Suctioned my Lawn Boy engine oil

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I suctioned the engine oil in my B&S LV195EA Lawn Boy to change the oil. Just wasn't feeling the usual messy process. Got out almost exactly engine capacity (20 oz. out of 21). Was wondering if there might be some potential pitfall I might be overlooking here, or if I'm fine.

My knowledge of OPE engine's internals are limited.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I suctioned the engine oil in my B&S LV195EA Lawn Boy


Do you suction the oil out of your Lincoln Charger as well? How about your Maserati Ram?
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Was wondering if there might be some potential pitfall I might be overlooking here, or if I'm fine.


The mower is fine. Its a $40 Tecumseh engine that's 10 to 20 years old at this point. ANY oil change is better than they normally get.
 
Briggs & Stratton engines, kept full of oil - - - typically last a very, very, very long time - even if the oil is never changed.
 
I just tip my mowers on their side and drain the oil out of the fill hole.
 
Or just wait till it burns most of the oil and then fill with new oil. Oops.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I suctioned the engine oil in my B&S LV195EA Lawn Boy to change the oil. Just wasn't feeling the usual messy process. Got out almost exactly engine capacity (20 oz. out of 21). Was wondering if there might be some potential pitfall I might be overlooking here, or if I'm fine.

My knowledge of OPE engine's internals are limited.


I just bought the little LiquiVac and only got 14 oz out, what did you use and how long did you let it warm up prior?
 
I just support front right wheel with a log.....so that all the used oil collects diagonaly in the rear left corner of the engine....just below the filling plug

Similar to that....

troy-bilt-lawn-mower-with-briggs-and-stratton-engine.jpg


And then I use this "synringe"....

106118.jpg
 
I was just gifted this lawnmower because I haven't been able to get a landscaper since the hurricane. My yard was looking like an NVA hideout. Part of my ancestry are farmers and vineyard owner/operators, so I just decided to stop being a wuss.

I hadn't thought to tip the lawnmower a bit to the side to pool the oil toward the tube. Whatever the heck oil was in there was straight in the middle of safe range on the dipstick, and I got almost the rated capacity of 21 ounces out. Filling it with 21 ounces got the level right toward the upper band of the safe range, so I said forget it.

I did get a look under, and corrosion has done it's part, but not badly. Almost all still factory paint. When I was done, I just reached my gloved hand under and cleaned out everything I could until I felt nothing significant.

I'm going to whip out my grinder and sharpen the blade, so when I remove the blade, I'll get a good look at the success of my efforts.

Because of the size of my property, I'm looking at riding mowers, but I honestly know absolutely nothing about them, brands, features, preferences, etc., so I'm taking my time. I just know at this point that I like maintaining my own property, and I'm done with landscapers.

As with everything, I'm going to start cheap and figure out what I really want. HFT electric branch shredder, yard vacuum mulcher, trimmer, and a cheap Craigslist edger are next. Already bought an HFT electric pole saw off of a neighbor for $20.

I used my HFT pump oil extractor. I warmed it up by cutting an A-Load of lawn, and immediately stuck the tube in and sucked it out. I did notice that I had to turn the tube so that it curves toward the other side of the engine in order to get the last bit out.

New fill is Schaeffer's 7000 Supreme 20w-50. I have more bottles of that than a dumpster has roaches, so I'm not sweating throwing the good stuff at it. Overkill for sure, but it won't hurt anything.
 
Quote:
Because of the size of my property, I'm looking at riding mowers, but I honestly know absolutely nothing about them,


I'm in the same boat.
Think used. A good quality used rider is as good or better than
a cheap new one IMHO. Buy in the fall when prices drop significantly.
Of course condition and maintenance are key.
Research, research, research.

My 2¢
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Quote:
Because of the size of my property, I'm looking at riding mowers, but I honestly know absolutely nothing about them,


I'm in the same boat.
Think used. A good quality used rider is as good or better than
a cheap new one IMHO. Buy in the fall when prices drop significantly.
Of course condition and maintenance are key.
Research, research, research.

My 2¢


Anything with a Honda, Kawasaki, Kubota, Vanguard or any other Japanese built engine is a good place to start. Most transaxles are built by just a handful of manufacturers. If the machine has a Japanese engine, chances are it will be a good machine. From my experience, the engines outlast the transaxles. The reason for that, more often than not, is that the cooling fan for the transaxle is clogged with dried grass and not doing it's job.

My neighbor and I had exactly the same Kawasaki powered Husqvarna machine bought at the same time (2002). His machine cut one large half acre lawn. My machine cut three half acre lawns. Several times a season I'd get out the leaf blower/air compressor and thoroughly blow out grass clipping from the transaxle fan area. He did oil changes and greased wheels but never blew out the grass clippings. In 2012, his transaxle cooked itself and he had to replace it.

I no longer have the mower but one of my other neighbors owns it now and it's still running strong. All pretty much original other than air/oil filters, new blades and drive belt.

I presently own a Honda powered Craftsman mower that's twelve years old and it cuts three similar sized lots out our camp. It gets the same treatment and is also holding up quite well.

If it's got a Japanese engine, chances are you'll have a decent machine, used or not.
 
I use a Mityvac type suction pump to change the oil in all of my OPE. Clean, fast and easy. Never had any engine problems due to changing oil this way.
 
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