Need to pick your Brains

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Hello Everyone been a while since I have been on the forums here so I am re checking things out, and had some thoughts and needed some advice. Where better to go??

I will try and keep this brief but you know how stories go....especially mine haha.

I own a MK6 VW GTI (2013) I bought new, and have changed the oil every 5k with M1 0w40 for the first 20k miles, then Castrol 0w40 up to now, car has about 50k on it. I was contemplating on selling this cream puff GTI and get something else, then I thought, this car is frickin mint, its paid off, and I KNOW it was taken care of, so instead of making car payments again, I am thinking of beginning to mod this car.

Sadly, due to a back injury I cant do the work myself anymore, but I would have the work done for me. Initially thinking of some ECU tuning, DSG tuning, Intercooler upgrade, you know the basics first then see how it goes.

Now, I was thinking of switching oils when I do this. Stage I tunes for this car run on average 4lbs more boost than stock, Stage 2 8lbs on average. We all know with more boost, comes more heat, more stress. I was thinking of switching over to Redline 5w30. I used this oil in my past Evo's for years and the last Evo I had was making double the factory wheel HP and my UOA's of that car were perfect. Do you folks think this oil switch is a good idea? Or is the Castrol 0w40 good enough? I realize the HTHS is about the same as the Redline oil, but the NOACK rating on the Redline is 6 where as the Castrol we can guess is around 9-10 since it is a 502 approved oil.

I am thinking with the higher boost levels and the tendency for intake valve deposits on these DI motors, having a lower NOACK oil with higher boost might be wise. I would still go with 5k intervals since the car is not driven daily. Actually that 5k miles will probably equal a once a year oil change. I dont drive the car too much these days.

So thoughts on this and what you guys and gals think.


Thanks for your time...


Jeff
 
Looks like Redline meets some VW specs so as long as yours is on there it should be fine. But why bother when Mobil or Castrol is so much cheaper? Mobil still has their $12 rebate through the end of October and at $22.88 at Walmart, that makes it $10.88.

I've always wondering about the thinking of people who do mods. Do you have more than 6 figures in your bank account? I mean it sounds like a fun project, but if you're worried about car payments, then maybe you can't really afford it. I'd just save the money and pay for the next car in cash, especially as it sounds like you don't even drive it that much. Mods generally reduce the value of the car unless you happen to find that one person who was going to do the exact same mods.
 
Leave it bone stock and maintain it like you have been doing and bank the money burning a hole in your pocket.
 
Ok guys I appreciate yoru advice, I may then just keep it stock.

Wolf 359 I do realize the price difference. For sure. I usually get Castrol 0w40 for $22 at Wallyworld. I only was thinking of switching to Redline for the Better NOACK rating really. With DI cars NOACK actually is a big deal, and if I did tune the car and added more boost? The problem would potentially get worse. I dont use M1 any longer, the VW seems to like the Castrol better. Especially at start up on a cold day, you really can tell the difference in the two oils. I ran M1 for the first 2 yrs I had the car, Castrol for the last 3. Castrol is the better choice for this particular car.

Appreciate your time guys.


Jeff
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Ok guys I appreciate yoru advice, I may then just keep it stock.

Wolf 359 I do realize the price difference. For sure. I usually get Castrol 0w40 for $22 at Wallyworld. I only was thinking of switching to Redline for the Better NOACK rating really. With DI cars NOACK actually is a big deal, and if I did tune the car and added more boost? The problem would potentially get worse. I dont use M1 any longer, the VW seems to like the Castrol better. Especially at start up on a cold day, you really can tell the difference in the two oils. I ran M1 for the first 2 yrs I had the car, Castrol for the last 3. Castrol is the better choice for this particular car.

Appreciate your time guys.


Jeff


Wow, that would be amazing, people actually taking advice. All I know is that I was once tempted to do some mods when I was younger, but then never got around to it. Got rid of the car a couple years later so all that money would have been down the drain and I'm happy I didn't do it. Plus now I see people trying to sell modded cars all the time, they're lucky to get back 25-50% of what they put into it, but because it's an extra few thousand over a car that's not modded, it just sits around and doesn't sell til they eventually have to drop it a lot more.

Keep an eye out on the Autozone clearance, got a bunch of Castrol 0w40 and 0w30 over the last couple years at $2/quart.
 
Dude, you went underground?
I would keep it stock or go at most with APR Stage I.
Keep Castrol 0W40. Phillips 66 is doing some witchcraft with Redline. New professional series 5W40 has NOACK 11%!!!
 
EDYVW

How are you my friend!! Yes went underground for a while. You only can take so much of forums for a while, had to give it a break.

I was actually thinking of just doing a Unitronic Stage I ECU and DSG tune and was considering upgrading the factory intercooler. That is all I was really thinking of doing. Stage II would require an aftermarket downpipe and once you do that, you risk not passing emissions. Additionally, the noise. I like how my car sounds now. QUIET. Added HP and TQ is always good. Especially if no other mods are needed. The Intercooler I was thinking of doing anyway because I live in a very very very very warm climate and the OEM intercooler is well, ok at best. So was thinking of the Unitronic Intercooler, or a GOLF R/ S3 OEM intercooler.

