Mid '70s John Deere C110 Top Up Oil

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Howdy! I checked the oil and it needs topped up. The oil was changed last year not under my supervision so I have no idea what weight oil or what oil brand is in it. Oil is still nice light brown, definitely less than 50 hours on it.

I have a jug of remaining Rotella T4 15w40 CJ4, would that be ok to top up with? I dislike mixing as much as the next person but I don't want to waste oil by dumping it.

Thank you!

Engine is a Kholer if that helps at all.

(I have no owner's manual for it or else I would have looked there)
 
I am not familiar with any C110 tractor.

but in general that would be fine all regular engine oils are compatible.. just not optimal to mix.
 
JD made the 110 for many years, but never heard of a c110. I owned a 1964 110 for about 5 years. The Rotella will be fine, it's what I use in all my OPE.
 
Originally Posted By: gman2304
JD made the 110 for many years, but never heard of a c110. I owned a 1964 110 for about 5 years. The Rotella will be fine, it's what I use in all my OPE.


Hmmmm, I thought there was a C beside the 110. Could be wrong!

Thanks everyone, will top away!
 
My family had a ~1970 JD 110 for many years. That baby cut a LOT of grass and threw a lot of snow. The 10hp Kohler-K series in it will spec SAE30. IMO, today's 15w40 is a better choice for it. I know our old JD in it's later days would burn 1qt every 3 tanks of fuel or so and the fuel tank wasn't very large IIRC. Back then, it would get topped up with what ever we had on hand, which was typically just automotive 10w30 or 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
110s used to have an L as a prefix and now has a D, as in D110.
Note that they keep shifting the numbers themselves around.



You are talking about the big box store (Home Depot etc...) model's. O.P. is talking about the much better built vintage machine from the 60's/early 70's. 2 totally different machine's.
 
Looking it up online on google images of the tractor, I found the exact model. It indeed doesn't say C110, but just 110.

The tractor looks like this (not as good condition as the paint has faded to a slightly less bright green lol):
jd110.jpg
 
The only bad part about the vintage 110's is the variator drive system. They had an iron beast 4spd gear drive, then you had additional ground speed options by selecting a different notch with the variator lever on the right side IIRC. This re-positioned the moveable sheave on the variator, moved the drive belt and gave you a different ground speed. Problem is, like all variator sheaves on OPE, the things lock up over time and are useless. Good thing about JDs is, it's totally user serviceable and parts can be had. Long story short. Leave the variator lever at max and don't touch it.
 
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Originally Posted By: JTK
The only bad part about the vintage 110's is the variator drive system. They had an iron beast 4spd gear drive, then you had additional ground speed options by selecting a different notch with the variator lever on the right side IIRC. This re-positioned the moveable sheave on the variator, moved the drive belt and gave you a different ground speed. Problem is, like all variator sheaves on OPE, the things lock up over time and are useless. Good thing about JDs is, it's totally user serviceable and parts can be had. Long story short. Leave the variator lever at max and don't touch it.


Yes, I leave the lever at max.

The tractor is pretty flawless in its long life. It has recently in the past 3 years needed repairs. It needed a new starter, surprised it lasted this long. Something was weird with the wiring for the tractor to start so a bypass push button starter was added. And all the belts were just replaced.

The only thing I complain about this tractor is that there must be something wrong with the clutch. It's a ghost clutch. I'll be riding along on a straight-level surface and the clutch will move by itself halfway pressed in, making the tractor move slower and I cannot force the clutch back towards me. I understand that it's supposed to slow down the tractor during descent down hills, but I don't think it should be doing that going on a flat surface. The clutch seems to have a mind of its own, presses part way in and then randomly back out, all throughout I mow the grass. I just keep it in 2nd gear and it takes awhile to move the acre lawn, but I don't need to touch the clutch practically the whole time. But if I use 3rd gear I use the clutch all the time (so I'd rather not). Never have needed to use 4th gear (way too fast) or 1st gear (crawling).
 
Originally Posted By: JeepWJ19

The only thing I complain about this tractor is that there must be something wrong with the clutch. It's a ghost clutch. I'll be riding along on a straight-level surface and the clutch will move by itself halfway pressed in, making the tractor move slower and I cannot force the clutch back towards me. I understand that it's supposed to slow down the tractor during descent down hills, but I don't think it should be doing that going on a flat surface. The clutch seems to have a mind of its own, presses part way in and then randomly back out, all throughout I mow the grass. I just keep it in 2nd gear and it takes awhile to move the acre lawn, but I don't need to touch the clutch practically the whole time. But if I use 3rd gear I use the clutch all the time (so I'd rather not). Never have needed to use 4th gear (way too fast) or 1st gear (crawling).


That's exactly what our 110 would do when it had variator sheave problems. You eventually loose clutch pedal travel 100% of the time and nearly all ground speed. I'd pull the belts off the variator, actuate the lever and see if you're getting proper movement and no binding of the sliding/moveable sheave.
 
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Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: JeepWJ19

The only thing I complain about this tractor is that there must be something wrong with the clutch. It's a ghost clutch. I'll be riding along on a straight-level surface and the clutch will move by itself halfway pressed in, making the tractor move slower and I cannot force the clutch back towards me. I understand that it's supposed to slow down the tractor during descent down hills, but I don't think it should be doing that going on a flat surface. The clutch seems to have a mind of its own, presses part way in and then randomly back out, all throughout I mow the grass. I just keep it in 2nd gear and it takes awhile to move the acre lawn, but I don't need to touch the clutch practically the whole time. But if I use 3rd gear I use the clutch all the time (so I'd rather not). Never have needed to use 4th gear (way too fast) or 1st gear (crawling).


That's exactly what our 110 would do when it had variator sheave problems. You eventually loose clutch pedal travel 100% of the time and nearly all ground speed. I'd pull the belts off the variator, actuate the lever and see if you're getting proper movement and no binding of the sliding/moveable sheave.






Yes, variator issue's. The center sliding sheave is binding up. If it has any "wobble" at all, it is worn out. The 110/112 and 200 series are old enough that good used ones are getting hard to find. The last I checked, they were still available from John Deere for about $200 iirc. Back on topic though, the old K series Kohler's do well on 15W-40 HDEO. Been using it for many years now. I tend to favor Mobil Delvac.
 
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I have a 212 with that variator drive.

I have had no issues yet.. I usually mow in 3rd on the second variator notch.

if you use the first notch(slowest) seems like the drive belt almost slips(clutch all the way out)

If I have it on the second or 3rd notch the clutch doesnt come up all the way and the belt doesnt slip at all.

I tried 2nd gear and the variator almost at max but it gets a little noisy (spins much faster?)

I just upgraded to a deere 316. Massive upgrade in convienece going to hydro transmission and power deck lift, also the 2cyl onan is abit of an upgrade over the 1cyl kohler.

The front wheels seem abit wobbly though.. and I sometimes miss the cruise control(212) vs the hydro transmission(316).

Nothing major buying a 33 year old tractor there will be some issues, but it will still be running long after homedepot tractor is junked.

Backing and turning is much faster and easier though.
 
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