Have you ever used a motor flush? Which one?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
8,140
Location
Michigan
I have many times but it was a long time ago before I started using Syn oil in my vehicles.
I used Gunk Motor Flush.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
The old fashioned ones are nothing but kerosene. Brand doesn't matter.


Have you ever used one?
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
The old fashioned ones are nothing but kerosene. Brand doesn't matter.

Have you ever used one?

What would that have to do with anything? Are they just kerosene?
 
My Focus had one done at 20k miles before I got it... I guess the previous owner went over a year before getting an oil change(she didn't drive very much) at jiffy lube and was talked into it! I also found ATF in the transmission so all Jiffy Lube was doing was costing her money and actually shortening the life of the car...
I never have or will use a motor flush myself.
 
I used Gunk as well back in the 90's. I didn't perform a teardown after, but the stick was jet black, and there was weird stuff in the pan. Not chunks, what looked like mud, sand, chocolate syrup. Then I tried it again. was much cleaner, oil consumption was cut in half. So IMO it works on poorly maintained engines.
 
I've used both the Amsoil engine flush and Kreen (as a piston soak) in my '02 Toyota Camry's 2AZ-FE engine. The engine has 264K miles on it, and it began using a quart of oil every 900-1200 miles, depending on viscosity starting at about 230K. I originally thought that I simply have the sticking rings/too-small return holes problem that is fairly common to these engines, and perhaps I do, but neither of these products, used as directed, resulted in any obvious "de-gunking" of the engine (rings, lands, or anywhere else) and has made no noticeable impact on the oil consumption. Perhaps this lack of efficacy of the engine flush products should've been expected; the car has had a pretty steady diet of good full-synthetic oil for the past 8 years/150K miles. I've had a leak-down compression test done on the engine by my usual independent mechanics' shop, and the engine has compression in all cylinders within 5% of a new spec, so I'm thinking now that the oil is coming in through worn valve guides, rather than past stuck or worn piston rings.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: khittner
I've used both the Amsoil engine flush and Kreen (as a piston soak) in my '02 Toyota Camry's 2AZ-FE engine. The engine has 264K miles on it, and it began using a quart of oil every 900-1200 miles, depending on viscosity starting at about 230K. I originally thought that I simply have the sticking rings/too-small return holes problem that is fairly common to these engines, and perhaps I do, but neither of these products, used as directed, resulted in any obvious "de-gunking" of the engine (rings, lands, or anywhere else) and has made no noticeable impact on the oil consumption. I've had a leak-down compression test done on the engine by my usual independent mechanics' shop, and the engine has compression in all cylinders within 5% of a new spec, so I'm thinking now that the oil is coming in through the valve guides, rather than past stuck or worn piston rings.

I'm quite familiar with that year 2AZ-FE. My 02 Camry lasted to 354k burning oil. IMO its a little of both. Clogged piston oil return holes, leaking valve seals. Nothing will unclog those holes short of a teardown and a drill. So if its just clogged piston oil return holes, a thicker oil will help. If its valve seals, you will definitely benefit from a HM oil with conditioners/swellers. You will see blue smoke at startup after sitting overnight, or for a couple days. Have someone start your car so you can watch the tailpipe. Very important on these engines, change the coolant. often. Its directly related to oil related issues (hot spots frying oil) , and potentially fatal flaw where the head bolts could randomly separate from the aluminum block. Best luck with oil I had was M1 10w30. Great cleaner, did a fantastic job with the valve seals.
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
The old fashioned ones are nothing but kerosene. Brand doesn't matter.


Have you ever used one?


Yes, on an engine I rebuilt. The inside of the engine was very clean. I didn't know the service history of the car and don't know the effect it had.
 
Instead of buying a brand name engine flush with kerosene in it and pay $10 a bottle,
I buy a bottle of kerosene for $3! I get 4 flushes out of it over 5 yrs!

I found out about this trick from a trucker pal o/o in the '80s who looked after his own
truck, if he can do it, I could too.
 
My Dad ruined the engine in his Cadillac with a motor oil flush. He drove the car a little ways and then the engine seized up. Tow truck came and got the car and took it to a repair shop. The engine was pulled, disassembled and sent to the machine shop. He kept the car for another 20 years after that.
 
Used the cheapest i could find when I « needed » it, when buying used vehicles and doing the first oil change myself.. Instructions were always like « pour the bottle in the engine oil fill when at operating temperature, then let idle 15 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE »

The greatest improvement was on a 2LT Toyota engine.

I even ran straight gasoil (after flushing oil) for less than 5 seconds in a push mower briggs and stratton classic 35 engine, 10 years ago. The engine still runs like new today, with high torque demand, seeing many decks pass by...
 
The only marketed flush I've used was lubegard flush. It seemed gentler from their description than others but did do some cleaning from what I could tell. I would use it again if I ever felt I needed it.
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
I have many times but it was a long time ago before I started using Syn oil in my vehicles.
I used Gunk Motor Flush.


I've used gunk before (over 8 years ago). I didn't see a
difference in performance on a v6 Toyota.

I agree that the kerosene method is cheaper and maybe even more effective.
 
When the fuel pump diaphragm failed in my 1977 Cadillac failed, I got a nice gasoline wash of my motor oil and engine. The car started knocking within a mile of noticing the fuel gauge dropping. Wiped a rod bearing. Not too keen on fuel flushes.
 
I used the gray bottle last in 2005.

Created a horrendously loud knock that didn't clear up. The motor eventually seized in 2008, but I don't know if it
Was related to the loud knock created by the flush. I wouldn't use anything like it again, that loud knock was embarrassing as all get out.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
My Dad ruined the engine in his Cadillac with a motor oil flush. He drove the car a little ways and then the engine seized up. Tow truck came and got the car and took it to a repair shop. The engine was pulled, disassembled and sent to the machine shop. He kept the car for another 20 years after that.



Oh yeah, instruction usually say, don't drive the car, idle only, stop, drain, new filter, new oil.
 
I have done two B12 flushes on my Jeep as it was poorly maintained before I got it. Have not taken anything apart to look since though. I have also run Rislone a few times in our old Lumina for the full OCI, it seemed to help a bit (it had crud from coolant intrusion) but again no tear down. Ran it for years after that though.

Also have run MMO in a variety of vehicles as a gentle cleaner again no issues.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top