.


The tapered square kind. They wedge in by tapping them with a hammer, but the outward force does not increase as you're turning it. They're drill bit specific, so you have to use the correct corresponding drill bit. I've had excellent success with these. Made by Proto in USA.
185-157.01_s500_p1._V086588d6_.jpg
 
I have removed hundreds of bolts and screws by tig welding the screw and either using Vise Grips on the built up weld or welding a nut to the built up weld area.
 
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