Best Replacement brake calipers Honda Accord

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Messages
645
Location
new jersey
I have a 2006 Honda accord I4 with a sticking RR brake caliper and I am afraid of what the Dealer will charge to replace usually it will be both RR and LR calipers with new rotors and pads to make it work properly again probably about a $1300 bill. anyone have any recommendations for non OEM parts that are as good as the originals OEM Honda or is it best to bite the bullet and pay for the OEM parts. the car has been well maintained with 105k miles. I was thinking of buying the parts online and let an ex Honda tech who now owns his own business to do the work.
 
A sticking caliper doesn't necessarily mean it needs to be replaced. Have you greased up the slides? Brake hose going bad?
 
Exactly, If you cant DIY it , You need a good independant to service your calipers or tell you to get new ones.
 
Last edited:
Most rebuilds of a decent name are of good enough quality, cardone ac delco napa, etc. Theres really not too much to a brake caliper, so usually the rebuilding is only a quick hone, new seals and bleeder screw, all cheap parts. Theres also new calipers, I recently needed 2 rear calipers on my golf and found new TRWs, same as OEM except had the VW logo scratched off.
 
Napa Eclipse. It is the same as Cardone Ultra, except the coating is black (instead of silver on the Cardone Ultra). I have them on my car, and they are awesome. Coated caliper are a MUST to deter the rust. Non-coated calipers rust overnight.

Even the dealer "OEM" rebuilds are done by Cardone

Also, get coated rotors. Centric Premium or Wagner E-shield.

The best pads to use are Akebono ProACT, Wagner Thermoquiet, Advics, or Beck/Arnley OE Pads (they are the actual OE pads in the original box with a B/A label on them)
 
I had bad luck with AAP calipers, believe they were cardone ones. Looked good enough to start, but they were as rusty as could be in no time flat. The 23 year old ones I removed looked better!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I had bad luck with AAP calipers, believe they were cardone ones. Looked good enough to start, but they were as rusty as could be in no time flat. The 23 year old ones I removed looked better!


That's why you need coated calipers like Cardone Ultra or Napa Eclipse
smile.gif


other reman calipers, Cardone or otherwise, usually don't come with any coating on the bare metal, and they strip away the original coating during the cleaning process.

Brand new factory calipers are coated.
 
I've replaced a handful of brake calipers over the years and have always masked off the piston as well the bleeder screw and shot them with a coat of clear. The matte finish clear produces the best finish as the gloss clear on calipers makes them a little flashy and highlights the caliper.
 
Accords tend to have hand brake cables seize up and make the rear caliper drag too. Just make sure of your problem first.

I've done plenty of calipers on accords just wanted to let you know that though.
 
As the others said, verify the actual issue and don't forget to replace the rubber flexible hose too. I use NAPA calipers and they have worked well for me. They are painted black like someone else said, so I have one original silver caliper and a black one on the other side of my Mustang but you can't see both sides of the car at once lol.
 
Originally Posted By: t1snwrbrdr12
Accords tend to have hand brake cables seize up and make the rear caliper drag too. Just make sure of your problem first.

I've done plenty of calipers on accords just wanted to let you know that though.
its my moms car I took it in for a oil change to the local Honda dealership and the service lady comes back after waiting 2.5 hours with a list of critical safety issues one being the RR inner brake pad is down to 1mm thickness and the pads are wearing unevenly which could be the caliper pins frozen or the caliper sticking or mal functioning so I told her I have to discuss it with the owner before I can make a decision to fix it seems like it was a high pressure deal to get me to say yes fix it immediately been there done that. My worse case assumption is that they will open it up and tell me the caliper is bad and will need to replace both rears,new rotors(they are pitted service lady says and maybe could be resurfaced depending on the thickness) and new pads all very high priced Honda OEM parts and then add to that the Labor costs,Im assuming over$1300 total.She also says the tires needed to be replaced. I was thinking of buying my own parts online at a cheaper cost and have a Ex Honda mechanic who now owns his own business to do the labor. The initial Dealer recommended repair was to replace rear pads resurface rotors and check/lube the caliper pins($250) this repair is not verified as a one and done fix only if they open up the calipers to see if further repairs are necessary it could spiral out of control quickly at these Dealerships.
 
Before ruling out the caliper's hydraulic and parking brake mechanicals, make sure there's still sufficient fluid going to the calipers and the slide pins in the caliper bracket are moving freely.

I haven't had much experience with calipers that have built-in parking brakes but if the mechanism outside of the piston bore or the screw/ratchet in the caliper is frozen it will result in stuck pads.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top