Just wanted to make sure the Castrol 0w40 would be up to the task.

So not to jack my own thread here Edyvw what is going on with Redline and Phillips? You caught my attention there...


Thank You all for your input and advice. I do take EVERYONES opinions into consideration
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Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Dude, you went underground?
I would keep it stock or go at most with APR Stage I.
Keep Castrol 0W40. Phillips 66 is doing some witchcraft with Redline. New professional series 5W40 has NOACK 11%!!!

But Redline still has their Performance series. That 5W40 NOACK is 6%
 
Originally Posted By: harrydog
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Dude, you went underground?
I would keep it stock or go at most with APR Stage I.
Keep Castrol 0W40. Phillips 66 is doing some witchcraft with Redline. New professional series 5W40 has NOACK 11%!!!

But Redline still has their Performance series. That 5W40 NOACK is 6%

I know, but:
1. It is very thick 5W40 (granted, 5W30 can be used).
2. Obviously once they sent oils for approval, they could not meet same performance as those that are not approved. That begs the question why approved oils have actually below average performance? Their 5W40 is 11%. Valvoline I use in BMW is 10%, has cst of 13.1 and same HTHS, and is cheaper.
Their diesel professional series is NOWHERE near Mobil1 5W30 ESP performance vise.
 
Yeah in VW's 2.0T at least, Redline 5w30 is all you need. HTHS is right around 3.7 which is where most 502 approved oils sit. Thereabouts.

I was looking at this from a car running more than stock boost levels. Would the Redline 5w30 be a better choice vs. Castrol 0w40 in a modified or "Tuned" 2.0T?

I can get the Castrol cheap, and the car seems to like it, its 502 approved, but warranty is out and IF and its a BIG IF I modify this car with a tune or anything else, would it be worth paying 2x's the price of the Castrol in hopes it will be better for the Motor?

That is the question.


Jeff
 
I just recently switched from Mobil 1 0w40 to Castrol 0w40 in my VW 2.0T and I noticed that it seems to run a bit smoother and is also quieter. I saw a PDS somewhere that said the Castrol NOACK was 8.5%. Another oil to consider might be Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40. I supposedly has a 6.8% NOACK. Not sure of the HTHS on either of those other than they are at least 3.5
 
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Originally Posted By: harrydog
I just recently switched from Mobil 1 0w40 to Castrol 0w40 in my VW 2.0T and I noticed that it seems to run a bit smoother and is also quieter. I saw a PDS somewhere that said the Castrol NOACK was 8.5%. Another oil to consider might be Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40. I supposedly has a 6.8% NOACK. Not sure of the HTHS on either of those other than they are at least 3.5

Castrol has per their bulletin NOACK 9.1%, per Russian web site test 8.9%.
Pennzoil Platinume DOEN NOT have NOACK 6.8%. It had first batch of GTL based Ultra that had also HTHS of 3.88. This 5W40 Platinum is nowhere near performance wise to Ultra that was available for short period of time.
As for Castrol running smoother compare to 0W40, that is common trait.
 
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Yeah in VW's 2.0T at least, Redline 5w30 is all you need. HTHS is right around 3.7 which is where most 502 approved oils sit. Thereabouts.

I was looking at this from a car running more than stock boost levels. Would the Redline 5w30 be a better choice vs. Castrol 0w40 in a modified or "Tuned" 2.0T?

I can get the Castrol cheap, and the car seems to like it, its 502 approved, but warranty is out and IF and its a BIG IF I modify this car with a tune or anything else, would it be worth paying 2x's the price of the Castrol in hopes it will be better for the Motor?

That is the question.


Jeff

Well yes, 5W30 looks like VW502.00 except once Redline actually wanted to get approval their chemistry had to completely change.
Look at their approved oils under professional series. Nothing impressive there, actually average at best.
I would say approved Amsoil looks much better.
 
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I knew the Castrol 0w40 had to be under 10% to be 502 approved. 9.1% is believable, but the question is, Redline is 6% with their 5w30, would that difference of + or - 3% NOACK benefit be worth it?

Now, in theory, anyway to help reduce intake valve deposits would be beneficial right? Less blow by, would equal less deposits? No?

I realize we can go back and forth on this, and cost vs actually benefit is obvious. I mean Redline is $11 per Qt. Where the Castrol is bought for $22 for 5 Qts.

If boost is increased in ECU tune from 12psi Stock PSI to 16psi Tune, Stage I, I think at that time, the lower NOACK maybe better would you agree EDYVW?

Again, we all dont know for sure unless we take the engine apart after thousands of miles of use and actually see, but in Theory.


Or with added boost, the amount of blow by would be minimal even with the boost increase?


Just curious on your thoughts from that perspective.


