GM Trucks - Adjusting Parking Brake Shoes?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
4,464
Location
Guilford, CT
I'm working on the 2011 Cadillac Escalade. Does anyone have the "proper" (method from the factory service manual) way to adjust the parking brake shoes? I just replaced the parking brake shoes on my CR-V, and adjusting them afterward was a huge pain involving a lot of trial and error (parking on a hill, seeing if the car would roll, tighten some more, etc) until I finally found the proper way to do it from a service manual. I would like to avoid a lot of that hassle this time with the Escalade and get the proper way to do it from the start. The procedure should be the same for most GM trucks around the same year.
 
Does the owners manual give a # of clicks at a certain pounds of pressure?
 
Clean the ring of rust from around the parking brake drum, pop it off, adjust a couple clicks, put it back on, repeat until you feel a slight drag
 
There is a TSB for older trucks but it should work the same (parking brake shoes, rear rotor setup). Go down to Step 20 for adjustment procedures. J 21177-A refers to a special tool used to measure the inner drum diameter and shoe outer diameter.

Bulletin No.: 02-05-26-002A

Date: February, 2003

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Scraping Noise From Rear Of Vehicle
(Replace Parking Brake Shoe Kit and Clean Drum In Hat Rotor)

Models:
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Pickups
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 1500 Series Models
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Series Models
1999-2003 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Pickups
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL 1500 Series Models

This bulletin is being revised to add Suburban and Yukon XL models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-26-002 (Section 05 - Brakes).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a scraping noise from the rear of the vehicle while driving. The noise may be intermittent.

Cause
Condition may due to the parking brake shoe contacting the drum in hat rotor without the parking brake being applied, causing premature wear on the shoe lining.

Correction
Replace the parking brake shoe and install a new designed spring clip retainer. Follow the service procedure below to correct this condition.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID # 639546).

2. Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID # 656965).

3. Relieve the tension on the park brake cables by loosening the nut at the equalizer.

4. Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.

5. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.
Notice : Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

6. Remove the brake caliper and brake caliper bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.

7. Remove the rotor retaining push nuts from the wheel studs (if applicable).
Notice DO NOT use a hammer to remove the rotor from the hub; it may cause damage to the rotor.

Important : The rotor may not be easily removed from the hub due to a rust build up on the outside edge of the drum and hat portion of the rotor.

8. Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor cannot be removed from the hub by pulling on the rotor, use J 46277 rotor removal tool.

Notice : Place J 46277 between the rotor surfaces in the vent section of the rotor. DO NOT place J 46277 on the back side of the rotor surface, it may damage the rotor surface.

9. Using removal tool J 46277 on slide hammer J 6125B, remove the rotor by placing removal tool J 46277 in the vent section of the rotor at the twelve, three, six and nine o'clock positions, not necessarily in that order.

10. Clean the rust ridge from the drum portion of the rotor using a grinding stone and rotor resurfacing kit J 41013.

11. Remove the spring clip bolt (3) and retainer (2) and discard.
Important : Minimum thickness of the parking brake shoe lining in any given spot is 1.5 mm (0.06 in).

12. Measure the parking brake shoe thickness in multiple spots. Replace the parking brake shoe if the thickness is less than 1.5 mm (0.06 in). Continue with Step 14.

13. If the parking brake shoe lining is greater than 1.5 mm (0.06 in), continue with Step 19.

14. Rotate the parking brake shoe (1) out from the bottom and pull it out of the adjuster. Discard the shoe.

15. Remove the park brake shoe assembly from the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotate the shoe until it has cleared the flange.

16. Turn the adjustment screw (1) to the fully home position in the notched adjustment nut.

17. Install the new park brake shoe assembly (1) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875, to the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotating the shoe until it is behind the flange.

18. Slide the shoe into the adjuster and position the shoe to the backing plate. Install the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875. If using parking brake service kit 88982875, SKIP Step 19.

19. Replace the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3) from the parking brake retaining spring clip kit, P/N 88982879.

Tighten :Tighten the bolt (3) to 5 N.M (44 lb in).

20. Set the J 21177-A so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.

21. Position the J 21177-A over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.

Important : The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 in) of exposed thread.

The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).

22. The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 inch) of exposed thread.

Notice : Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any rust or foreign material from the mating surface of the rotor and flange with the J 42450 hub cleaning kit. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation.

23. Use the J 42450-A to clean all rust and contaminants from the mating surface of the hub flange.

24. Use the J 41013 to clean all rust and contaminants from the inside diameter of the hat section of the brake rotor to prevent any foreign material from getting between the brake rotor and the hub flange.

