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#4555961 - 10/27/17 07:22 AM Long Term Storage
artbuc Offline

Registered: 12/02/05
Posts: 1158
Loc: West Chester, PA
Friend bought a second home in Florida where he will live during winter. He will keep one car in New York and one in Florida. He asked me if he should put cars up on jacks. I did not know but a quick google search says it would be a good idea primarily to keep weight off bearings. I would be concerned about letting suspension hang. So, should he put car on jack stands? Should he let wheels hang? Thanks.

#4555995 - 10/27/17 08:20 AM Re: Long Term Storage [Re: artbuc]
Kuato Offline

Registered: 10/23/05
Posts: 7094
Loc: Colorado
Main thing IMO is to not flat spot the tires. Up on jack stands, high enough to take some weight off the wheels but not get to full extension.

More importantly, there should be some fuel stabilizer in the gas tank.
Thick vs Thin test: 15k / 43k miles complete

#4555998 - 10/27/17 08:21 AM Re: Long Term Storage [Re: artbuc]
Alex_V Offline

Registered: 04/10/16
Posts: 1155
Loc: Campbellsville, KY
What kind of car? Ditto on not letting the suspension stay fully extended, but if you can block it up out under the control arms (or whatever it has) I don't think the bearings are going to care much one way or the other but the tires are more likely to stay round. Fill it up with ethanol free gas and time the oil change to be fairly fresh before she's mothballed.
I like Chevy and Valvoline.

'13 Cruze, 1.4T, 112K
'85 GMC C3500, 454, 130K
'82 Mercedes 300CD, OM617 turbo, 167K
'67 Suburban, 350, 331K

#4556035 - 10/27/17 08:59 AM Re: Long Term Storage [Re: artbuc]
fenixguy Offline

Registered: 02/08/17
Posts: 307
Loc: NC
They make tire chocks specifically for preventing flatspotting. I wouldn't be too concerned about the bearings. +1 on filling up with ethanol free gas.
'16 Frontier SV 4x4-PP/Nissan OEM
'08 CR-V EX AWD-Valvoline Syn MaxLife/Fram TG
'01 Civic EX-Valvoline Syn MaxLife/Fram UG
'00 Civic LX-PYB/Fram UG

#4556067 - 10/27/17 09:30 AM Re: Long Term Storage [Re: artbuc]
EdwardC Offline

Registered: 11/14/13
Posts: 1863
Loc: Chicago, IL
If possible, putting the car on stands would be good, not with the suspension at full extension, but somewhere in between. I'd suggest overinflating the tires as well, something like 50 psi. Like the others have said, I would put in some stabilizer in the tank and top it off full, probably connect a battery tender, make sure the vents are in recirculate mode, and maybe block off the exhaust and other vent holes. I might throw down a few mothballs around the car too. Just to nitpick, I might make sure the parking brake is disengaged as well. In the end, I don't think 6 months is a particularly long time, I would bet, other than possible flat spots (that might just round out after a few miles), the cars would work just fine.

#4556202 - 10/27/17 11:40 AM Re: Long Term Storage [Re: artbuc]
SilverSnake Offline

Registered: 05/29/13
Posts: 591
Loc: Florida
Here are my recommendations to prepare car for winter/long term storage. I was in the marine industry for years and the proper winterization of boats was important. Some of my suggestions come from that experience:

1. Change the engine oil and filter prior to storage. Used oil contains chemical contaminants that can cause corrosion to internal engine parts during long periods of storage.

2. Put a fuel stabilizer in your gas tank. I recommend StarTron. It is particularly effective for preserving ethanol fuels up to 2 years. Boats and yachts often sit for long periods of time without use. Never heard of a single fuel related issue for those using StarTron. Actually, I use Startron in all my vehicles year around to prevent fuel problems from occurring.

3. Make sure the gas tank is 95% full when stored (leave some room for expansion when the weather gets warmer). This prevents open space in the tank that can allow condensation to form and run into the fuel under certain atmospheric conditions. A full tank greatly reduces the risk of this occurring. Some people will advise you to empty your gas tank for before storing a vehicle. Empty gas tanks will accumulate condensation and you will have water in the tank over time. I would NEVER advise anyone to store a vehicle with an empty tank UNLESS they were prepared to drain the water out before use. Very hard to do for most cars (and boats).

4. Get an intelligent battery maintainer that will keep the battery charged but automatically regulate the current to prevent overcharging. I use a CTEK Multi US 7002. Very good piece of equipment. I also leave the battery in the car.

5. Check the engine coolant levels. Test the coolant for proper anti-freeze protection levels. If the coolant is bad, flush the system and add new coolant.

6. Inflate the tires to the correct pressure. Use Flatstoppers to prevent flat spots on your tires

7. Chock the back wheels (I use large rubber chocks) to prevent the car from rolling. Release the emergency brake. If left on for long periods, the metallic brake pads can fuse to the rotors.

8. Wash the car and apply a good protective coat of polish.

9. A car cover to keep the dust out is OK as long as it is porous and can breath. Heavy, non-porous covers allow moisture to collect underneath and corrosion can result. This is true for both indoor and outdoor storage under a cover.

10. If you live in a damp area or store the car in a damp area. Put some No-Damp canisters in the interior to absorb any moisture that gets in. If you have a heated garage, this is not necessary.

11. If you have a rodent problem, cover the exhaust pipes to prevent the critters from building a nest inside. Rodents can also chew up wires and get into other places in the car and cause havoc. I recommend mouse/rat traps if the circumstances warrant. Another alternative is to get a garage dwelling tom cat. Your dog cannot help you with a rodent problem.

12. Once you have the car completely prepared for storage, I do not recommend starting it until spring. Boat engines do not get started during storage and they do just fine in the spring. If you feel you must then I would run the car for at least 15 - 20 minutes. If the roads are clear of snow, sand, and salt, then a 20 minute drive would be ideal.

Good luck!!

2016 Charger, 6.4L-485 HP (PUP 0W-40)
2017 BMW 330i, 2L-248 HP (BMW 0W-20)
2018 Jeep GC, 5.7L-360 HP (PUP 5W-20)
2008 20KW Generac (Amsoil 10W-30/30)

#4556205 - 10/27/17 11:45 AM Re: Long Term Storage [Re: artbuc]
69GTX Offline

Registered: 09/23/15
Posts: 3815
Loc: Connecticut
For only 6 months I wouldn't do anything with the suspension for tires. Ditto to the fuel stabilizer, tires inflated to max pressure, anti-rodent devices, battery tender and/or removal etc. There are numerous detailed threads on line concerning this topic.

2001 Lincoln Cont 4.6L DOHC/ 39K mi / QS HM 5w30 / FUG XG2
1999 Camaro SS M6 /19K /Mobil 1 0w40 /Fram UG /GM MTL-ATF
1969 Ply GTX/RRs

#4556402 - 10/27/17 03:52 PM Re: Long Term Storage [Re: artbuc]
Donald Offline

Registered: 03/21/04
Posts: 20457
Loc: Upstate NY
You could volunteer to drive it once a month. To work or for a 50 mile trip.

That would be best.

Otherwise BatteryMinder on battery and STARTRON stabilizer in the gas.

For storage in FL in summer, the better BatteryMinder that has hot temp compensation and Startron in gas.
2015 Subaru Forester 2.5 engine/CVT
2015 Ford F250 w/Powerstroke
2016 Subaru Crosstrek CVT (wife's)