How much antiseize do you usually use?

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1. Just a dab on the item
2. Some rubbed into some of the threads on one side
3. A small amount all around the item
4. I slather it all over!
 
Spark plugs just two little tiny dabs 180 degrees apart at the beginning of the threads. All bolts get two big dabs 180 degrees apart at the beginning of the threads. Not saying that's the best way. Just the way I do it.
 
I put a dab then use a dry part of the brush to spread it all around the threads.
The only thing I put it on is O2 sensors.
I dont need any help pulling the threads out of a mod motor head.
And it makes wheel lugs feel grody and packed with [censored]
 
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Usually none. Can't get it here.

I use various improvised substitutes like PTFE or polythene film, wax, grease, aluminium foil, or a rub with an old tyre weight, depending on the application.

I have a very small and locally irreplacable tube of Permatex Silver that I use very sparingly on critical applications like brake sliders.
 
Depends on how hard the bolt was to get out. Sometimes I just stick the bolt in my little tub of Permatex Copper.

Otherwise, just a dab with the brush.

I try to clean the threads before adding anti-seize too.
 
I use just enough to get it smeared everywhere including my face, pants, hands, and a dozen other places I can get it back on me throughout the day and all that takes is picking up the bottle. I smear everything up real good.
 
How much paint do you use when you put a coat of paint on something ? That's how much I use while applying anti-seize with an acid brush. I get the feeling a lot of people don't know what an acid brush is.

acid-brush-large.jpg
 
For exhaust studs I dab a liberal amount on the studs and face of the nuts. For O2 sensors a bead half a grain of rice amount pressed onto the threads. None on spark plugs.
 
#2 or a little more bordering on #3, plus a generous coating on my clothes and tools and garage floor...it works, my pants nor tools have rusted to the garage floor.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Usually none. Can't get it here.

I use various improvised substitutes like PTFE or polythene film, wax, grease, aluminium foil, or a rub with an old tyre weight, depending on the application.

I have a very small and locally irreplacable tube of Permatex Silver that I use very sparingly on critical applications like brake sliders.


Taiwan is surrounded by ocean. Are you sure you can't get a "marine" grade at a boating supply?

Extraordinary.

Why would it not be available?
 
If it's something heavily exposed to the elements like exhaust fasteners I'll slather it all over.

Most of it will get burned off but it provides better than nothing protection (even if it does little more than nothing). I find that the fasteners closest to the engine burn all but a small amount of the anti-seize (touching it will still transfer to hand) but the sacrificial metals remain to protect. The fasteners farthest from the engine like the muffler ones remain like they were just put on it, none of it appears to burn off since the muffler area is fairly cool compared to the cat at the front. I like having them slathered for protection. I have Fluid Film, might try slathering the stuff on the rear with that instead and just put AS on the threads.

If it's something sensitive like an A/F or O2 sensor placed before or between catalyst beds, where some metals can poison the catalyst, I put a super thin amount on the threads only.
 
I just follow the directions... a bottle of ARP Ultra-torque I bought says to wipe an even amount on the threads, underside of the bolt head, and on the faces of the washer (if used). Considering they've invested more time, money, and brain power working on these things, I'll trust their recommendation.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
How much paint do you use when you put a coat of paint on something ? That's how much I use while applying anti-seize with an acid brush. I get the feeling a lot of people don't know what an acid brush is.

acid-brush-large.jpg



Au contraire. I have a big bag of those in my tool chest in my garage, and they are exactly what I use to apply anti-seize whenever I use it.
 
Depends on what I am applying it to.

Spark plugs just a very small dab. Most plugs are already coated so to much will mess with the torque specs and can lead to stripped heads.

But for suspension bolt bodies, exhaust, etc... I slather it on. I had to cut a grade 10 bolt off a Honda accord yesterday that was locked in the control arm. Took a 1 day job to 5 days as I wait for a stupid bolt to get here.
 
Does anti seize work on exhaust studs? I would think the heat cycling would melt it out over time. The best thing I've found for exhaust studs is those long brass nuts or the copper one in my BMW. Jimzz, next time you need a bolt try your local Ace hardware.
 
Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Usually none. Can't get it here.

I use various improvised substitutes like PTFE or polythene film, wax, grease, aluminium foil, or a rub with an old tyre weight, depending on the application.

I have a very small and locally irreplacable tube of Permatex Silver that I use very sparingly on critical applications like brake sliders.


Taiwan is surrounded by ocean. Are you sure you can't get a "marine" grade at a boating supply?

Extraordinary.

Why would it not be available?


Never heard of Marine grade antiseize, though I daresay it exists. Don't quite get the "If you can't find something that should be common, look for something that should be rather obscure" strategy.

Anyway, it isn't just me. That could just be a lack of language and contacts. British mechanic that runs a car-sourcing business here told me he had to import it specially and the importer told him he was the only user he was aware of in Taiwan. Special brake greases likewise.

Its unsurprising it isn't available in DIY consumer quantities since there are no DIY consumers, (There's very little "boating" either, since it was illegal until fairly recently) but the above suggests the pro's don't use it either, which would be surprising if you'd never encountered a Taiwanese mechanic.

However, I did track down a rather rusty 1kg tin (which may be the only one in Taiwan), but I didn't buy it since I'd got pretty comfortable with the improvisations by then and it would have lasted me until the heat death of the universe.

Why? um..a certain lack of..er..professionalism, I suppose.
 
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