Fixing a leaking P-trap

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Anyone have much experience doing this? Ours in the bathroom sink had been leaking on and off for years, but I kind of put off trying to fix it until recently after a toothbrush dropped in (with the stopper pulled out but that's another matter). So I finally pulled out the pipe wrench and took apart the trap. Also found a glass marble that our kid dropped in. The washers were completely gone and brittle, and obviously needed replacement years ago. The pipes are all chrome-plated brass (or copper?) in good enough condition to reuse, but there's a 1-1/4" nut in front and an 1-1/2" nut in the back. The front was still in good shape - chrome-plated brass, but the rear was completely cracked, corroded, and seemed to be all zinc. It was also a bit oversized on the outside, but not a bit deal.

So I went to Home Depot to see what they had. I figured I just needed a new washer (came only in 3-packs) for the front nut, but I couldn't figure out the rear. Their plumbing guy pointed me to a new 1-1/2" zinc nut with one washer. It seemed smaller than my original (which was huge) but it did eventually fit with no leaks.

Now I'm reading up on these things, and one recommendation was to not use zinc nuts because they're not as strong, they corrode easily, and may be difficult/impossible to remove if they corrode. I couldn't find brass nuts at HD, although I've seen solid brass or chrome-plated brass available elsewhere. Is this worth replacing?
 
Personally , I would pick up a plastic P-Trap and assorted plastic parts and pieces . Never have to worry about that part of the plumbing corroding , ever again .

But , if shiny trips your trigger , knock your self put .

Also , I normally use Channel Locks , in stead of a pipe wrench , for such repairs .

I agree , I would try to avoid the zinc / pot metal slip nut .

By the way , I am not a plumber , but have done way more of it than I ever wished to . :-(

Best of luck , :)
 
Thanks for the advice. I've installed a plastic trap before in the kitchen, but it was just replacing another plastic trap. The craziest was replacing the one for the laundry. It was a huge metal standpipe, and I couldn't find anything that matched it. I ended up using several PVC pieces to make one long one along with a bend.

I would rather keep all of this since it's already brass pieces and the pipe is in remarkably good shape even after years. There are a few scratches though, but that doesn't bother me.

And that 1-1/2 nut was a really heavy zinc one. The threads were scraped and worn down. I think after the initial leak, (and where the ring had split) it leaked for a while until the corrosion formed a seal. It's not a big deal redoing it. It was easy enough to do it the first time. Not sure what a handyman would charge. I know most plumbers charge at least 2 hours plus materials around here.
 
Originally Posted By: Kool1
I have a friend who is a plumber. Every trap in his house is a brass trap.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-LA-Code-1-1-2-in-Brass-P-Trap-C751-3/205154249

It's expensive but I'm sure it's the last trap he'll ever have to buy. I refuse to spend that kind of money when a regular trap is less than $10.00.


I agree , except this is what I have under my kitchen sink . Had it apart last week or the week before . Ran a snake through the waste pipe to clear a clog .


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Plastic-P-Trap-C9704B/205153793

I have probably had it apart something like a dozen times in the last 15 - 20 years . Still works .

But , hay , spend your money any way you wish .

Best of luck , :)


P S May be the plumber was not the one payong for the brass fittinh ?
 
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I did go looking for a brass or chrome-plated brass nut. The hardware store had single 1-1/4 slip joint washers for way less than I paid for a 3-pack. I guess that's a learning experience. They only had zinc nuts though.

The best price I could find was from Grainger. Their options are either solid brass or chrome-plated brass for about $2.50, although I don't think it comes with a washer (which I have now). My only problem is that the closest one is miles away. There used to be one really close, but that one closed. I've bought stuff and had it ready for pickup without shipping charges at one of their locations. I got a bunch of copper crush washers for fluid changes.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Slip-Nut-6ZGA1
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Slip-Nut-6ZGA3
 
A tip: if you can't get the trap to seal after you fix it, i.e. it has a slow drip: Just put a bucket under it for a few days or a week. The fact that drain water has a lot of little solids in it and that the trap is under no pressure, they often seal themselves.
 
