Headlight Sealant

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Folks:

I just used a 3M kit on some headlights. I'm really pleased. The lights were in really poor shape, so bad that I notice a difference at night.

Should I use some type of UV sealer? 3M recommends a synthetic wax that is about $20. I don't want to re-do this job in a few months.

One youtube guy painted his with Rustoleum clear glossy spray. But painting isn't one of my skills, and I don't want to have to sand off the clear coat.

Anyone point me in a direction?
 
Originally Posted By: Chester11
Folks:

I just used a 3M kit on some headlights. I'm really pleased. The lights were in really poor shape, so bad that I notice a difference at night.

Should I use some type of UV sealer? 3M recommends a synthetic wax that is about $20. I don't want to re-do this job in a few months.

One youtube guy painted his with Rustoleum clear glossy spray. But painting isn't one of my skills, and I don't want to have to sand off the clear coat.

Anyone point me in a direction?


at oreilly you can get 3m clear coat wipes for $7. expensive but problem solved. or buy the turtle wax kit that also includes the sealant for $10, and you can even do a few more headlights. the 3m kit gives better results but its more expensive.
 
actually have that kit in the garage. The lights were so bad, I thought I was going to need another kit, and it was on sale.

I can't quite figure out what all the fluids do...but the wipes look pretty straight forward.

Thanks...
 
I have seen many people use one sealant or another then they're eager to tell the world about it... for the first 18 months. They insist you "must" use a sealant or it will get terrible in a few months at most.

I have used various headlight polishing methods for over 20 years and find that's the more problematic way to do it. The headlights will degrade again, and then you have to strip all the sealant off before redoing them if it's the spray on, clear coat w/evaporative solvent type. That takes more work in addition to more expense and the hassle of masking off around the lens so overspray doesn't go where it shouldn't.

If you don't seal them with clear coat *paint*, then you can just touch them up briefly with a washcloth and toothpaste each time you wash and detail your vehicle. Literally, wash them thoroughly with a lot of toothpaste every now and then. It is not abrasive enough for the original restoration (by the time most people get annoyed enough to do one) but is just right for a touch up.

After that touch up, put on a normal automotive "sealant" meaning a synthetic wax. It does not need to be "for headlights" at all. Even good old NuFinish will do the job and it's cheap, or there is a Turtle Wax product that I forget the name of, a synthetic wax and polish in one that will work. Make sure the product isn't just labeled as "wax" without being all synthetic or called a sealant that is applied like wax.
 
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You need something to block UV wavelength from damaging the plastic. Whatever you use, it should include something to block UV or it will just degrade rapidly.
 
Or just park the car out of direct sunlight. You always have the option of pointing your car away from the sun no matter how you park.

My 2002 has been parked outside the past 8 years and no signs of yellowing. I can't ever recall having ANY of my cars over the past 40 yrs get "tanned" headlights. I never did anything more than wax then occasionally. No doubt the UV effect is stronger in the southern part of US.
 
There's a product called 'Blue Magic' Head Light sealer that costs about $7 for an 8 ounce bottle. They also sell a 'Headlight Restorer' for a similar price.

I agree that a coating of wax is better than nothing.
 
thanks guys for the explanations. detailing products absolutely make my head spin - so really appreciate the info.
 
Funny you should post this as I just got done experimenting with some headlight restoration. I used the sand/clearcoat method that's all over youtube. I used Rustoleum 2x Clear with UV protection as recommended by many DIY tutorials. I did the '00 Civic exactly as Crisfix on Youtube did it. I sprayed the clear and within 30 seconds, the paint cracked. I finished the three coats and the headlights are perfectly clear and you can see better at night, but they both have these spider web like cracks. I figured maybe I sanded too much with the 1500 grit and the paint didn't have enough roughness to grab. I tried the '01 Civic. I stopped at 1000 grit and only sanded very lightly. The paint did the EXACT same thing.

Frustrated (to say the least), I pulled the bumper off (the '01), took the headlights out, and sanded the clear off for two days. Purchased Duplicolor adhesion promoter and clear enamel. One light looks brand new. The other looks okay, just orange peeled from my lack of spray bomb skill. I don't know if they've changed something in the Rustoleum clear formula, but it didn't work for me.

All that being said, I used these two beater cars to see if this is something I'd do for other headlights. Personally, I think you'd be better off using a synthetic sealant (as stated above) after sanding with 600, 1000, 2500 grits. Then repeat the 2500 grit or rubbing compound or toothpaste every month or so. That first sanding is going to get the old factory coating (the yellow stuff) off. Then every few months you're doing touch up.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I wish they would bring back the glass headlamp.... and they're only $10 to replace.


+1
 
I don't see any reason why projector lights (with glass lenses) couldn't be incorporated into the fronts of cars. The glass would be plenty thick to not shatter if hit by a stone, they would remain clear, and they would likely be less costly to replace.
 
Originally Posted By: fenixguy
I sprayed the clear and within 30 seconds, the paint cracked. I finished the three coats and the headlights are perfectly clear and you can see better at night, but they both have these spider web like cracks. I figured maybe I sanded too much with the 1500 grit and the paint didn't have enough roughness to grab. I tried the '01 Civic. I stopped at 1000 grit and only sanded very lightly. The paint did the EXACT same thing.


This was pretty much what I was afraid of. The 3M kit has a drill attachment, and the compound step gets the plastic very smooth. I was afraid the clear would run.

I think I'm just going to use synthetic wax and keep an eye on it. Maybe hit it with some compound again.

I took off a lot of material with the 500 grit paper - one headlight had yellow fingerprints in the lens from when I accidentally touched it with transmission fluid. I'm happy now, but see how long it lasts.
 
I usually use a spray wax when I am drying off the car after a washing. Personally I would buy a bottle of Collinite and use that instead. Car and headlights.
 
I clean my 2006 Sentra headlights once a year with Meguiars PlastX throw a coat of good old original Turtle wax on them a couple times over the year and do it again a year later.
Takes about 20 minutes with a drill and I'm good.
 
I used Plasti-X on the Matrix along with their headlight sealant which is a spray, very similar to a clear coat. So I had to tape off the area pretty good with newspaper. I did it in the garage and the clear coat still got between the sheets of paper some how and got on the bumper cover. I could feel the over spray with my hand. So not sure I'd use that stuff again. On the can it says lasts a year so we'll see.
 
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