dipstick or manual for oil quantity?

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this may be a stupid question but....manual calls for 7 quarts of oil in engine. When I put 7 quarts in, dipstick reads over full. what do we go by, dipstick or manual?

2007 f150 5.4
 
a good bit past. I'll try to take a picture tonight. if it was only a little bit i wouldn't have cared.
 
I have struggled with this since I've been driving. Both Civics are overfull on the dipstick if I go by the manual. The CR-V is not even up to the low mark if I go by the manual. Therefore, I go by the dipstick. I usually start with 1 quart under the manual's recommendation then add until it's at the top mark. With the CR-V (calls for 4.4 quarts) I dump in a 5 quart jug and that gets it close enough to the top to make me happy. So far, the Frontier seems to be right on the money. It calls for 5 & 3/8 quarts and a 5 quart jug and a little top off gets it perfect.
 
Are you checking on level ground with oil at room temperature or cold?
Are you using a smaller filter than OEM which doesn't have the same capacity?

If this all checks out then go by the dipstick and use less than 7qts.
 
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level ground, OEM filter, checked on warm engine after sitting for a few minutes.
 
The Challenger is going to the dealership still for "Courtesy oil changes" I watched them put 7 qt bottles in it since it was the 0w40 stuff. I checked it the next day on the level after it sat and it said overfull, quite a bit really.
I ll check again on the next oil change.
That said it seems like every 4.6 Ford I have had holds more than 6 qts. Seems it takes anywhere from 6.75 qts to 7.0 qts to put it on the full line. I put 7.0 qts in my 02 Lincoln 4.6 for it's whole life. Never used oil or moved on the dipstick. Had over 150,000 miles when I traded it. My 5.4 Fords get 7 qts and come out perfect on the dipstick. Same with my Dodge Ram. It could be the dipstick, it could be your using a bigger oil filter..regardless a 1/2 a qt or more over isn't going to be a game changer
 
FWIW, I've never been able to tell a whole lot of difference in oil level on a hot engine or a stone cold one. I can check while getting gas after a freeway drive and check in the morning after sitting all night and it's the same. This has been true for all my cars. Obviously, ATF is a whole 'nuther animal.
 
Always go by the dipstick. The capacities listed in your owners manual are approximations only.

Directly from your owners manual:

"Note: Do not add oil further than the maximum mark. Oil levels above the maximum mark may cause engine damage."

Under capacities, you'll notice this note:

"*Approximate dry fill capacity. Actual amount may vary during fluid changes."

You're not doing a dry fill during a typical oil change.
 
What you do is this. Say your specification is 7 quarts of oil. Simply add in 6 quarts, check level, and add if necessary until you reach desired level. Do not fill past the max line.
 
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My car takes 4.2 or 4.4, i put in 4 quarts and let the car run, take it around the block and make sure temp is up, then i check level and add till its at full.
 
Use Manual for Service fill with filter not Dry fill capacity.

If you are draining on ramps and not level ground (or slight bias towards drain) all bets are off.

There is no reason why a DS would be more at the engineering requirement for adequate sump fill over the designed capacity given the above caveats.
 
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
My car takes 4.2 or 4.4, i put in 4 quarts and let the car run, take it around the block and make sure temp is up, then i check level and add till its at full.


You're doing the job properly, sir!
 
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i always drain on level ground and replace filter.

i drain from plug, let go until drip all but stops.
replace plug
pull filter
replace filter
fill oil
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Are you checking on level ground with oil at room temperature or cold?
Are you using a smaller filter than OEM which doesn't have the same capacity?

If this all checks out then go by the dipstick and use less than 7qts.


^ This. Had one vehicle, 4 qt sump, that showed low with 4 quarts, made it 4.5 with each change.

The F150 calls for 7.7 quarts, each change it gets 8, which takes it to the top of the normal range on the dipstick.

The thing with this is that the only gauge you have for oil quantity (except for high end cars that show a level) is the dipstick....so once the fresh oil is in that's all you have to go by.
 
Our new Mazda is like this. The dipstick has two holes. The manual says if the level is between the holes, you are okay. But, there is some distance between those holes.

From the manual: “Pull it out again and examine the level. The level is normal if it is between the MIN and MAX marks.
If it is near or below MIN, add enough oil to bring the level to MAX.”

So by reading that sentence, it seems to me that a oil level nearer the Max hole is better and I would agree. Mazda fills their sumps to halfway between the holes which bugged me so I bought one quart and filled it to Max. Besides, I never drive without a quart of oil in the back.

Maybe this was not necessary but I am getting more finicky as I get older.
 
Dipsticks can be wrong, and aren't very precise at the best of times. Manuals can be wrong too, but that usually gets caught within the first few months of production. If there's a disagreement, do some research for your PARTICULAR car. If other people aren't having over-full indications by following the manual, then go with the manual. You may have the wrong dpstick installed from the factory, the dipstick tube may be the wrong length, or the usual tolerances of dipstick tube length, dipstick mark location, and dipstick overall length may just be stacked unfavorably for your vehicle. And besides, for most vehicles it takes a LOT of over-fill to actually make the crank get close enough to the oil pool to cause aeration and foaming problems.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Dipsticks can be wrong, and aren't very precise at the best of times. Manuals can be wrong too, but that usually gets caught within the first few months of production. If there's a disagreement, do some research for your PARTICULAR car. If other people aren't having over-full indications by following the manual, then go with the manual. You may have the wrong dpstick installed from the factory, the dipstick tube may be the wrong length, or the usual tolerances of dipstick tube length, dipstick mark location, and dipstick overall length may just be stacked unfavorably for your vehicle. And besides, for most vehicles it takes a LOT of over-fill to actually make the crank get close enough to the oil pool to cause aeration and foaming problems.



I respect your opinion, but it's important people understand your view is at odds with auto manufactures.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Dipsticks can be wrong, and aren't very precise at the best of times. Manuals can be wrong too, but that usually gets caught within the first few months of production. If there's a disagreement, do some research for your PARTICULAR car. If other people aren't having over-full indications by following the manual, then go with the manual. You may have the wrong dpstick installed from the factory, the dipstick tube may be the wrong length, or the usual tolerances of dipstick tube length, dipstick mark location, and dipstick overall length may just be stacked unfavorably for your vehicle. And besides, for most vehicles it takes a LOT of over-fill to actually make the crank get close enough to the oil pool to cause aeration and foaming problems.



Dipsticks being wrong is a problem on many 5.7L Hemi engines. They have the wrong dipstick installed. I believe my dad's 2013 GC with the 5.7L is one of them. If I put in 7 quarts, it reads right above the "add" line. This is a known problem across the forums.
 
I think it's also true that some dipsticks are more linear in their result than others...and this can sometimes trip up people who are seeing one result when in fact the real result hasn't shown yet. I've had a couple cars like this..

I just familiarize myself with the correct service fill amount from the manual or appropriate source and use that amount as my guide. I'm typically right on the mark using that method with my current vehicle. There have been a couple cars where that result took longer or was more impacted by driving it for a few minutes and rechecking.
 
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