Worth changing O2 Sensor without error code?
- Thread starter ZZman
- Start date
- Status
I replaced mine @110k. No codes but power and mpg both got better.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I replaced mine @110k. No codes but power and mpg both got better.
Just the upstream one or both, or more? Which brand? Thank you.
I replaced mine @110k. No codes but power and mpg both got better.
Just the upstream one or both, or more? Which brand? Thank you.
Usually not until they fail emissions if they have not been replaced by a wideband at that point. I have run wideband sensors and gauges in most of my previous cars as they have been modified forced induction setups.
I'd wait. They tend to last longer due to todays cleaner running engines, gas with lower sulfur, lack of MMT and lower ZDDP engine oils. If you happened to have a oscilloscope you could check the condition of the sensors
and truly know the condition.
and truly know the condition.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I replaced mine @110k. No codes but power and mpg both got better.
Just the upstream one or both, or more? Which brand? Thank you.
Just the up stream ones. The others dont have anything to do with fuel mixture. I tried Bosch but they threw codes. NTK was OE in my Jeep so I bought those on rock auto. now has 50k on them.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I replaced mine @110k. No codes but power and mpg both got better.
Just the upstream one or both, or more? Which brand? Thank you.
Just the up stream ones. The others dont have anything to do with fuel mixture. I tried Bosch but they threw codes. NTK was OE in my Jeep so I bought those on rock auto. now has 50k on them.
If power and MPG seem significantly weaker, you have no CEL, you've got good spark plugs and wires (if applicable) and a clean air filter, cleaning or replacing your upstream sensor may be a good move.
My dad had a '98 Dakota that ran but ran inconsistently; sometimes would just shut off at a red light. Long story short, I found one of the o2 sensors' connecting harness had melted against a portion of the exhaust pipe. No CEL though. Odd! New sensor and connector, truck ran like a champ. Major MPG improvement as well.
My dad had a '98 Dakota that ran but ran inconsistently; sometimes would just shut off at a red light. Long story short, I found one of the o2 sensors' connecting harness had melted against a portion of the exhaust pipe. No CEL though. Odd! New sensor and connector, truck ran like a champ. Major MPG improvement as well.
I wouldn't replace one unless I suspected it had failed in some manner. It's never happened with my cars.
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2013
- Messages
- 3,220
You can check for lazy O2 sensors with a scan tool. Barring poisoning from oil/coolant, they should last a good while. If you need to replace, use the OEM brand. You don't have to go to the dealer but at least use a direct fit sensor of the same brand.
I think the recommended change interval is in the 60-80k. Even if they're not bad, if you change them, gas mileage should improve slightly. Depending on the car, they can be pretty cheap. I think I got mine for around $25 from rockauto. The car had over 120k on the originals so they were overdue and I did see an improvement in gas mileage afterwards.
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
I've changed them at 100k and the improvement was smoother idle. For some reason they were fairly cheap to replace on that old Ford..but it seems like o2 sensors for Toyotas are crazy expensive in comparison. ($200 vs $50)
Yeah, that $25 was for a Ford. My Mercedes ones are only about $100 for Bosch. Time to switch to Mercedes for cheaper parts....
I've changed them at 100k and the improvement was smoother idle. For some reason they were fairly cheap to replace on that old Ford..but it seems like o2 sensors for Toyotas are crazy expensive in comparison. ($200 vs $50)
Yeah, that $25 was for a Ford. My Mercedes ones are only about $100 for Bosch. Time to switch to Mercedes for cheaper parts....
Rear sensors last a long time if the converter is in good shape. As others have said, the front (s) become slow to respond to O2 changes in the exhaust and cause strange symptoms which don't directly set codes. Happens most often after the engine has warmed up and then is allowed to cool for a short period.
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
I've changed them at 100k and the improvement was smoother idle. For some reason they were fairly cheap to replace on that old Ford..but it seems like o2 sensors for Toyotas are crazy expensive in comparison. ($200 vs $50)
A look at Rock Auto shows Denso sensors for many Toyotas in the 100 dollar or less range.
I've changed them at 100k and the improvement was smoother idle. For some reason they were fairly cheap to replace on that old Ford..but it seems like o2 sensors for Toyotas are crazy expensive in comparison. ($200 vs $50)
A look at Rock Auto shows Denso sensors for many Toyotas in the 100 dollar or less range.
I changed the upstream sensors on my 02 Xterra, and the MPG went from 13 to 19. No codes or rough running issues at all beforehand. I did check with a scan tool and you could see compared to my other car they did not change voltage as frequently. The OE sensors were Bosch but I used NTK without issue.
Originally Posted By: AdamZ
I changed the upstream sensors on my 02 Xterra, and the MPG went from 13 to 19.
That's probably what I should do then. I'm getting 18 MPG when I should be getting over 19.
I changed the upstream sensors on my 02 Xterra, and the MPG went from 13 to 19.
That's probably what I should do then. I'm getting 18 MPG when I should be getting over 19.
Kestas
Staff member
Any thoughts on using universal O2 sensors? These would be the ones that are the proper sensor designed for your car, but without the proper pigtail connector. You have to salvage the old connector and splice in the wiring. Savings can be half of what you pay for the one with the connector.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Savings can be half of what you pay for the one with the connector.
I'm already saving half as much by shopping at RockAuto.
Savings can be half of what you pay for the one with the connector.
I'm already saving half as much by shopping at RockAuto.
I think its a good exercise just to see if they come off. And if they do, coat them with anti seize for when you really do have a problem.
- Status