25. Align the mark on the rotor with the mark on the hub and install the rotor by slowly turning the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle.

26. Install the caliper and the bracket as an assembly to the vehicle.

27. Perform the following procedure before installing the caliper bracket mounting bolts.


Remove all traces of the original adhesive.


Clean the threads of the bolt with brake parts cleaner, P/N 12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463), and allow to dry.

Apply threadlocker, GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or Red LOCTITE™ # 272, to the threads of the bolt.

Notice : Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

28. Install the caliper bracket mounting bolts.

Tighten : Tighten the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts to 175 N.m (129 lb ft).

29. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the vehicle.

30. Tighten the nut to the intermediate cable at the equalizer.

Tighten : Tighten the nut to 3.5 N.m (31 lb in).

31. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID # 656965).

32. Lower the vehicle.

33. Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has been removed.

34. Fully apply and release the park brake pedal three times.
 
Last edited:
When you adjust any shoes, apply the brake after each adjustment to center the position of the shoes, then release brake and spin the drum to see how much drag. You really don't want any drag (shoe/drum noise when moving) while the park brake is released and rear caliper is off.
 
I replaced the front disk / rear drum brakes on the 2008 Silverado work truck I drive . Was 1 - 2 years ago .

Just adjusted the rear / drum brakes until there was a slight drag when I hand spun the wheel / tire . Same as I have done since I was about 16 years old .

A little drag hurts nothing , the shoes must wear in any way .

The truck has an automatic transmission . Started driving it new . Can not ever remember using the emergency brake in 160,000 + miles . Just stick it in park .
 
It's not a bad idea to use the e-brake while rolling slowly to scrape rust off the inner drum part and to deglaze the shoes.
 
I install the shoes and always use a new disc/drum, get them close with the star wheel, apply the park brake a few times then use a large caliper on the inside of the drum and set the shoes a few thousands smaller, done.

I use this 12 inch caliper.
 
You have more $$$$ in those tools than most of us Rednecks have in the vehicle . :)

Just kidding , sort of . But it is your money , have fun ! :)

Senior in High School , worked in a vocational program . 1/2 day in school , 1/2 day on a job . I worked as a go-for at the shop of a local car dealer . Also helped the mechanic as much as I got a chance .

Drum brakes much more common then . We did it pretty much as described .

I have not worked on rear disk / drum brakes . You may be correct about them .

Conventional drum brakes , the shoes do 100% of the braking , no need to periodically use them to wear off the glaze or rust .

With a manual transmission vehicle , I would use the E-brake occasionally when on an incline . Otherwise , park it in reverse . Same when I drove a delivery truck .

Best wishes , :)
 
I just bought the truck a month ago. When I bought it, I could see the rear brakes were just replaced (rotors shiny and new). So no need to replace or deglaze the rotor. I think whoever replaced the brakes didn't adjust the parking brake properly. All I know is the parking brake will not keep it from rolling down my steep driveway. The adjuster mechanism is pretty crusty, so I bought new hardware. The parking brake shoes still have lots of friction material on them, and new ones cost over $80, so I'm not replacing those yet.
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
You have more $$$$ in those tools than most of us Rednecks have in the vehicle . :)

Just kidding , sort of . But it is your money , have fun ! :)

Senior in High School , worked in a vocational program . 1/2 day in school , 1/2 day on a job . I worked as a go-for at the shop of a local car dealer . Also helped the mechanic as much as I got a chance .

Drum brakes much more common then . We did it pretty much as described .

I have not worked on rear disk / drum brakes . You may be correct about them .

Conventional drum brakes , the shoes do 100% of the braking , no need to periodically use them to wear off the glaze or rust .

With a manual transmission vehicle , I would use the E-brake occasionally when on an incline . Otherwise , park it in reverse . Same when I drove a delivery truck .

Best wishes , :)


I don't do it this way on normal drum brakes with 2 shoes (a leading and trailing) only on GM with a large horseshoe which is split in the middle.
The normal shoes you can adjust the star wheel with a spoon once the drum is on on the horse shoe you cant.
 
Well , thank you , I learned something interesting . Never worked on one like that .

We have owned several Chevy Lumina sedans . Some had rear disks , some rear drums .

The read disk brakes had a " ratcheting " mechanism with the E-brake . This screwed in / advanced / tightened the piston . So only had the 2 brake pads , no " auxiliary / secondary shoes .

Best I remember , the face of the piston had 2 holes in it . I think I used the 2 pointed tips of needle nose pliers to fit in the holes & rotate the mechanism back enough to accommodate the new pads .

I could be mistaken , been a few years .

Best wishes , :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top