Dewalt Drill - New Brushes?

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19 v Dewalt Cordless Drill. 12 or more years old.

Recently feeling like it is stripped inside. When changing bits, I hold the 'circle thing' (real technical eh?) and engage it forward or back. Feels
like it is stripped and not engaging. Would that be bushings? Did a little google and that is all I could figure. I also couldn't screw in a longer screw,
just made the cranking sound. Turned but then gave out.

Worth trying to repair? Difficult?
 
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Is there screw mode and drill mode? Mine has an adjustable slip clutch in screw mode which limits torque. Drill mode locks out the clutch and it won't slip. Check that first as usually these drills outlast the batteries unless you pour sand into them.
 
Originally Posted By: coopns
I have a 1 and 2 at the top of drill. Where could I find screw/drill mode?


clutch.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: coopns
I have a 1 and 2 at the top of drill. Where could I find screw/drill mode?


That's probably the "gear". My Porter Cable has that and it just controls the max speed of the drill. You need to fiddle with the clutch adjustment like the others said.
 
Some of these drills have a clutch. Is it releasing based upon the clutch setting? Is it operational?

Could be stripped gears; I suspect there is one nylon one in there designed to give up first. Open it up!!
 
It is very unlikely there is a sacrificial nylon gear meant to give up first.

Drills are not terribly complex. I've no idea what you're trying to describe but you should be able to tear it down and inspect each component. Then again if it's running off now old NiCd packs you might benefit greatly from moving to a modern Li-Ion based drill, even if it isn't the shiniest, newest brushless model. Brushed vs -less makes a lot less difference than NiCd to Li-Ion.
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Originally Posted By: coopns
I have a 1 and 2 at the top of drill. Where could I find screw/drill mode?


That's probably the "gear". My Porter Cable has that and it just controls the max speed of the drill. You need to fiddle with the clutch adjustment like the others said.


+2 on the clutch setting. I have the dewalt 20v li-ion driver and hammer drill. I've framed a shed and my entire basement with that impact driver and its still going strong. The Date codes on the battery are from 2011 and they still hold a perfect charge.
 
Originally Posted By: Dave9
It is very unlikely there is a sacrificial nylon gear meant to give up first.

Drills are not terribly complex. I've no idea what you're trying to describe but you should be able to tear it down and inspect each component. Then again if it's running off now old NiCd packs you might benefit greatly from moving to a modern Li-Ion based drill, even if it isn't the shiniest, newest brushless model. Brushed vs -less makes a lot less difference than NiCd to Li-Ion.


Ok.

https://www.plasticsportal.net/wa/plasticsEU~es_ES/portal/show/common/plasticsportal_news/2010/10_374?doc_lang=en_GB

Im all fir engineering plastics, but I'd trust a metal drivetrain to last the duration over plastic parts.

Not saying this is what it is... just could be...
 
sounds like you need a new chuck for the drill.

Black & Decker uses powdered metal geartrain for DeWalt products. B&D branded ones are plastic. It all based on the type of customer that uses which brand of tools.
 
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