Jeff
 
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I have a 2013 GLI (ea888 gen 3 engine, so different from your 2013 GTI) and recently flashed my ECU with Unitronic Stage 1+ (tuned for 93 oct fuel). I have no issues with modding cars and think as long as you maintain them well, don't abuse them and do tasteful mods, you'd be fine. My last car (2004 Passat) was also modded (APR Stage 1 tune, Bilstein Sport shocks, H&R Sport springs, rear anti-sway bar, etc.) and was able to remove most of my mods prior to selling, and got back most of that money. I think it depends on what you want to do with the car; and how much money you're looking to spend. For a mint GTI, I'd probably upgrade the tires, maybe lower (don't cheap out) a tad, flash the ECU with a brand that is local to you (APR, Unitronic, etc.) and keep maintaining the way you have been. Even if modded a bit, the cars are reliable transportation if you keep up maintenance. If neglected, they're a little quirkier than most.

Also, I'd keep with Castrol Edge 0w40 even if you flash the ECU; it won't increase the boost or other parameters enough to warrant seeking boutique oils (even though I'm running a mix of Motul 8100 X-Clean 5w30 and Motul 300v 5w40 ;))

Mike
 
Thanks Mike for your input.

This GTI when I bought it new Jan 2013 I told myself I would not mod it. I said that to myself because I just sold my modded Lancer Evo, the day I sold it was making 400 at the crank, dyno corrected to 340whp on 91 pump. I daily drove that Evo 9 MR for 5 yrs. To this day I regret the sale of that car.

The GTI I feel is a good compromise. Its sporty, but livable, fast, but not real noticeable, I like how the suspension is on this car stock. I would not lower it. I have found at least from my track days with my Evo's of past, lowering a car really does not help it. Aesthetically, looks better, but unless you go full blown race build on the suspension, lowering springs and such in many ways do more harm than good.

I like many of us, live in an area where the roads are [censored] too. I scrape on driveways and such now stock, so even if I ran VRM (VW Racing) springs that drop the car 30-40mm's its still more than I would be willing to do. The Pro vs Con's just isn't there. Again aesthetically, I agree would "Look" better.

When I look under the hood of the VW in contrast to my Evo I sold before buying this car, I went from EVO, All Metal under the hood, to VW All Plastic under the hood.

I dont like plastic when modding. I mean this car has Plastic Intercooler, Plastic intercooler plumbing, everywhere boost is its plastic. Heck even the Diverter Valve is Plastic, all of which are potential Boost Leak areas.

fast forward 5 yrs. Well almost 5 yrs of ownership. I am getting the itch for something new, but this car is paid for, has low miles and is in mint condition. From a financial perspective, keeping the VW and putting a little money into it would save me more money than buying or trading to a different car. That is my argument. I'm a car guy its an addiction.

My thoughts were to either A) sell the VW as is, look for a used Evo 9 and work on that, or do basic stuff to the VW and keep my money in the bank.

All I can see myself doing to this VW would be a Stage I or II ECU tune, most likely through Unitronic, why? Because I can do the tunes myself without the need for someone else to do it for me or pulling the ECU out. DSG tune, Intercooler, Charge pipes, and maybe a down pipe (needed for Stage II).

These mods would really change the car all together, then with that added power, I would do most likely a Porsche BBK in front, and maybe a rear sway bar upgrade, and MAYBE, MAYBE Bilstein Shocks with the VRM springs.

All done over time of course, would transform this car completely.

Or.....

Sell it, Get another EVO haha...

Decisions decisions...


Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I knew the Castrol 0w40 had to be under 10% to be 502 approved. 9.1% is believable, but the question is, Redline is 6% with their 5w30, would that difference of + or - 3% NOACK benefit be worth it?

Now, in theory, anyway to help reduce intake valve deposits would be beneficial right? Less blow by, would equal less deposits? No?

I realize we can go back and forth on this, and cost vs actually benefit is obvious. I mean Redline is $11 per Qt. Where the Castrol is bought for $22 for 5 Qts.

If boost is increased in ECU tune from 12psi Stock PSI to 16psi Tune, Stage I, I think at that time, the lower NOACK maybe better would you agree EDYVW?

Again, we all dont know for sure unless we take the engine apart after thousands of miles of use and actually see, but in Theory.


Or with added boost, the amount of blow by would be minimal even with the boost increase?


Just curious on your thoughts from that perspective.


Jeff

That is old series Redline oils. Philips 66 pushed Redline oils to get approvals and it is nothing special:
Redline 5W40 Professional
As for lower NOACK, Castrol has to have below 10% due to MB 229.5. VW 502.00 is nothing special and one of the least stringent requirements.
You will do good with Castrol 0W40 regardless of tune or not tune, or Mobil1 0W40 for that matter.
If you really want low Noack, go with Mobil1 5W30 ESP and change it every 3K or 4K. Do UOA and check how it is holding up. You live in CA and CA has ULSG.
 
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