For me, it's much ado about nothing for street applications. Here's why:
I've cut open numerous brands and constructions of oil filters over recent years,
center tubes with holes, slots or louvers, lots of holes some with way less!
Filter bases with as few as 4 holes some with 8, large holes, others much smaller!
The biggest restriction is the tight clearances in bearings that will float
on an oil film of .001" or less at every moving part!
This is the restriction that the oil pump builds pressure against at the end of the day!
The delta-p of any national brand filter in a healthy engine won't be a factor or we'd
have all seen oil related engine failures.
The worst-case scenario for delta-p would be an engine with bottomed out main bearings
with oil flow so high the oil pressure collapses and turns on the oil light at idle
with a full oil pan! I had this happen, so I raised engine idle and changed from 10W30
to 20W50 and drove that Chrysler Slant-6 225ci engine with 180,000 Miles another 2 years!
In that case as bad as it was, the delta-p of the filter still wasn't a factor!
The thing to remember, delta-p will vary with oil flow, the lower the flow even with a
steady pressure from the oil pump, delta-p will drop. At 'zero' flow static pressure, the
delta-p of all filters good or bad will be zero!
Manufacturers can measure and characterize a filter in many ways, it doesn't mean it'll effect
your daily drive negatively, thank god for that!
If you're running a dragster at 8,000 RPM or more, then you want a rock-catcher filter
with a 100 micron screen!
I'd be more concerned with filters with separated pleats and tears allowing unfiltered oil
then delta-p !! Once we walk through the rationale, it's OK to put the issue to bed.