Permatex Ultra Black Question

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The instructions say to apply the product to ONE surface.

If I apply the product to BOTH mating surfaces, am I screwed ?
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Will they both be wet at the same time? If so, you are OK. But why go to all the bother ... Put it on the receiving surface and gently place the other part and snug lightly. Torque after set
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The instructions say to apply the product to ONE surface.

If I apply the product to BOTH mating surfaces, am I screwed ?
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Your all done start over again...
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Will they both be wet at the same time? If so, you are OK. But why go to all the bother ... Put it on the receiving surface and gently place the other part and snug lightly. Torque after set
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Yes, both sides were wet during assembly.

Surface A was the intake manifold and Surface B was the thermostat housing.

I didn't put a bead down, but instead I cake frosted the surfaces with a thin coat.

And another thing I'm not so sure on is that after assembly, I wiped off the squeeze out; is that a NO-NO ?
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
And another thing I'm not so sure on is that after assembly, I wiped off the squeeze out; is that a NO-NO ?

That's fine, the sealant trapped between the two surfaces does all the sealing. The excess on the outside of the joint seam does little to nothing in terms of actually sealing.
 
I've done both and not a noticeable difference when removing. Have you ever used the Right Stuff?
 
I haven't used the Right Stuff yet. The 5-minute working window would be cause for some anxiety unless I could lay a bead down as fast as the robots do. And then as expensive as it is, I'd be afraid of what's left in the container drying up.
 
I've used Ultra Black on dozens of projects and it's never failed to do the job.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I haven't used the Right Stuff yet. The 5-minute working window would be cause for some anxiety unless I could lay a bead down as fast as the robots do. And then as expensive as it is, I'd be afraid of what's left in the container drying up.

I stick it in the freezer. Slows the chemical reaction down significantly.
 
I think the "one surface rule" is for when you wait the 20 minutes for it to skim set and then assemble. If you are assembling immediately, I don't think it matters, but be careful you don't apply too much (use half the recommended bead size on both surfaces). If you over-apply blobs of cured RTV can break off the assembly and clog oil passages. A continuous bead is all that's needed.

You're probably OK that way if you skim coated the parts and you didn't see too much excess squeeze out from the outside (visible) portion of the assembly, plus you were doing water passages, not oil-wetted ones.
 
So far no leaks, but I did give it a full 24 hour cure time before I even poured the coolant back in. The new thermostat won't let the engine cool down to 176F with the air conditioner on like it used to. It's holding the engine to 198F with the A/C on.
 
Yes, both sides were wet during assembly.

Surface A was the intake manifold and Surface B was the thermostat housing.

I didn't put a bead down, but instead I cake frosted the surfaces with a thin coat.

And another thing I'm not so sure on is that after assembly, I wiped off the squeeze out; is that a NO-NO ? [/quote]

I would have used a gasket with Permatex 2 instead for the thermostat housing.
 
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