new truck oil change

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getting ready for the first oil change on new 17 chevy truck. what does everyone think of going with 5- 20 compared to the recommended 0-20 ? the 5-20 has higher levels of phosphous and boron compared to the 0-20.
 
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Unless you're running it unusually hard I believe the consensus on pretty much all the new 0w20-spec engines is that it won't hurt them... but neither will 5w20.
 
The difference between a 5w20 and a 0w20 is minor. They recommend the 0w20 because, at a minimum, the 0w20 is at least a synthetic blend. I'd rather have a good 0w20 synthetic than a 5w20 conventional.
 
So no BMWs, Mercedes Benz's, VWs or Audi for you (JUST THE SHORT LIST). Sorry that your auto purchases are strictly limited to API Specs. Your life must be excruciatingly boring.

Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Having to use a special oil in Chevy's has taken them right off my buy list!
 
Don't go off the specs if you want to keep your warranty. Dexos is important to GM and it will void your powertrain warranty if they catch ya using the wrong grade in it.
 
I have been trying to decide the same thing. I have been looking at running either a 5w20 or 5w30 in Mobil EP for my new 2017 5.3 silverado. I believe the noack of both are better which I gather is important on these new direct injection motors. Also from what I gather the the 5-30 is so close to the 5-20 it really won't make a difference. I have considered looking at a 0-30 but not sure if Mobil makes a 0-30. Plus it probably has a bunch of VI modifers and that would make the noack go up? My old 6.2 silverado I used Mobil 0 40 both flavors. It ran great.
I do believe these new ecotec motors are a little different. Till someone or myself gets inside one completely to check any kind main or rod bearing clearance nobody knows for sure.
 
the only reaso i was going to go with the 5-20 was because it has higher levels of the anti-wear stuff in them. at mobil does. i think some of the reason for the thinner oils has to do with the valve timing and displacement on demand engines.
 
The only valid reason I can think of to select a 5W- over a 0W- would be for lower NOACK.
There aren't too many places in the contiguous US where the 0W qual would matter, so the hunt for lower NOACK would maybe make a 5W qual oil a good choice.
Check out the very good UOAs on the PQIA site and see whether the 5W-20 syns exhibit lower NOACK volatility than the zeros. They probably will.
You could do a whole lot worse than selecting an oil based upon lower NOACK with any DI engine.
In the very unlikely event of a warranty claim involving the engine, you'd just say that you used any major brand twenty that had the dexos logo and leave it at that.
Unless the oil has obviously never been changed, you'll be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Having to use a special oil in Chevy's has taken them right off my buy list!



That....and the new diesels are not like the old ones (DEF, and $70,000)
 
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Having to use a special oil in Chevy's has taken them right off my buy list!

You pretty much have to or will have to use a special oil in anything new these days.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Don't go off the specs if you want to keep your warranty. Dexos is important to GM and it will void your powertrain warranty if they catch ya using the wrong grade in it.


My Chevy manual does not say dexos is required, only recommended. And there are several TSB's out that state that if dexos1 is not available, then a synthetic of same viscosity is ok to use and will not void warranty. I rarely have followed any OEM's guidelines to the very letter on any engine I have owned. In the ball park, but not exactly. And I have never had a warranty concern.

And 0w20 and 5w20 are the same viscosity. There is no appreciable way that a dealer or GM themselves could tell the difference if they analyzed it. And I have not heard of one dealer analyzing anyone's oil. Even for warranty purposes. I have had warranty work done on many engines, both personal and commercial business vehicles, in almost 50 years and no dealer or OEM shop has even asked me about the oil, let alone tested it. And I have never had to produce a single documented piece of evidence of oil changes, and I have not personally heard of anyone having to. This all is a scare tactic to keep folks in line. I am sure it could happen in the most extreme of situations if the oil was like goo and the engine seized up.

The OP is from Missouri. A 5w20 would work just fine for that application, year round. Actually, the argument could be made very effectively that 5w20 could be a better idea, given the AFM design of those engines and the significantly lower NOACK of a 5w20 compared to 0w20 within the same brand and type of oil.

Some folks just worry too much.
 
Well, just got one too. How are these 5.3L GDI engines on fuel dilution (of the 0w20)?
 
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Having to use a special oil in Chevy's has taken them right off my buy list!

Aside from the other examples listed, you better stay away from a Ford or Chrysler diesel then, too.
 
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Don't go off the specs if you want to keep your warranty. Dexos is important to GM and it will void your powertrain warranty if they catch ya using the wrong grade in it.


My Chevy manual does not say dexos is required, only recommended. And there are several TSB's out that state that if dexos1 is not available, then a synthetic of same viscosity is ok to use and will not void warranty. I rarely have followed any OEM's guidelines to the very letter on any engine I have owned. In the ball park, but not exactly. And I have never had a warranty concern.

And 0w20 and 5w20 are the same viscosity. There is no appreciable way that a dealer or GM themselves could tell the difference if they analyzed it. And I have not heard of one dealer analyzing anyone's oil. Even for warranty purposes. I have had warranty work done on many engines, both personal and commercial business vehicles, in almost 50 years and no dealer or OEM shop has even asked me about the oil, let alone tested it. And I have never had to produce a single documented piece of evidence of oil changes, and I have not personally heard of anyone having to. This all is a scare tactic to keep folks in line. I am sure it could happen in the most extreme of situations if the oil was like goo and the engine seized up.

The OP is from Missouri. A 5w20 would work just fine for that application, year round. Actually, the argument could be made very effectively that 5w20 could be a better idea, given the AFM design of those engines and the significantly lower NOACK of a 5w20 compared to 0w20 within the same brand and type of oil.

Some folks just worry too much.


This is one of the most intelligent and reasonable posts I've ever seen on BITOG.
 
What are the specs of the 5w 20 Mobil EP compared to the 5w 30 mobile ep, or even the 0w 20 , I was thinking the 5w-30 ep was prone to shearing quickly and wondered if the 0w or 5w 20 suffered the same.
 
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