What do I do about this parking brake cable?

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Hello,

I'm trying to fix my parking brake which hardly works anymore and went under the ashtray to find very uneven brake lines. 2003 Jetta 2.0L.

https://i.imgur.com/i6k7oEb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OoLV37A.jpg

I imagine tightening the nut here won't help, and I will need to adjust something on the caliper.

Does it look like my right brake is too loose and I need to adjust that at the caliper?

Thank you
 
What happens when you pull up on the handle? Are the cables free at the rear brakes? Your car is of an age where lack of use freezes things.
 
I have done so many of these I cant remember how many, there is only one way to fix them properly so the brake works as it should.
First, replace the rear calipers, pads and rotors. All sorts of strange things happen with these calipers as they age from seizing of the e brake to the piston retracting on its own with the brake applied.
Rock Auto now carries Raybestos new optical calipers they are brand new with limited lifetime warranty not remans, you need left rear FRC11078N and right rear FRC11077N.
The BECK/ARNLEY 0832751Z are Zimmerman rotors and one of the best on this car an alternative that is also good is the PAGID 355105412 Pads should be PAGID 355018111

Get new cables clips, holders and tubes from VW only, do not go aftermarket for these parts, you might as well use the money for wipe paper. Don't forget the 2 tubes and rubber seal.
These can be a PITA to bleed but after bleeding you have to operate the hand brake quite a few times for the piston to find its correct spot before final adjustment of the nut.
 
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
The calipers are nonadjustable. Your cable is most likely stretched and needs replacement.


Is there anything I can do to temporarily tighten them?
 
Brake cables are cheap. But in my car you can add some washers where it can be adjusted (by an adjustment nut) under the arm rest/ center console. I'm pretty sure you can do the same thing.
 
One caliper is presently mechanically frozen, which is why your divider thing is off center. Might as well fix it right like Trav says.

Pluck the cables like guitar strings. You'll get some uggas on the cable that goes to a working brake mechanism and have a very taut or very loose cable on the other side.

If you want to cheap out find out how and where the cable comes in at your calipers and try to free up whatever's jammed. Ball peen hammer, vise grips, whatever, you'll know if you get it and you'll know if you break it.

And if you're not good at brakes you should see a shop.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I have done so many of these I cant remember how many, there is only one way to fix them properly so the brake works as it should.
First, replace the rear calipers, pads and rotors. All sorts of strange things happen with these calipers as they age from seizing of the e brake to the piston retracting on its own with the brake applied.
Rock Auto now carries Raybestos new optical calipers they are brand new with limited lifetime warranty not remans, you need left rear FRC11078N and right rear FRC11077N.
The BECK/ARNLEY 0832751Z are Zimmerman rotors and one of the best on this car an alternative that is also good is the PAGID 355105412 Pads should be PAGID 355018111

Get new cables clips, holders and tubes from VW only, do not go aftermarket for these parts, you might as well use the money for wipe paper. Don't forget the 2 tubes and rubber seal.
These can be a PITA to bleed but after bleeding you have to operate the hand brake quite a few times for the piston to find its correct spot before final adjustment of the nut.



Yikes, that's going to be pricey. My car has 215k miles and I'm on a budget. While not being optimal, you don't think I could get by just purchasing some doorman cables from rock auto and changing those by themselves?
 
Dorman is a no go, imo. They make like one thing I would consider buying and its a stamped piece of steel transmission pan.

Everything Ive bought from them that was slightly complex like oil cooler hoses and control arms, started showing signs of distress after a year of service.
Im pretty sure they are just made for getting a car by until you trade it in.
 
Originally Posted By: llmercll

Yikes, that's going to be pricey. My car has 215k miles and I'm on a budget. While not being optimal, you don't think I could get by just purchasing some doorman cables from rock auto and changing those by themselves?


The problem with aftermarket cables is they are much lighter than OE which tend to stretch but the major problem is rarely fit the thin metal tubes going into the tunnel.
Before doing just cables you need to properly assess the system. Caliper operation, all cable holders and clips in place, are the tubes bent, rusted or damaged?
You may be able to get away with it but I wouldn't count on it.
 
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