How often do you use anti seize or a torque wrench

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
8,145
Location
Michigan
Reading some posts here and it made me think of the above question.

1. I have never owned a torque wrench.
2. I have rarely used anti seize but did when I changed the plugs on both cars recently.
 
Anti-seize on wheel rims to rotor surface and spark plugs. Torque wheel lugs and all assemblies that have a torque value that I reach. Ed
 
I tow a few different trailers, I use a torque wrench on their lug nuts at the beginning of each trip.
 
I typically use antisieze to "fix" fasteners that are so rusted their running torque is way higher than it should be. Also sometimes on exhaust fasteners.

Torque wrench absolutely on engine work (head studs, rod caps), axle nuts, lug nuts.
 
If i think i will ever need to disassemble it , it gets anti-seize. I use a torque wrench on lugs, head bolts, intake bolts. I don't bother with spark plugs or drain bolts.
 
I use torque wrenches on critical fasteners just about any time it is possible. I have a tendency to over tighten things on any kind of threaded fastener. With spark plugs, access is sometimes limited so you have to wing it. If you have the tool, why not use it? I'm not on any time clock while DIYing. Another OCD thing I do when a torque wrench is not an option on a critical fastener is put a punch mark on the nut or bolt and at least tighten back to this mark. If I feel it was too loose to start with, at least I have a reference and might adjust it tighter. I've also been known to put sharpie or paint marks on things that tend to vibrate loose so that I can easily do a visual walk-by check. I've had things loosen on my workplace ag. equipment, so I am a bit paranoid and try to keep an eye on things that can go awry.

I use antiseize occasionally and very sparingly. Its a judgement call. I also coat some parts very thinly with a water proof paste lube to eliminate rust: hubs, rotor hats, etc..
 
I don't use much never seize. I do use a lot of chassis grease on stuff I want to get off. I borrowed my BIL's Torque wrench to replace a head and cams. If the bolt has a spring washer on it, tightening past flattening the washer is risking a shear.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
If i think i will ever need to disassemble it , it gets anti-seize. I use a torque wrench on lugs, head bolts, intake bolts. I don't bother with spark plugs or drain bolts.


+1
smile.gif
 
I have used M1 Syn grease on some suspension bolts so they will come off easier next time.
Will probably start using more anti seize.
I really don't do any heavy engine type work where torque specifics are required.
 
I use both often. I like things that come apart when they're supposed to w/o heat, cheater bars, or penetrating oil. I also like to avoid over or under tightening important items.
 
Torque wrench, often. Antisieze, never. Maybe it's necessary further North where cars rust into a pile in 5 years, but I've never found it to be necessary in the regions where I've lived.
 
I use both fairly regularly.

When I wrench on bicycles, it's mostly grease and an inch pound torque wrench. Gotta protect those fine threads and exotic materials.

Where I work, we have three huge Carrier chillers. Every year, we pull the heads and clean the tubes. When the guys put the heads back on, they coat the bolts with so much Nev R Sieze it covers everything in it and makes a huge mess. I've tried explaining to them that they shouldn't do that going into blind holes because of hydraulicing and false readings. Problem is, the guy that specified this originally had no clue and the younger guys just follow instructions. They probably use 75% more than is needed to get the job done properly.
 
Torque wrench, much of the time, depending on what I'm doing.

As for anti-seize, I use the one that's included with oxygen sensors when replacing those. No anti-seize on spark plugs, since I usually use NGK. For other bolts, I use a light coat of oil on the threads when I think it's necessary.
 
I don't torque spark plugs or drain plugs. I do torque all wheel nuts and critical fasteners. I use anti seize and thread locker when the FSM calls for it on fasteners and I do use anti seize on all spark plugs. I also turn oil filters about a 1/2 turn with a wrench after hand tight.
 
Last edited:
I use a torque wrench on anything I can find a torque spec for. I always use one on spark plugs, lug nuts, and drain plugs most of the time. Always use one on suspension and brake fasteners. Also always use it on engine components like valve covers, intake manifolds, and water pumps.

Anti-seize is like hot sauce for me: I put that stuff on everything!. If anything was rusty and difficult to remove, it gets anti-seize before going back on. Just about any fastener underneath a vehicle gets anti-seize. Hub faces also get a coat of anti-seize to prevent rotors/drums from sticking. Exhaust hardware absolutely always gets anti-seize.
 
I use a torque wrench whenever I change a tire. Anti-seize whenever a steel threaded part goes into aluminum.
 
Originally Posted By: NYEngineer
I use both fairly regularly.

When I wrench on bicycles, it's mostly grease and an inch pound torque wrench. Gotta protect those fine threads and exotic materials.

Where I work, we have three huge Carrier chillers. Every year, we pull the heads and clean the tubes. When the guys put the heads back on, they coat the bolts with so much Nev R Sieze it covers everything in it and makes a huge mess. I've tried explaining to them that they shouldn't do that going into blind holes because of hydraulicing and false readings. Problem is, the guy that specified this originally had no clue and the younger guys just follow instructions. They probably use 75% more than is needed to get the job done properly.


I'm a Service Engineer with Carrier Commercial Service. We see this a lot. What Chillers? 19 series?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top