right bolts for wheel bearings? '14 Volt

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so my brother bought a used volt last summer, loves everything about it so far, except there is a definite vibration from somewhere, He thinks he's gotten it narrowed down to rear hub bearing, which he went ahead and bought the replacement part for. every source he's been able to find, Volt Forums, a copy of the FSM i managed to track down,etc, say the bolts that attach the bearing are one time use, to throw them away and replace with new, but there is no part number listed anywhere, no description of said bolts, and none came with the new bearings he ordered.

anyone familiar enough with this chassis(same parts for the cruze, same lack of bolts/identification.)

yes, he could remove one, and try to match it at a fastenal or similar, but, that would put the car out of commission in the mean time, and he'd like to have all the hardware on hand before starting the job.(super duh!)

anyone able to pass on some knowledge?
 
well of course he's not gotten around to actually calling anyone...
keeps reminding himself to call the Buick dealer he bought it from to see what they say, but never quite gets to it...
 
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Originally Posted By: earlyre
well of course he's not gotten around to actually calling anyone...
keeps reminding himself to call the Buick dealer he bought it from to see what they say, but never quite gets to it...


Is this the brother that had the Mustang and two Challengers from Texas? That's quite the difference in cars.
smile.gif
 
he never had 2 challengers concurrently....
had a 2013, sold it for an EB mustang that had a driveline vibration issue of it's own, when neither he or ford could find a reason for that vibration, he traded it in on a 2015 Chally.
Still has that Chally, 2007 Dakota, 98 Mustang, and the 2014 Volt.
almost convinced himself to let the Challenger go a couple times now(it has less than 3k mi on it still. put it in storage last winter, and it will probably be there before long for this winter)..
 
Take a bolt to Fastenal or Grainger, possibly a big Ace hardware. Get a real bolt this time. One that can be re-used.
 
Looking at this image

MO_512508_Ang__ra_p.jpg


it looks like your standard ordinary sealed wheel bearing like has been on other cars since the dawn of front wheel drive. Assuming 12mm lug studs the mounting holes should be "around" 10mm. But there are several thread pitches in that size. He should be able to take the naked part to a hardware store and test feel various bolts. Take note you want a very specific length so they don't protrude too far and catch the backside of something spinning, as well as OE or better grade.

I cannot imagine a reason for them to use torque-to-yield bolts except

1) it speeds up their assembly line by .01%
2) they can skip the loctite or
3) it's a made up rule to duck liability.

But it does hold the wheel on so I'm not telling an internet stranger it's ok to reuse without knowing the reasoning.
 
Check for an updated axle nut torque spec when he does this job. Some GM models initially used 181 ft.lb and suffered premature hub bearing failure, they finally settled on 118 ft.lb and no more problem.
I cant say if the same is true with this model but do some research.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Check for an updated axle nut torque spec when he does this job. Some GM models initially used 181 ft.lb and suffered premature hub bearing failure, they finally settled on 118 ft.lb and no more problem.
I cant say if the same is true with this model but do some research.


It's a rear bearing. No axle nut to worry about.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 14Accent
Originally Posted By: Trav
Check for an updated axle nut torque spec when he does this job. Some GM models initially used 181 ft.lb and suffered premature hub bearing failure, they finally settled on 118 ft.lb and no more problem.
I cant say if the same is true with this model but do some research.


It's a rear bearing. No axle nut to worry about.


I missed that but anyway something to keep in mind if the front goes.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
p/n 11588743 M10x1.5x55

Sometimes I can figure out the GM catalog. The pictures are weird for sure.


thank you for a timely, intelligent response. some of these guys...
i don't care what the reason is, if the FSM tells me to not reuse a bolt, i'm not going to re-use it.
esp on one doing a rather critical job, keeping the wheel attached to the vehicle.....
 
I had to edit because I looked at the picture wrong and posted the p/n for the wheel studs. I have a GM catalog I can use at work, just never really use it and it is completely different from Ford and Mazda.

Pet peeve of mine when a part has required replacement hardware and you have to buy it separate. Volvo hubs came with new bolts. The rotors came with new Caliper bracket bolts and mounting bolts. With Ford you have to buy all the hardware on its own and usually in minimum quantities that the customer will never use all of.
 
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well, you confirmed which ones to order. earlier today, I went to the page for the MOOG wheel hub, and in it's specifications, it listed the bolt as "M10x1.5", with no mention of length, of course, which i told him, and he had found a listing of various bolt p/n's for that car, and only one was a 10mm.
your post confirmed that that was the one.

unfortunately they're like $4/ea(needs 8), plus $10(!) Shipping.

trying to convince him to check the dealer prices on that number, see if it would be any cheaper (dealer costs, but no shipping)
 
BD's P/N included a description M 10x 1.5 x55 Sounds z'actly like E 28 rear axle bolts with an 8 mm allan socket. These will out last your econo box. Why would one time bolts be specced on a wear item?
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
BD's P/N included a description M 10x 1.5 x55 Sounds z'actly like E 28 rear axle bolts with an 8 mm allan socket. These will out last your econo box. Why would one time bolts be specced on a wear item?


Usually if they are given a torque to yield spec then they are not supposed to be re-used.
 
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