1996 F150 Water pump replacement

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While changing the oil in my 1996 Ford F150 I noticed coolant dripping off the frame. This is a 302 V8 with 133,000 miles. I bought the truck used and I believe the water pump was changed in 2014 at 110,000 miles. (According to the Carfax I received)

The leak is NOT coming from the weep hole. It appears to be from the gasket itself. Researching this particular job indicates a problem with the bolts seizing into the timing chain cover and breaking when removal is attempted. The leak may be coming from the timing chain cover.

I just took another look, and I am 90% sure the timing chain cover is the source of the leak. This appears to be a Big Job.

Does anyone have any pointers?
 
Ok, I've been reading up on this and I am getting ready to tackle the job. I just placed an order with RockAuto:




I am hoping to be able to reuse the timing cover.
I still need to line up a harmonic balance puller.
 
You may want to replace the balancer while its off,rubber around the steel can slip, should be 50 ounce imbalance.May also do a timing chain while in there.
 
Originally Posted By: 9050lx
You may want to replace the balancer while its off,rubber around the steel can slip, should be 50 ounce imbalance.May also do a timing chain while in there.
I'll give you the balancer, but the chain should be fine.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I don't know why anyone would want to work on a car without the service information; makes no sense to me.


I do indeed have the factory manual on CD. I was just asking for pointers as to what to watch for or common problems not covered in the manual. Such as broken water pump bolts.
I am considering changing the timing chain set, but I plan on waiting until I have it apart to inspect the old chain.
 
Originally Posted By: 9050lx
You may want to replace the balancer while its off,rubber around the steel can slip, should be 50 ounce imbalance.May also do a timing chain while in there.


The harmonic balancer is over $200 at RockAuto. It's not getting replaced if I can keep from damaging the original one.
 
Use an air wrench or small impact to remove the bolts. Typically the quick shock will break the corrosion free without snapping the heads off... ask me how I know
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The $200 is more than 50% of the way for a high-quality balancer; the factory rubber ringed ones are junk when they were new. Make sure you get a double roller timing set and it should be the last time you need to open the front of the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: terry274
I do indeed have the factory manual on CD.


I wish you would've said that in the first place. I get anxiety attacks whenever someone starts asking for information without having a service manual.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

I wish you would've said that in the first place. I get anxiety attacks whenever someone starts asking for information without having a service manual.


Sorry
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Originally Posted By: terry274
Sorry
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It's OK. I see it all the time---people have a computer with an internet connection and yet they want to attempt servicing a car without service information. These days it's readily available. Even Alldata has a plan for about $20 a year.
 
Yeah, I sprung for the Ford Factory service manual on ebay. I run it in a Windows XP virtual machine because it will not run on anything later than XP.
It was worth every penny I paid for it, but first hand advice from people who have done the work is always welcome.
 
Powerbond makes replacement balancers (OEM type) for certain models.Check out PB1463N.Not 100% sure if it will fit yours though.Buy a quality timing chain if you can find one.A lot of the recent timing chains have excessive play when new.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I don't know why anyone would want to work on a car without the service information; makes no sense to me.
his truck is a very simple design. I see no need for service info on it. Remove the brackets that are in the way. Remove the 8 or so bolts holding the water pump. Remove it. Remove the balancer with the coreect puller. Remove the 2 corner oil pan bolts. Remove the 2 or so timing cover bolts and pull it off from the top. No need to remove the oil pan.

When ready to reassemble it clean the area where the timing cover meets the oil pan and put a smear of rtv on the oil pan side.

Install the bottom first at a 45 degree angle then the top. Put it back together.

Plan on changing the oil as you will get coolant in it.
 
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