Caring for unfinished wood furniture

[MarkC]

Almost all of my furniture is unfinished wood, apparently yellow pine or something.
Some of the Ikea stuff is coated with some clear finish but I have a lot of unfinished stuff. I use lemon oil on my big kotatsu, which is red oak, and was originally coated with teak or tung or linseed or some kind of oil.
I notice that the pine stuff looks dry. When I use lemon oil on this, it gives a smooth, slightly darker appearance, but doesn't seem to stay that way for long.
I'm wondering
A) If I should stain it to make it closer in shade to the kotatsu, and if so, what to use.
B) what else to use other than lemon oil(or some other oil) to protect it.
I don't like shiny wood laquer or anything.

 

[Amkeer]

What do you mean by lemon oil? Explain to me exactly what product you are using now on the wood that you think is unfinished and dry.

 

[MarkC]

What I have right now is Old English Lemon oil.

 

[TheTanSedan]

Ask IKEA, for starters. I have several products for wood, but it is dependent on type, finish and desired look.

 

[MarkC]

Not really worried about the IKEA stuff, it's the other, unfinished stuff, made of pine that I'm concerned about.
Contrary to popular opinion, Seattle actually has fairly low humidity when it's not raining.

 

[Pablo]

Mark - Clean it, sand it (super fine) and hand rub in some tung oil.....check the grades available. You don't want the thick glossy varnish kind.

Check out some walnut oil products,too.

 

[Papa Bear]

Tung oil .... is that like saliva ??

P.B.

 

[Bob Woods]

Tung oil comes from the seeds of several species of Aleurites, primarily Aleurites fordii, a deciduous shade tree native to China. It belongs to the Euphorbia Family (Euphorbiaceae) along with the candlenut tree (A. molucanna), another species with seeds rich in unsaturated oils. For centuries tung oil has been used for paints and waterproof coatings, and as a component of caulk and mortar. It is an ingredient in "India ink" and is commonly used for a lustrous finish on wood. In fact, the "teak oil" sold for fine furniture is usually refined tung oil. Some woodworkers consider tung oil to be one of the best natural finishes for wood.

I prefer a 50/50 mixture of turpertine and linseed oil, apply it rub dry with clean cloth, repete once or twice a year. Creates a water proof finish. It is called bartenders finish.

 

[Amkeer]

You can use Velvit Oil wiped on with a rag on the surface that is sanded to 320 grit. I work to successive grits from 100 up to 320. (100,120,180,220,320). I use a random orbit sander on all grades. Use the hand sand to flats then orbit. You will then vacuum surface clean. Wipe on the Velvit Oil with a saturated rag. Keep applying until no surfaces are dry (quits soaking in). You then get 400 grit wet and dry and sand with the grain with the oil as a lubricant. Use the oil, sawdust mixture as a slurry to fill in tiny voids as you sand the wet mixture in. Once its completely sanded with this system allow to dry about 15-30 minutes then buff off with clean rag. Allow the piece to sit at least 24 hours to dry then any additional DRY, DRY buffing can be done. DO NOT APPLY ANY WAX OR ADDITIONAL WHATEVERS to this system.

I have been using that for my oil finishes for years, especially butcher block countertops that I build in my kitchens. Works great!

That will be $500 cash only!

Actually don't have to worry cause the majority won't do what I tell them and those that do will not do it right and screw it up.

Tung oil is a reduced polyurethane, varnish. You can buy the cheapest can of varnish or urethane and reduce it 50% and this will be a wipe on. Just remember the solvents flash consistently so you will need to keep reducing the finish as used. I don't subscribe to tung oil so I don't recommend it only the natural Velvit Oil.

Bob,

There is no such thing as a "waterproof finish". Wood continually absorbs and loses moisture content regardless of finish applied. Finishes slow the rate of absorbtion. Just wanted to make sure that was clear. When I build my pieces I take into account movement of wood as part of the design process. It always better to plan for expansion than contraction.

Link to velvit oil:
http://www.velvitproducts.com/products/VelvitOil.html


IMPORTANT!!!! Dispose of used rags only after soaking in water can using the appropriate disposal in your area. Used rags will spontaneous combust if not properly disposed of. The recipe I gave you is the method I have used for years with excellent results based on careful application procedures. Your results may vary since you are not me and I am not you. You have been warned!

 

[Al]

quote:

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Originally posted by Amkeer:
I have used for years with excellent results based on careful application procedures.

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One of the reasons why I love this board. Thanks for the info.

 

[Pablo]

Amkeer wrote:

quote:

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Tung oil is a reduced polyurethane, varnish.

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So there is no such thing as real tung oil? Please explain.

 

[XS650]

quote:

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Originally posted by Pablo:
Amkeer wrote:

quote:

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Tung oil is a reduced polyurethane, varnish.

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So there is no such thing as real tung oil? Please explain.

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Tung oil exists and has existed as a wood finish for hundreds of years. Unfortunately it's name is getting stuck on some fairly mundane wiping varnishes.

 

[Pablo]

I will say it's been some years since I bought any. I'll be on the look-out next time. However, please note my words used above. My brain must have been on to something.

Probably the #1 seller (Lowe's, HD, etc):

http://www.minwax.com/products/specialty/tung-oil.cfm

Are these fake?

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

 

[1sttruck]

Modern synthetic finishes can be very durable, look at bowling alleys, gyms, etc., but the downside is that they'll show every scratch and they're often hard to refinish, so a 10 yr old fancy finish looks it. An ole timey 'in the wood' finish takes more work to keep up but will tend to look as good as the last time it was refnished, which could easily be an hour ago :^)

The classic is rubbed linseed oil, as on fine English rifles and shotguns, where one technique seemed to be 'once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year'. That's why field grade still started at $10k :^)

Linseed oil isn't as durable as other finishes, where the next common upgrade would be tung oil. It can darken a lot depending upon the oil. Next in protection would be a thinned marine varnish, maybe using a 'sanded in' finish to rapidly fill pores.

You can also use wax for wood that won't see hard use, but it will often prevent the use of other finishes.

 

[simple_gifts]

Wow, Bob Woods is the tung oil guy......

 

[Amkeer]

Tung oil, there real is no real tung oil out there just cheapie imitators of the name. Like I said you can make your own variety and save a few bucks. The down side is it yellows big time from the use of "long oils". I prefer the velvit it uses more complex, natural ingredients and less yellowing.

Unfortunately any finishes from the convenience stores like home cheapo, blowes will just not cut it. You can buy there cheap stuff and modify it for stuff that is on the the low end of the spectrum, but then again if you are to do it why not do it right the first time.

 

[Amkeer]

Pabs,

Your links covered the difference between the imitators and the real stuff.

 

[Bob Woods]

Bob,
There is no such thing as a "waterproof finish".

I can leave iced tea glasses and cold cans of beer on it and I don't get that white ring, spill water and it doesn't leave a water mark. Its as close to water proof as I need.