How to Clean Mild-Moderately Dirty Wheels

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This came up because I found out a coworker was using the same wash mitt he uses for his wheels to wash the finish on the car. Big no-no when we consider what brake dust is composed of and all of the water, sand, dirt, gravel, and other abrasive things the tire and wheel see that don't necessarily make it on to the finish. I took a couple photos to help him out and then I figured, what the heck, I'll make a thread here. This won't be a revelation for many of the regular viewers but hopefully it will help some folks.

Preface: this is to clean a mild to moderately dirty wheel. If there were severe brake dust, etc. we'd break out the Sonax Full Effect and do a couple things differently (maybe even remove the wheel if it was super bad).

Here's everything you will see me use: A bucket of wash water (Meguiar's D111 and a grit guard), various brushes (Scrub brush from Lowes**, Speedmaster wheel brush, Autozone mitt**, Clean Wheel Lug Nut Brush), The Absorber chamois, Adam's Tire shine & foam applicator. Also note that other than the obvious things, the mitt and chamois I use for this are only used on wheels, door jambs, or the engine bay. The goal is to keep things used on parts of the car that typically have more concentrated or abrasive dirt from being used on the finish.
**No need to get fancy for these items to use on the wheels
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1. Scrub the tire and wheel face with the scrub brush to loosen any big dirt. This will also cover a lot of surface area with minimal effort.
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2. Clean the barrel with the wheel brush making sure to agitate both back and forth and side to side (note the dirty suds dripping out).
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3. Clean the sides of the spokes and any concave areas with the [dedicated] wash mitt.
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4. Clean the inner fender liner (this can contribute to the perception of a very clean car). I also like to do the rotor hat for the same reason.
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5. Use the lug nut brush to clean around the lugs, the valve stem, and any severely concave areas (I learned this after seeing little spots I missed in inside corners at the base of the spokes the next day).
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6. Rinse the inner fender and wheel with a moderately hard stream of water. I also like to stick the nozzle in above/behind the rotor to rinse the suspension components and dust shield as they accumulate dirt that can drip onto the wheel making the next cleaning harder.
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(This is where I wash the car, including blowing off excess water with the leaf blower; the following steps come after that's done)


7. Lately I've been giving the wheel a quick shot of Meguiar's D156 detail spray, just because. From there I immediately dry any extra water on the surface with my [dedicated] chamois.
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8. Apply tire shine. I strongly prefer using an applicator to control the application and avoid mess/excess. After the shine is applied I take a dirty microfiber and go around the rim/lip of the wheel in case the applicator deposited some dirty product on the wheel edge.
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9. Admire your work!
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I know others have their own techniques so keep doing whatever works best for you, but that's how I do it in case it helps anyone. At a minimum, keep a dedicated wheel mitt around!
 
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Looks good! I recently used the Autogeek Friday 13th sale to pick up those $40 wheel brushes. I really need some proper brushes that can get between the barrel and the brake assembly.
 
Thanks! If I had to I could leave out the tire shine and make do without the lug nut brush but, after having one, the Speedmaster wheel brush is something I'd never be without. Enjoy your new brushes and note they can be used for door jambs and they work great in the engine bay, too.
 
I very much approve of cleaning the inside of the rear fenders. I've noticed that many vehicles (half ton trucks especially) rust out there. Preventable in my opinion. But maybe not if you only roll through a car wash or strictly use only a wand wash.

I wash that area at the same time as I'm hosing off the underside, hosing out the under-body clean outs, etc. It's amazing what c**p comes out of there. I use a pail, brushes and cloths whenever possible.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
You're going to have to show me on my 03 4Runner if I'm going to believe your system works.

Nice job.

Uh-oh...I know how some people use their 4Runners. Are you setting me up for wheel removal?
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
I go to the car wash.


Unless there is a guy at the car wash who does the same thing as the OP, your wheels really aren't clean.
 
After all that great work, you want to apply a long lasting sealant. Ideally after claying.

To clean wheels, I use a pressure washer followed up by a dedicated wash mitt. Very little effort required on waxed / sealed wheels.

I could spend a little more time and effort on the lug nut area but maybe I'll do that area properly next time I take the tires off.

After washing, I also pressure wash the wash mitts.
 
Looks good. Agree 100% on dedicated stuff. I'm very careful to have dedicated mitts for upper half and lower half of the car, and generally just use a tire brush plus wheel woolies for the wheels. Works great.

Recently Ive been using meguiars waterless wash and wax spray over wet wheels to lift dirt and leave some protection. Works well so far!
 
Looks great! Glad to see there are folks out there that like to do a job right. Very nice work.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
After all that great work, you want to apply a long lasting sealant. Ideally after claying.

...

After washing, I also pressure wash the wash mitts.

I removed the wheels and applied Menzerna Power Lock right after I got the car. That's about 10 months ago, though. Maybe before the winter slop starts I'll do it again.

Good call washing the mitts after everything is done.
 
Originally Posted By: Carmudgeon
8a) Index the center cap so that the Roundel is properly aligned with the M badge.

wink.gif


HAHA that was on my mind, believe me! I lined them up when I had the wheels off but they moved; kind of surprising because they snap in kind of firmly.
 
Originally Posted By: gofast182
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
You're going to have to show me on my 03 4Runner if I'm going to believe your system works.

Nice job.

Uh-oh...I know how some people use their 4Runners. Are you setting me up for wheel removal?
grin.gif



Let's just say that after some desert driving your system will receive a more adventuresome test.
 
One of the downsides of performance brake pads is not just dust … but a high staining dust.
If dealing with a bad case of this … try some baby oil before reaching for the soap …
 
Interesting. I may try that one day if I get the opportunity. I find that even dust from high-performance brakes, including the racing brakes on my S2000, comes off easily if it's done in a timely manner after the buildup happens. Letting it sit is what allows it to bond to the wheel surface and really become a devil to remove.
 
What I have noticed from long ago is that most automakers have [censored] mud shields made out of plastic with a hollow opening. This opening is a cup that fills up with water and debris and it can start the rust process really quick. Check yours out and give that thing a good flush or dig it out. Another suggestion would be to remove them. Most of them are purely decorative and don't do the job that was intended for them.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Recently Ive been using meguiars waterless wash and wax spray over wet wheels to lift dirt and leave some protection. Works well so far!


I think the Megs is about $10 per bottle. You can guy some Ultima waterless wash concentrate on Autogeek for $21 which makes 32 bottles of Waterless wash. It also contains some sealant in it. Plus can be used as clay lube, a rinsless wash, detailer etc. I don't use it as a rinseless since I'd have to use an ounce of product per wash which will deplete the bottle quickly. Otherwise it will last a ling time.

I've used the Megs product before and prefer the Ultima. Plus Ultima came out with a new Acrylic version but haven't tried it yet.

Link
 
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