More stuff done to the Camaro......

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Dec 19, 2013
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Fort Worth, Texas
Moog Lower Ball Joints, Lower Control Arm Bushings, Outer Tie Rods.
UMI Sway Bars with Poly end links & mounts, 35mm front, 22mm rear.
AC-Delco reman Rack & pinion.
Royal Purple Max E-Z PS fluid.
Hotchkis Super Grease (Silicone) on all the Poly bushings.
Valvoline #2 for the ball joints & tie rods.

A buddy at a local Firstone let me use their alignment rack.....
.02 degrees total toe.
-.01 degrees Camber (Both)
3.0 degrees Caster (Both)

Drives great & the bigger sways didn't alter the ride quality all that much....Not that it rode like a Cadillac in the first place. Noticeably better cornering!!

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Swapped the Aeromotive LS1 fuel rails for some Holley LS3 fuel rails, The injector angle was a little off using LS1 fuel rails, Also swapped out the natural stainless braided lines for some line that has braided black nylon over braided stainless. Looks better with the black rails in my opinion.

Got rid of the fuel feed into the fuel pressure regulator & the "dead head" on the fuel rails, Fuel now feeds into one rail...Through the cross-over, Through the other rail, Then to the regulator.

Before
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After
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Looks great man. I have aftermarket sway bars. They are awesome.
Plus a bunch of other stuff made a huge difference.
 
I put an Edelbrock strut tie bar on mine that triangulates into the firewall. That significantly improved transient turn-in. But it made the engine a royal pain to work on.

I have about -1 deg. camber dialed into mine. Tire wear is OK. The track time that I put on it balances out the wear.

I put on a 32mm front bar when the original Z28 bar broke in 2015. I thought about changing the rear bar when I did the front, as I thought it might make the car understeer, but decided to try it out on track first. It didn't seem to affect over/understeer balance, and the car cornered flatter. A really good way to mess up the handling of a car is to put on a rear sway bar that is too big. I figured if the bigger front bar made it too understeery, I could balance it out by juggling tire pressures (more in front, or less in rear).
 
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Aeroforce Scan Gauge so I can monitor Transmission Temp. Made the mount plate out of a dial caliper storage case I had laying around. Deleted the "Cubby" that I didn't use.

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Do I spy a Dana 60 lurking back there? Looks great, has plenty of rear axle! Which is a sharp contrast to how they were originally delivered! The 4L80E is also a nice touch, how much stall? Cam and engine specs?
 
Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Looks great man. I have aftermarket sway bars. They are awesome.
Plus a bunch of other stuff made a huge difference.


Thanks Mike, I'd like to see some pictures of your Bird....You can post them on this thread if you want.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I put an Edelbrock strut tie bar on mine that triangulates into the firewall. That significantly improved transient turn-in. But it made the engine a royal pain to work on.

I have about -1 deg. camber dialed into mine. Tire wear is OK. The track time that I put on it balances out the wear.

I put on a 32mm front bar when the original Z28 bar broke in 2015. I thought about changing the rear bar when I did the front, as I thought it might make the car understeer, but decided to try it out on track first. It didn't seem to affect over/understeer balance, and the car cornered flatter. A really good way to mess up the handling of a car is to put on a rear sway bar that is too big. I figured if the bigger front bar made it too understeery, I could balance it out by juggling tire pressures (more in front, or less in rear).


I've read that 4th gens don't need a strut tower brace as the towers are so big....But I value your input on this! Do you think a simple single bar across the strut towers would be OK? Triangulated might interfere with my 4L80E dipstick.
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
I've read that 4th gens don't need a strut tower brace as the towers are so big


That's silly. Metal thickness, composition, and shape are what matter. If sheer size were what mattered, they would be able to build skyscrapers without so many of those pesky girders.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Do I spy a Dana 60 lurking back there? Looks great, has plenty of rear axle! Which is a sharp contrast to how they were originally delivered! The 4L80E is also a nice touch, how much stall? Cam and engine specs?


Yes sir, Strange Dana 60 3.54:1 with a Eaton TrueTrac.

3400rpm 245mm Circle D Billet Cover converter.

Stock L92 6.2L long block freshened with new Insert's & Cam Bearings, LS3 hollow intake valves, Dual BTR springs, Hardened push rods, LS6 oil pump, Hinson C7-R timing chain.
Camshaft specs....
LSA 114
ICL 110
Duration @0.50" 220/230
Lift 579"/.562"
Chassis Dyno.....407 RWHP/444 RWTQ
 
Love that generation F-car. I like the scan gauge job, looks very professional.
 
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
I've read that 4th gens don't need a strut tower brace as the towers are so big


That's silly. Metal thickness, composition, and shape are what matter. If sheer size were what mattered, they would be able to build skyscrapers without so many of those pesky girders.


Shear size wasn't exactly what I meant, They a double walled & pretty strong. But I don't know how much they flex.
The Subframe connectors that I welded in made a big difference in the stiffness & handling.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Love that generation F-car. I like the scan gauge job, looks very professional.


It's OK, Don't care for A-Pillar gauges!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
You planning on taking it to the drag strip at all to see what it runs?


Our local drag strip was closed down & caused the 2nd closest drag strip to become over crowded.
I'll get some times soon though.....Need some Drag Radials! The 245/50/16 BFG Comp 2's aren't cutting it & I have never been good at pedaling a car down the strip.
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
You planning on taking it to the drag strip at all to see what it runs?


Our local drag strip was closed down & caused the 2nd closest drag strip to become over crowded.
I'll get some times soon though.....Need some Drag Radials! The 245/50/16 BFG Comp 2's aren't cutting it & I have never been good at pedaling a car down the strip.


thumbsup2.gif


That makes two of us
lol.gif
I always needed tires to do well. M/T ET Streets were a good performer.
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I put an Edelbrock strut tie bar on mine that triangulates into the firewall. That significantly improved transient turn-in. But it made the engine a royal pain to work on.

I have about -1 deg. camber dialed into mine. Tire wear is OK. The track time that I put on it balances out the wear.

I put on a 32mm front bar when the original Z28 bar broke in 2015. I thought about changing the rear bar when I did the front, as I thought it might make the car understeer, but decided to try it out on track first. It didn't seem to affect over/understeer balance, and the car cornered flatter. A really good way to mess up the handling of a car is to put on a rear sway bar that is too big. I figured if the bigger front bar made it too understeery, I could balance it out by juggling tire pressures (more in front, or less in rear).


I've read that 4th gens don't need a strut tower brace as the towers are so big....But I value your input on this! Do you think a simple single bar across the strut towers would be OK? Triangulated might interfere with my 4L80E dipstick.


I think it would help. But bigger is always better when trying to stiffen the chassis, but bigger tubes interfere with working on the engine. It gets down to how much frustration you're willing to put up with to get a little more speed!
 
Thanks A_Harman, They're cheap enough....Not that it matters compared to the money I've already spent!

Still no progress on replacing your LS1?
 
Sad to say, no. No money. No time.
The LS1 still runs OK for street use, but I have retired the Camaro from track running until the engine is replaced.
 
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