I have used Fernco P traps for years with good results. The trap is made of RUBBER and has 2 stainless hose clamps. Install, tighten clamps, done! The rubber is flexible enough to handle any misalignment and it survived drain cleaner my idiot tenant poured down the drain. Available at Home Depot and most big box stores. You can often clear a blockage by squeezing the rubber trap repeatedly to break up a clog. CERTIFIED TENANT PROOF!
 
This is the Home Depot part number for a Fernco P trap. Sorry I do not know how to post an image. I am a good plumber tho :)

Model # PFT-150

Internet #100372301

Store SKU #688037

Store SO SKU #1000059088

null 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/4 in. PVC Drain Trap



1-1/2 in. x 1-1/4 in. PVC Drain Trap













































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Questions & Answers (2)














$644 /each
 
CERTIFIED TENANT PROOF!

I humbly doubt there is such a thing !

I have seen those rubber P-Traps , never priced one .

I doubt the plastic P-Trap I referenced would be damaged by drain cleaner chemicals ?

At my house , the clog is not in the P-Trap . Seems to be 15 - 30 feet down the line . Maybe where it ties into the main line headed towards the ally ?

Best of luck to you , :)
 
Love the idea of that Fenco trap! As much as I've used various Fernco fittings over the years, I've never tried one of their P-traps.
 
Plastic black or white trap kits are cheap and a big improvement over brass. Plastic is easy to install and flows better too. I replaced all the brass which in time leak, caused lots of damage.
 
I put tubular plastic traps under my lavatories (bathroom sinks) more than 25 years ago, and they're still fine. I think they were 89 cents then, they're maybe a dollar and a half now. I have a McGuire brass p-trap under the kitchen sink that I got for free. It's at least 15 years old, but it's pretty heavy.

Tubular brass traps come in 17, 20, and 22 gauge. 17 gauge traps generally last a very long time, the others don't. Brass slip joint nuts are absolutely the way to go if possible. The zinc ones WILL corrode.
 
I hate those cheesy plastic 1 1/4 P traps. I went with a solid PVC trap and use Fernco no hubs (hose and 2 clamps) top and bottom. I didn't know about the rubber P trap.
 
Originally Posted By: Kool1
I have a friend who is a plumber. Every trap in his house is a brass trap.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-LA-Code-1-1-2-in-Brass-P-Trap-C751-3/205154249

It's expensive but I'm sure it's the last trap he'll ever have to buy. I refuse to spend that kind of money when a regular trap is less than $10.00.


Holy smokes! $70.53
shocked2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Stelth
I put tubular plastic traps under my lavatories (bathroom sinks) more than 25 years ago, and they're still fine. I think they were 89 cents then, they're maybe a dollar and a half now. I have a McGuire brass p-trap under the kitchen sink that I got for free. It's at least 15 years old, but it's pretty heavy.

Tubular brass traps come in 17, 20, and 22 gauge. 17 gauge traps generally last a very long time, the others don't. Brass slip joint nuts are absolutely the way to go if possible. The zinc ones WILL corrode.

Yeah - right now I'm just leaving the zinc one in there until I can find a brass one. I'll probably get it from Grainger and pick it up when it's convenient. I'm debating whether or not to get solid brass or chrome-plated brass.

And it was pretty nasty. I think it corroded, then snapped (and leaked), but more corrosion stopped the leak. I had a pan under the sink for a few years even though it wasn't leaking any more. I thought that it could spring a leak any time. The only reason why I finally addressed it was when I was trying to fish something out of the trap and just gave up and took it apart.

And the washers were in horrible shape. The one thing I couldn't figure out was why there weren't better materials like silicone.
 
Just a follow-up. The sucker is still leaking. It's a really flimsy looking zinc nut. I'm going to order one from Grainger. The closest one happens to be where I need to pick up a car battery, so that should make the trip worth it.
 
From my experience plastic is fine. I always pitch the plastic washers and use the rubber ones you buy separately - and don't over-tighten.
 
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