What technique to remove stuck bleeders?

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I am getting ready to flush my brake lines and have never done it before. I am expecting some stuck bleeders due to all the under vehicle rust. Youtube shows different techniques. What have you used that works well?
 
I think it was Trav on here who recommended smacking the top of the bleeder with a hammer while applying rotational force with a box end wrench. Worked like a charm for me.
 
I resort to penetrating oil and vise grips for bleeders that don't want to come out with a socket or wrench (ie, rounded off...). Wiggle it each way until you get some movement, then they usually will spin out without much trouble. You can also use some heat on it, if you have it.
 
I would start with a few passes with a wire brush. Then a spritz of penetrating oil. And the hammer tap.I have a 4 oz ball peen. Percussion works great. Be gentle, I have never successfully removed a sheared bleeder. If you remove the caliper, you could heat it up with a torch. Give the brake lines a hard look too. I quit messing with the bleeders on the Rat's front calipers when the bleeders started twisting apart and used them as cores for a pair of remans from Auto Zone. Please post follow up. TIA.
 
if you are replacing the bleeders, then fill the hollow core with some aluminum.
Get a piece just longer and about the diameter of the bleeder screw opening (welding wire works great for this). Put it in then hammer it gently into place. This fills the hollow cavity with metal and reduces the chance of breakage. If it does break, aluminum is easily drilled out if you have to easy-out the bleeder screw.
 
Clean with wire brush, a dab of MMO or PB Blaster, let it sit 2-3 mins. Heat area around the bleeder with torch pretty good, as fast as you can, put ice on the bleeder screw. If it tings/pings, it should come right out. Always worked for me.
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When I did my truck's, (I am assuming it was never done as well.) I sprayed them with liquid wrench the week before. I did end up buying new anyways because the old ones looked pretty sad.

I think my bleeders are 8mm. I ended up using a long handled 3/8" ratchet with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter. They came right off.
 
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Living where I personally believe that we use more road salt than anywhere in the world
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, I do what most others have said:

*Use a wire brush first!
*Then spray with your favorite penetrating lube long before you plan on trying to remove the bleeder.
*Once the bleeder is removed, replace with an new one. I keep extras around for this reason.
 
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Clean with wire brush, a dab of MMO or PB Blaster, let it sit 2-3 mins. Heat area around the bleeder with torch pretty good, as fast as you can, put ice on the bleeder screw. If it tings/pings, it should come right out. Always worked for me.
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Our city mechanic said something similar. Heat well and then pour cold water on it.
 
Kroil or liquid wrench daily for a week if this is a Michigan car. I've had good results with drilling and using the bleeder repair kit. If the hydraulics are that neglected might just consider new calipers.
 
If its just one, replace the entire caliper with a reman. Its easy to do, and remans are so cheap these days its not worth the aggravation of fiddling with a stuck or stripped bleeder..
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Living where I personally believe that we use more road salt than anywhere in the world
smile.gif
, I do what most others have said:

*Use a wire brush first!
*Then spray with your favorite penetrating lube long before you plan on trying to remove the bleeder.
*Once the bleeder is removed, replace with an new one. I keep extras around for this reason.


+1!
 
Use a wire wheel brush on a drill. Easy access around the nipple and fast.
Spray liquid wrench
Use long socket - don't use open end wrench or you will strip. Turn it slowly. Once loose. Turn it back and forth.
Just did this on a 1998 F150 last weekend for a friend. The bleeder was never been loosened and the brake fluid was black. It looked like original fluid from 1998.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher
if you are replacing the bleeders, then fill the hollow core with some aluminum.
Get a piece just longer and about the diameter of the bleeder screw opening (welding wire works great for this). Put it in then hammer it gently into place. This fills the hollow cavity with metal and reduces the chance of breakage. If it does break, aluminum is easily drilled out if you have to easy-out the bleeder screw.


This is a new one on me.

Very interesting.
 
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