Inspecting my mother’s envoy I noticed a small drip of gear oil right below the drain plug on the front differential. I checked for the correct torque on the plug seems fine. I believe the leak is actually the front drive shaft differential pinion seal. Can’t be sure because I didn’t have all my tools to remove cross member etc.. I can see a fair amount of black oil gunk on the propeller shaft right behind the front diff. I don’t want the dealer ripping her off, they quoted $2000 to fix the leak. Anybody have an idea how many hrs a job like this should take? I’m assuming a new pinion seal itself Isn’t much. Thanks
Front differential Leak 2008 GMC Envoy V-8
- Thread starter Ammofirst
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2K$ will buy an awful lot of diff lube. I 've never replaced a pinion seal. The Rat's seal is gone, I go through a pint of lube a yr. I recommend keeping an eye on the level. Also, I believe that the old method of filling until it runs out of the hole is a mild over fill and will blow misted lube out of the vent.
Is there an independent shop that specializes in drivelines in your area?
There might be idk. Unfortunately they live pretty far away which makes it hard for me to just keep an eye on it. The car sits too much. Its a 2008 with 22k on it. I just can’t imagine it being more than a 5-6 hr job.
Oil around the fromt differential could be coming down from somewhere up above. Seems unlikely that the pinion seal would be leaking at 22,000 miles even if it is a 10 year old vehicle. I'd sure absolutely confirm where the leak is coming from before having the seal replaced.
I had a Mercury years ago leak at the pinion. Wasn't bad but under warranty and had the dealer "fix" it. Wish I never did. Wound up with a noisy differential and still listen to it to this day. They said it is normal.I have an F150 which has a pinion leak. Sprays a fine mist of oil all over underneath. I top it off with such a small amount every few years, probably a sippy cup full. My suggestion, leave it alone, maintain the level. If it leaks a puddle on the pavement, then I would have it fixed.
Originally Posted By: Lubener
I had a Mercury years ago leak at the pinion. Wasn't bad but under warranty and had the dealer "fix" it. Wish I never did. Wound up with a noisy differential and still listen to it to this day. They said it is normal.
I had a Mercury years ago leak at the pinion. Wasn't bad but under warranty and had the dealer "fix" it. Wish I never did. Wound up with a noisy differential and still listen to it to this day. They said it is normal.
4WD
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Is the oil a 90 with opportunity to go 140? That’d be a chance to add a small amount of seal conditioner too
The dealer is either trying to cut a fat hog or is quoting you the price to replace the whole front diff. In theory the diff crush sleeve should be replaced whenever you remove the pinon nut. It's very easy to get the preload wrong and cause noise or burn the bearings up.
In reality lots of ppl just replace the seal, put the nut back on where it was and go about their day. Book time for this is a couple of hours plus the seal. I am guessing $30 for the seal and 2 hrs @ $100/hr.... $230ish.
In reality lots of ppl just replace the seal, put the nut back on where it was and go about their day. Book time for this is a couple of hours plus the seal. I am guessing $30 for the seal and 2 hrs @ $100/hr.... $230ish.
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If you are talking the output shaft seal - let's hope it is not the right side! Here is the GM labor guide:
3010110 Output Shaft Seal Replacement - Right Side
Effective Date: Oct 1, 2017
LABOR CODE: 3010110
Base LABOR TIME: 6.3
Engine Codes H, M and P LABOR TIME: 4.8
To Replace Left Seal ADD TIME: 0.1
3010130 Output Shaft Seal Replacement - Left Side
Effective Date: Oct 1, 2017
LABOR CODE: 3010130
Base LABOR TIME: 1.5
3010110 Output Shaft Seal Replacement - Right Side
Effective Date: Oct 1, 2017
LABOR CODE: 3010110
Base LABOR TIME: 6.3
Engine Codes H, M and P LABOR TIME: 4.8
To Replace Left Seal ADD TIME: 0.1
3010130 Output Shaft Seal Replacement - Left Side
Effective Date: Oct 1, 2017
LABOR CODE: 3010130
Base LABOR TIME: 1.5
Going through this currently. In my case the front diff vent tube fell off the plastic fender well, causing the diff to fill with water, salt, sand, etc. over time. The damage is done internally, the PO didn't see it for "years". Anyways, I swapped out the fluid with the correct viscosity synthetic (M1 75w90) and after the second drain and fill, the leak stopped. The drip came back when I had the bright idea of trying 75w140 in an attempt to quiet howling at specific speeds. So I went back to 75w90 syn, no leak. So check the diff vent, make sure its not kinked or fell underneath. Change the fluid with spec and importantly make sure the level is correct. its not necessarily "1.8qts". Its (check manual) some measurement below the fill hole cold. This allows for expansion without filling up the vent hole with fluid, causing a pressure problem, bursting fluid out that seal.
After looking at the costs of repairing only whats wrong the existing diff, I intend to shotgun the entire unit with a eBay reman at some point. You can get them for approx $1,000.
After looking at the costs of repairing only whats wrong the existing diff, I intend to shotgun the entire unit with a eBay reman at some point. You can get them for approx $1,000.
4WD
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In the meantime just exercise your right bestowed upon you by your BITOG handle ... that $1000 remanufactured plan is good when you do the wrenching … did one on a Dana 44 way back and it was stronger than what I broke …
FYI a quick google suggests others experienced a leak from the differential case seal in your years. You will see something lower right, below the pinion seal. Try cleaning it up real good and watch. Either way, I would be doing a drain and fill.
4WD
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OP or me?
The little drip felt like 90wt oil. I will inspect above just in case. I did take notice of the vent tube & it looks to be upright in orig. condition. Sounds like a job that’s easy to foul up which has me concerned. Wish I knew how to use the quote function ?
Performing a drain and fill on the front diff is easier than changing the oil. You just need a $4 plastic pump that screws on top of the bottle, 2 qts of M1 75w30 for $12 at AZ. Walmart doesn't carry M1 gear oil. You could use another syn if you like. Its worth it to check and see what condition the fluid is in. Silver = bad. Lots of metal on the magnetic drain plug = bad. Check the manual for fill details. I just did the rear diff @150k, was in great shape. Not much on the magnet. IMO GM front diffs are a weak spot, drain and fill every other year/30k.
Suggest visiting www.trailvoy.com or www.gmtnation.com. How-to's with pics.
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Is the oil a 90 with opportunity to go 140? That’d be a chance to add a small amount of seal conditioner too
I'm with you on this, selects GL5 monogrades SAE 140 >> SAE 90.
Op's existing fluid is probably a 75W90, and I won't even dump in a 80W90 in this D&F .......
saving $2000 for now.
Is the oil a 90 with opportunity to go 140? That’d be a chance to add a small amount of seal conditioner too
I'm with you on this, selects GL5 monogrades SAE 140 >> SAE 90.
Op's existing fluid is probably a 75W90, and I won't even dump in a 80W90 in this D&F .......
saving $2000 for now.
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