Better than no generator, generator.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 29, 2005
Messages
879
Location
Ozark Mountains
I bought one of these little dudes at Harbor Freight about six weeks ago. It was about $88 with a coupon. Regular price is $109. Coupons on line.

https://www.harborfreight.com/900-max-st...carb-63025.html

It's a little 2 cycle 700 watt 2 HP machine. I use it at my boat dock to power the air pump for a boat lift. I was not sure if it would handle the load or especially the start up amps but it does well. Bears down yes but no problems at all.

Only 38 pounds so easy to carry.

I broke it in with no load for 20 minutes and when I start it now, I warm it up with no load for five minutes and then cool down with no load for 3. I burn 32/1 since it operates at very high load (don't flame me for not using the 50/1 recommended) and I use full synthetic FD rated 2 cycle oil.

Very quiet and seems well made.

Much better than no generator when you need one. It's like what they say about a .25 caliber pistol. "It's better than throwing rocks".
 
Probably will make nice anchor too. They had these stacked like a block wall at the south TX flea markets and there were several being used to power various items to show that they were working. It will probably run well past anybody's expected life cycle.
 
I never understood why people use more oil than recommended. I've worked on a number of these machines over the years where people did this.

Using a richer oil mixture than what is recommended can actually shorten the engine life. It often creates more carbon build-up which can break off and score the piston. Piston scoring on a 2 stroke engine means no compression, and it won't run or will only run very poorly. I have replaced numerous pistons/blocks because of this.

If you run a good name brand oil (I use Husqvarna semi-synthetic) and mix it at the proper ratio, you will not have any problems. Your engine will actually be cleaner inside as a result.
 
Not true on running rich oil mixtures. Hard carbon in these engines comes from running Boat oil in them. TCW3 oil.
Use a TC rated oil and you will have no problems.
I have run and tore down numerous two strokes and found that to be he case. I have also run 32:1 and 20:1 in small engines and had them last 20+ years without a teardown. Slobber out of the tailpipe is a good sign. Dry soot is bad.
 
Heard many good things about them. Red, White, Blue, and Green they all seem to be about the same and will run up to 1000 watts without issue. Plenty of power for most tasks.
 
For what they are it is hard to complain too much about them. I captured some wave forms on my scope from one of the older blue ones and posted it here last year. Nice when I need power on the farm to drive my dinky little air compressor, and listen to the old boombox during tractor maintenance.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
It might power a few lights while camping but not much more.
Mine ran my moms oxygen generator and my refrigerator at the same time. It did labor when the compressor first came on but caught up quickly.
 
Last edited:
I've had one for 6 years. It ran for almost 5 days when we lost power during a snowstorm.

Still starts up and runs fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: Donald
It might power a few lights while camping but not much more.
Mine ran my moms oxygen generator and my refrigerator at the same time. It did labor when the compressor first came on but caught up quickly.


Not long ago I talked to a lawn care worker and they had one on their truck. He told me they use it on occasion when they need re-mote power for electric tools. He told me it does have a lot of hours on it and haven't had any problems.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Not true on running rich oil mixtures. Hard carbon in these engines comes from running Boat oil in them. TCW3 oil.
Use a TC rated oil and you will have no problems.
I have run and tore down numerous two strokes and found that to be he case. I have also run 32:1 and 20:1 in small engines and had them last 20+ years without a teardown. Slobber out of the tailpipe is a good sign. Dry soot is bad.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Not true on running rich oil mixtures. Hard carbon in these engines comes from running Boat oil in them. TCW3 oil.
Use a TC rated oil and you will have no problems.
I have run and tore down numerous two strokes and found that to be he case. I have also run 32:1 and 20:1 in small engines and had them last 20+ years without a teardown. Slobber out of the tailpipe is a good sign. Dry soot is bad.


+1


Is it possible that the guys who run extra oil in their 2 cycle engines are the same guys that run thicker than factory engine oil in their vehicles? Just askin.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Not true on running rich oil mixtures. Hard carbon in these engines comes from running Boat oil in them. TCW3 oil.
Use a TC rated oil and you will have no problems.
I have run and tore down numerous two strokes and found that to be he case. I have also run 32:1 and 20:1 in small engines and had them last 20+ years without a teardown. Slobber out of the tailpipe is a good sign. Dry soot is bad.


I've never seen boat oil run in engines up here. It likely isn't as big of an issue if you run decent oil, but many of these engines had the cheapest oil possible.

I also had a guy running regular motor oil mixed with fuel...
 
Be sure to use incandescent lamps with a generator whenever possible.

The Power Factor on a CFL lamp is poor, making the load far higher than what the wattage rating would suggest. In your home, with a single-phase supply from the utility, you don't pay for power factor because there is no way to meter it.* In commercial buildings with 3-phase power, they do pay for it. LED lamps also present a reactive load that generators find difficult.

That very 2-stroke generator you bought can power about a dozen 18-watt CFLs (for example). The assumed load is just over 200 watts, but the reactive load is much greater and is at or above the generator's 900 watt capacity.

When we go camping, we bring along a long extension cord (50 foot 12-Ga; you don't want too long an extension cord, and you don't want to coil it, as a coiled cord also presents a reactive component) and dig a small hole to put the small generator in. At the campsite, you can barely hear it, so we can have enjoyable tunes while we're not out fishing.

* Well, actually you do pay for it, on a collective basis. The Utility still has to generate extra power to drive a house full of CFL or LED lamps but they cannot bill you for that extra generating capacity. So, they raise the rate per KWh for everyone as more incandescents are replaced by "energy saving" lighting.
 
^^^^^
I'm no electrical engineer, but my generator does not notice when I turn on the LED flood lights on the side of my trailer. The old halogens made it beg for mercy.
 
I have one of these fine little generators. I run it on 50 to 1 Amsoil sabre and ethanol free gas. I keep this mix around for my chain saw and weed eater. I have run the heck out of it and it will not die. The fuel cap vent on mine does not vent properly, causing the engine to vacuum lock and stall after a while. I just leave the fuel cap slightly loose when I run it. One Amazon reviewer said he drilled a small vent hole in the gas cap, but, I find it easier to just loosen the cap.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Not true on running rich oil mixtures. Hard carbon in these engines comes from running Boat oil in them. TCW3 oil.
Use a TC rated oil and you will have no problems.
I have run and tore down numerous two strokes and found that to be he case. I have also run 32:1 and 20:1 in small engines and had them last 20+ years without a teardown. Slobber out of the tailpipe is a good sign. Dry soot is bad.


+1
I agree, 32:1 in everything for me. Another problem is the fact that more oil leans the fuel mixture, which causes over heating and scoring if it is not compensated for with carb adjustments.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Not true on running rich oil mixtures. Hard carbon in these engines comes from running Boat oil in them. TCW3 oil.
Use a TC rated oil and you will have no problems.
I have run and tore down numerous two strokes and found that to be he case. I have also run 32:1 and 20:1 in small engines and had them last 20+ years without a teardown. Slobber out of the tailpipe is a good sign. Dry soot is bad.


+1


Is it possible that the guys who run extra oil in their 2 cycle engines are the same guys that run thicker than factory engine oil in their vehicles? Just askin.


Absolutely!! More is Better!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top