Nissan 5.6 Castrol GTX vs RP HPS 5 30

[thastinger]

This is the Wife's Armada. Right column is the GTX sample and most recent was the HPS sample. GTX run had 4600 miles on it and the HPS run had 8800 on it. What are your suggestions from folks who have more experience looking at these reports? Looks to me like I could run the GTX out to maybe 6K and I could take the HPS to 9K. They called out the AL but it isn't nearly as high as I've seen in UOA of other engine manufacturers. Since the wear metals weren't really higher with the HPS but it was a significantly longer run, it seems I could run that to 9K and be fine...or do you guys recommend a different oil? 7500 miles is the RCI for this motor but I don't see being able to get there with conventional motor oils.
Both runs were with a fram tough guard filter. It has a Mobil 1 filter on it for this run because I found a local place to get them finally.

 

[dustyroads]

The first thing that I noticed was the fuel in the GTX report. Was there a problem that you have since fixed...or was it your sampling technique? I think your own assessments are fair, although if you wanted to extend that RP oci, it would have been ok to 10k miles. I'm not going to suggest any particular oils, as that's for you to decide based on your own information and preference.

Other than the fuel dilution on the first one, they look good. The aluminum is higher than the averages, but nothing scary. Maybe temporary or a signature of your engine. Something to keep watch of, but don't lose any sleep over it. The silicon is a little bit high so maybe check things over with the intake plumbing to make sure it's all sealed. Maybe a different air filter brand would help. If 7500 is the recommended oci, then you can say that you got all of that and then some. There are others here that can offer better advice or opinions.

Welcome to BITOG!

 

[thastinger]

Thanks for the input. I think I took the GTX sample after a short trip of 4 or so miles but it wasn't a stone cold sample. I think the HPS sample was after the wife got home from work, which is about a 15 mile trip. They called it out but it was way below what they list as acceptable, which I sometimes don't understand why they call some things out, sometimes it seems as if they just need to "say something" on the report.

 

[OVERKILL]

On a PPM per mile basis everything save aluminum is nary identical. Aluminum has essentially halved, but we are looking at such small concentrations that I wouldn't worry about it, it could just be lab error.

Based on TBN, I'd keep it around the 9K mark with this oil to maintain a safety margin.

Your report basically indicates that you can run HPS longer than GTX, that's about it. Nothing else really stands out.

 

[FZ1]

The GTX was about as good as the RP. Why don't you go to your local WM and try some M1 EP or Castrol Edge syn. RP looks overpriced.

 

[thastinger]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
The GTX was about as good as the RP. Why don't you go to your local WM and try some M1 EP or Castrol Edge syn. RP looks overpriced.


Which flavor of M1? At my local WM today there was, speaking in full syn only, the standard grey M1, then there was truck/suv, then there was EP, then there was "yearly service". Which one should I try? I order RP HPS by the 5 gal pale because I use it in my jet skies and drag bikes so it comes to 6.78/qt shipped to my house. I'm certainly open to trying something else in wife's truck that can get me to 10K OCIs safely..although the HPS may have done that based on the TBN.

 

[KL31]

The GTX looked low in viscosity, unless you used a 5W20 that time? Might be worth using a 0W40 just to see if that helps keep viscosity at desired levels. People get all funny about using a higher viscosity but the 0W40 are mostly on the thinner side. If your engine beats on the oil a bit, which it seems to do, the 0W40 will turn into a 30 grade and you will be where you want. Might reduce wear metals potentially, worth a shot for sure considering the RP price. Try castrol edge 0W40 if you can get it cheap. M1 is good too. I'd use the cheaper of the two just because of price as they're similar in most respects.

 

[CT8]

Castrol or Mobil1 0W-40 oil if you are interested in pushing the oil change intervals.

 

[thastinger]

I hadn't even considered a 0-40 but that sounds like a good idea. The motor specs a 5-30 and the RP seemed to hold vis pretty well but I would really like to get to a 10K OCI on this truck with oils I can buy a walmart.

 

[andrewp1998]

whhere did you buy it?

Thanks

 

[andrewp1998]

whhere did you buy it?

Thanks

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: thastinger
I hadn't even considered a 0-40 but that sounds like a good idea. The motor specs a 5-30 and the RP seemed to hold vis pretty well but I would really like to get to a 10K OCI on this truck with oils I can buy a walmart.

An E6 5w-30 HDEO could probably do it, but I can't say what its availability would be like at Walmart. Our Walmarts are hit and miss with M1 0w-40, let alone anything really different, lately.

 

[alarmguy]

Ditch the RP and go with the Castrol if your deciding between the two.
The wear numbers are and would be better with the Castrol then the RP at 8800 miles.

Not sure the purpose of extending OCI but if you just change on time with the Castrol your engine will be all the better.

 

[thastinger]

Originally Posted By: alarmguy
Ditch the RP and go with the Castrol if your deciding between the two.
The wear numbers are and would be better with the Castrol then the RP at 8800 miles.

Not sure the purpose of extending OCI but if you just change on time with the Castrol your engine will be all the better.


What is your logic to say the wear numbers would have been the same if I had ran the GTX to 9K? I don't see this in the report, I think they would have been twice as much since they are similar now and the HPS was ran for twice as many miles.

 

[alarmguy]

The way I see it, the GTX is a superior oil. Id almost bet if you ran the GTX out to 9000 miles you will see all the numbers lower then with what you have with the RP.

Its really all there in the report. Look at the iron in the RP compared to the GTX, now double the mileage on the GTX and only increase the iron by about 50% or so and you will come out with 10 or 11 instead of 13 because when you double mileage on a UOA the metals do not double.
So to answer your question and if you want a true answer, why not run the GTX the same mileage as the RP and I am willing to bet the GTX will look better.

But then again, you can jsut change oil as per the owners manual and your engine will be better off with the GTX for sure.
Also Dustyrods mentioned the fuel, he is right, you need to make sure the oil is full operating temperature for UOAs = burning hot. I suspect you did not withthe GTX as it is not the oils fault it has fuel in it skewing the GTX test results more negative but still the same and better then the RP you are comparing when it comes to IRON.

 

[thastinger]

Al was the metal I was really looking at, I concur that all other metals are mile per mile about the same.

This weekend I drained the M1 Euro 0-40 that I ran to 9500 miles, so I'll see what those results are. I refilled with GTX and will run that to 5K while seeing what the M1 results are.