High mileage vs synthetic in mower equipment

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What s better for lawn equipment high mileage dino or semi to help with seals or a synthetic that will help remove sludge ?
 
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This should be in the OPE forum. What are you trying to do with it? Help the seals or remove sludge? If both, then high mileage oil will do the trick, since they have extra seal conditioner and cleaning agents.
 
IMHO, most lawn equipment probably would not benefit from either of those over a quality Dino oil.. but if I had to choose between the two you mention, then HM Dino.

Honestly, if I needed some oil for a gas-powered lawn more, I'd probably be just as well off taking the used oil from my car and using it in my mower, considering the overall light load placed on it while mowing the lawn.

Don't overthink this.
 
With AAP's Quaker State clearances, I have years of mower oil at approx 17 cents per OCI. Don't have to think about putting used oil from cars in there.
 
Originally Posted By: wantboost
Should I run 5w30 or 5w40
My vote for 5w40, 5w30 would OK too, some people over in the OPE part take issue of low HTHS in the 5w30 or 10w30 oils, others use it no problem at all.
 
I've been running Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 5W-30 in my mower for a few years now left over top off oil I never used. Seems to be doing just fine.
 
I just used leftover oil from an RT6 OCI I did on my mom's car, and my mower loves it. I also dumped in about 2 oz of Lubegard BioTech just for the he!! of it
smile.gif
 
I always ran a monograde in my mower. SAE 30 Pennzoil or O'Reilly brand stuff, figured a monograde was better for the high heat, high revving and slow moving, plus it being air cooled. Never once had a problem, had my riding mower since 1997 and still running like a champ.
 
I use SMB 10w30 from the Dollar Tree. It's a synthetic blend, and the 16oz bottle is the perfect size for lawn mower/small engine usage.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I always ran a monograde in my mower. SAE 30 Pennzoil or O'Reilly brand stuff, figured a monograde was better for the high heat, high revving and slow moving, plus it being air cooled. Never once had a problem, had my riding mower since 1997 and still running like a champ.
So would a full synthetic oil be able handle all that too, if not better than monograde.
 
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Originally Posted By: 69GTX
With AAP's Quaker State clearances, I have years of mower oil at approx 17 cents per OCI. Don't have to think about putting used oil from cars in there.



Wish I could catch those clearances !

Thanks , :)
 
While we are here, let's say we have a 7kW generator. Gas, air cooled. 1.1qt sump, calls for 10w-30 API SJ

They run at 3600 rpm for 10 hours a stretch sometimes at max load.

Do you go with conventional 10w-30 and change every 20 hours OR
Pick a good syn 10w-30 and run 40 hours between changes
 
Synthetic. But at the end of the day, the magneto and diodes will fry out in the generator long before the engine dies. The only trouble I have ever seen in a generator is bad gas from lack of use.
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
Most mower engines will be worn out before the gaskets start leaking.


I'd say you're right I had one mower than was 22 years old it never leaked.
 
I used to work in a large park system that used air-cooled 18-hp kohler twin cylinder engines to propel 3-wheel cushman utility carts. The oil was changed typically once a year with delo 30 weight and they ran 7-days a week almost every day there wasn't snow on the ground. I saw a few worn out engines, but it took at least 5000 hours, up to 15,000 hours. I saw one liquid-cooled Kawasaki finally peter out at 25,000 hours (and 20 years) before it just didn't have enough compression to run anymore.

The moral of the story is: change the oil once a year and most OPE will outlive you.
 
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