How to remove rusted 8mm bolt remnant?

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Try to remove all the head. It's the tension of the head against the surface that binds most screws in place.

After that, you can try the weld trick, or you can drive one of the many kinds of "EZ Out" tools into it. These are generally Left Hand Thread tapered, tempered screws that you spin counterclockwise, the idea is to bind in the whole and unscrew the drilled-out remains of the bolt.
 
Don't like the threaded EZ out things. They often don't grip, and if they do you risk breaking them off and then you've just armoured the fastner that you might have to drill out.

The fluted extractors that you hammer into a drilled hole have sometimes worked for me.

Drilling out with a reverse threaded bit is often recommended and makes sense, since you have to drill anyway, but I havn't been able to find those here.
 
I'd use a Proto extractor.

8496886-23.jpg
 
I would give the remainder of the bolt a good squirt of PB Blaster . Maybe repeat at several intervals then try the square tool that is pictured in the previous quote .
 
If its in aluminum and broke on removal you probably have zero chance with an extractor unless your very lucky. I use a very small left handed bit and get it dead straight then open the hole a drill size at a time until is almost all gone then pick the threads out with a hardened pick.
Don't drill too deep, use an old bolt to figure out how much is left in there and mark your drill bit. I had to do this on 8 manifold bolts, it came out perfect and I was able to use the original threads, we do it almost daily in the rust belt.
You could also drill it smooth if you buggered the drilling and use a helicoil.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Don't like the threaded EZ out things. They often don't grip, and if they do you risk breaking them off and then you've just armoured the fastner that you might have to drill out.

The fluted extractors that you hammer into a drilled hole have sometimes worked for me.

Drilling out with a reverse threaded bit is often recommended and makes sense, since you have to drill anyway, but I havn't been able to find those here.


Likewise, I did break one left handed extractor one and it's still inside the drilled hole of the remnants of the bolt.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
If its in aluminum and broke on removal you probably have zero chance with an extractor unless your very lucky. I use a very small left handed bit and get it dead straight then open the hole a drill size at a time until is almost all gone then pick the threads out with a hardened pick.
Don't drill too deep, use an old bolt to figure out how much is left in there and mark your drill bit. I had to do this on 8 manifold bolts, it came out perfect and I was able to use the original threads, we do it almost daily in the rust belt.
You could also drill it smooth if you buggered the drilling and use a helicoil.


Thanks Trav. I was able to drill a small hole and was able to go through on the other side, then used a left handed bit and now broke left handed bit inside it.

Also, what do you mean by hardened pick?Just regular pick? I'll use your trick and see if I have any luck.

Should I again start the drilling on it now?

I don't have access to a welder
frown.gif
 
If you have a broken off pick in there , it will require a VERY GOOD bit to make any progress .

Perhaps if you can use a torch & heat it ul pat least red hot & let it cool as slowly as possible , you can take some of the hardness out ?

Might experement on the part of the extractor you broke off ?

Sounds like this will not be a fun / easy time .

I think some machine shops may have a device that uses a very strong arc / spark to " burn it our ?

https://www.google.com/search?q=electric...&channel=fs
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: Trav
If its in aluminum and broke on removal you probably have zero chance with an extractor unless your very lucky. I use a very small left handed bit and get it dead straight then open the hole a drill size at a time until is almost all gone then pick the threads out with a hardened pick.
Don't drill too deep, use an old bolt to figure out how much is left in there and mark your drill bit. I had to do this on 8 manifold bolts, it came out perfect and I was able to use the original threads, we do it almost daily in the rust belt.
You could also drill it smooth if you buggered the drilling and use a helicoil.


Thanks Trav. I was able to drill a small hole and was able to go through on the other side, then used a left handed bit and now broke left handed bit inside it.

Also, what do you mean by hardened pick?Just regular pick? I'll use your trick and see if I have any luck.

Should I again start the drilling on it now?

I don't have access to a welder
frown.gif



Good picks are hardened steel but some cheap ones will bend and not hardened. Craftsman has some decent ones but don't bother with HF ones or their bits.
So now you have a bit broken off in one and an extractor in the other?
The only bit that will go through both is a solid carbide bit but Jesus don't break that off in there or you will need an electron drill (AKA Elox or tap burner).
It sounds like you got a pretty deep hole dug so its time to stop digging and rethink the situation.
 
Not at all Trav, it's just one bolt and can make my life easy if I can extract it.

Let me explain and I would truly appreciate some help.

One of the bolt head sheared/snapped:



That's the size of it:



I was able to drill a hole through the remnant and then was using a left handed bit/bolt extractor of Harbor Freight, utizling open end wrench and that snapped inside it.
 
Remove the rest of the bolts and take the cover off. You may be able to use a stud remover to get the rest out. If not you are going to need a good drill bit to drill out the hardened extractor.
 
It looks like a stud remover isn't going to work, that is one of the cover bolts not one of the bolts that hold the valve in. I would pull the valve out and either take it somewhere to get some help with a torch or put it in a vice and drill it on out.
 
If you have access to other side of the hole, try pushing the EZ out out with a punch. Be careful of the cover. Use a light hammer to tap it loose. Had you just drilled the bolt out you'd be done probably
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
If you have access to other side of the hole, try pushing the EZ out out with a punch. Be careful of the cover. Use a light hammer to tap it loose. Had you just drilled the bolt out you'd be done probably


I believe, have access from the other side. You are so right, wish I didn't have use EZ out. Will give it a go too.
 
Since it's a HF extractor, a good Cobalt bit will do as well, and may be cheaper than a carbide. You might need to grind a dimple first, to help you get started on center. Fortunately, it looks like you have some room to work.

I will have to temper my future advice with "don't use a cheap-[censored] HF extractor." I've been fortunate, the last several stuck bolts have come out just from left handed drilling with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9GAQ3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the 12 pack for $10 delivered during one of Amazon's crazy price swings.
grin.gif


That might be a bit large for you, but you get the idea. Short. Left Hand. Hard. Quality.
 
I need to find another bit. Thanks for the suggestions. Yeah it was my mistake, HF is good for bolts which aren't really stuck!
 
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