Castrol Magnatec

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 9, 2017
Messages
33
Location
Houston, TX
Been searching around for a good oil to use in my wifes 2002 Sierra 1500 that does not get out much and is usually just a 15-20 minute driver to the store and back. I came across the Magnatec, which claims to keep oil on the parts that need it and its great for cars that dont heat up to their full potential. Anyone have any good experiences with this oil? I would probably get it in Full-Syn and see if my wifes truck can make that transition. I was thinking of using Max Life since I bought it with 150K on the OD and no oil history, so not having the HM in there makes me worried.

Do trucks and cars still run fine for 300K+ with full syn that is not HM?
 
Does this vehicle burn or leak any oil?? If not then Castrol Magnatec 5w30 would be a fine choice for it. High mileage oils are used to slow down maybe even stop leaks/seeps and help with a vehicle if it is burning some oil too. Speaking of Castrol Magnatec 5w30 I just got a five qt container yesterday.
 
1. Theres a lot of guys on here with 300k+ that have never ran a HM oil.
2. Magnatec is a great oil.
3. Depending on the weight it either comes in Full Syn, or part synthetic. Not both.
4. Max Life is a great oil too.

How long are you gonna go before changing oil? 3k? 5k? 15k? These are the first questions you need to ask your self.

Working at walmart ive put full synthetic into 300k+ cars that have leaks and it leaks most of the oil out before the next oil change. Then blame it on the oil being junk oil. Nope, blame it on your own ignorance.
 
I just started using Magnatech with my last oil change. My car has a little over 158k right now and no leaks or excess oil burning as of yet. I have 5600 miles since my last change and the oil level is only about an 1/8" or so below the full line on the dipstick. I also work part time at a local lube shop and we have some customers who come in with well over 300k and 400k using our bulk oil. It's really about regularly maintaining the vehicles, not trying to cure a problem after it's happened.

L8R,
Matt
 
Oil / filter is cheap insurance when you compare it to the cost of an engine / car . The more frequent you change it , the more / better the insurance ( with in reason ) .

How much insurance do you feel you need ?

I am old school . Change oil / filter on our little red Chevy Sonic at 55% & 5% on the Oil Life Monitor . Changing it too often ? Probably , but DIY , I get a synthetic oil / DEXOS & filter change for under $ 30 .

As I said , cheap insurance .

Best of luck to all of you , :)
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Oil / filter is cheap insurance when you compare it to the cost of an engine / car . The more frequent you change it , the more / better the insurance ( with in reason ) .

How much insurance do you feel you need ?

I am old school . Change oil / filter on our little red Chevy Sonic at 55% & 5% on the Oil Life Monitor . Changing it too often ? Probably , but DIY , I get a synthetic oil / DEXOS & filter change for under $ 30 .

As I said , cheap insurance .

Best of luck to all of you , :)

I agree.

The oil life monitors used today are using different parameters across the manufacturers. In the U.S., almost any decision made in the corporate world is heavily (almost completely)influenced by liability. TPMS are in cars because they are required by law. However, it also lets a manufacturer off the hook. This would also apply to OLM's. Do they provide a useful function? Maybe. However, in the end, it is just an easy way for the manufacturer to say, "Your engine blew up because you went 25,000 miles past 0%". And believe, there are lots of people running around ignoring the OLM, just as they ignore the TPMS, Check Engine, and everything else. The OLM is really just a version of the lowest common denominator.
I always hear and read one here and other forums about how the manufacturer knows best. Really. With the incredibly ever-increasingly stringent emissions and mileage standards imposed in a relatively very short time period, many manufacturers are hustling JUST to keep everything together. This isn't just in the automotive world, it also applies to the commercial and industrial world. Durability, in MANY applications, has dropped significantly from 10-12-15 years ago.
It is your call how often you change oil. I think most people on this board realize more frequent oil changes could be a "waste" of money. That's all it is, if that. So the [censored] what.
Instead of spending(wasting)money on 10 UOA's in 50,000 miles to see how long you can stretch your OCI, why don't you take that money and just change your oil?
While on my rant
smile.gif
, this commonly repeated statement that fuel dilution and viscosity being out of grade is "normal" is [censored]. It may regularly happen on DI or GTDI engines now, but it is not "normal" by any means. These little automotive engines don't have huge sump capacities that would allow for things to be out of spec for very long.
Just because you do UOA's on YOUR engine, and you THINK your wear levels are okay, doesn't translate as that being okay in someone else's engine/driving situation.
I have done multiple UOA's on our two new Ford 2.7's, and I am actually kind of stunned(and I shouldn't be) about how much the oil gets degraded over a short amount of miles. Coming from a 2014 Edge 3.5 and 2013 F-150 5.0, which were "old school" injected engines, I haven't seen automotive oil samples like this for a long time. From what I have read, this is very common on GTDI and DI engines. We will probably never have access to any of the manufacturer's data on what is going on(see "liability" above), but the easy (and really only) way to MITIGATE any of this is to change my oil.
If you want to feel green, if you change your oil more often, you are increasing the quality of the base stock in re-cycled oil!
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Does this vehicle burn or leak any oil?? If not then Castrol Magnatec 5w30 would be a fine choice for it. High mileage oils are used to slow down maybe even stop leaks/seeps and help with a vehicle if it is burning some oil too. Speaking of Castrol Magnatec 5w30 I just got a five qt container yesterday.

My 4.2 V6 has 140K miles on it. It doesn't leak or burn oil. But, it's running HM oil.
Why? Because I found it on sale at DG, BOGO FREE!
 
I want to use Magnatec in my engine next OCI. Every time I go to WM to buy some they are sold out.
Does Castrol Magnatec come in syn blend or synthetic?
Oh, and I will be using a NEW FU oil filter as well.

34.gif
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Nothing wrong with that BlueOvalFitter
smile.gif


Roll on!

When they had that sale it was $3 a qt. limit 12. I went back the next day and they were sold out, even at other DG stores.
Is Magnatec a syn blend, full synthetic, or both?
 
Newer Magnatec is a full synthetic oil. The older stuff is a blend. I was surprised yesterday at O Reilly's when I got the Castrol Magnatec 5w30 it was the full synthetic version. Rather pleased with that.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Newer Magnatec is a full synthetic oil. The older stuff is a blend. I was surprised yesterday at O Reilly's when I got the Castrol Magnatec 5w30 it was the full synthetic version. Rather pleased with that.

Every time I go to WM the shelf is EMPTY! I'm thinking about ordering some from AMAZON or EBAY.
I see you're using the GTX ULTRACLEAN. How is that working out for you?
 
I am very pleased with the Castrol Ultraclean 5w30. It has been added to my list of oils to run in my car. The VOA researcher did showed a very nice additive package. Funny it is not all to different than Pennzoil conventional oil now.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top