spark plug help - am I in trouble?

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So I was bored today and decided to go ahead and change the spark plugs in our 2006 Honda Pilot at 96K miles. First one comes out and new one goes back in just fine. Then I move to the middle plug in the front bank and as soon as it broke loose, I could tell something was wrong. It feels as if it is crossthreaded or something. Makes a very slight grinding noise if I try to loosen it anymore and I can't loosen by hand. If I try to tighten it back up, same thing. I haven't turned it much since I could tell as soon as it broke loose something was off. What do I now? Keep loosening it with the wrench or am I just doomed for a more expensive repair by my mechanic?
 
Well, I own a 2008. All 6 of mine came out OK.
I have heard around here that our generations' Pilot's may have the ability to spit plugs due to them not being tightened down properly at the factory. I took mine out at 90k and all were tight.
Perhaps you had a loose one, and it cracked due to vibration, and you finished the "cracking."
I would research (sorry you are in Houston) mobile spark plug removal (think the Ford trucks with the plug issues) around you and I bet they can help.
 
Spray for WD40 and work it back and forth to see that helps.
I usually spray some penetrating oil before I start removing them.
 
Pour a few drops of oil down the spark plug hole and let it sit, or some Liquid Wrench or something.
 
I'd try the oil. I think there's a good chance there's carbon deposits holding it in. I just the ones in my Liberty and some made some interesting noises coming out, but I just would loosen a bit, tighten a bit till they came out ok.
 
I always use some PB Blaster on a hot engine before removing spark plugs after engine has cooled down. The grinding could just be a bit of carbon built up on the end of the plug. Oil it a little then remove it.
 
It looks like most of you were right about it just needing some penetrating oil. Rather than waiting overnight I went ahead and tested it and it seems 3 hours of soaking in WD40 "specialist" penetrating oil was enough to solve the issue. The plug came out smoothly. You could tell a difference in the discoloration and slight amount of carbon on this plug versus the first so it seems that's all the issue was. I broke the remaining 4 loose and are letting them soak now. Thanks for the responses.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Make sure you use anti-seize compound on the new plugs.


+1 and as posted just a little on the threads and tighten the plugs just tight don't wrench them in. Waiting for the never use anti seize gang to chime in.
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Make sure you use anti-seize compound on the new plugs.


+1 and as posted just a little on the threads and tighten the plugs just tight don't wrench them in. Waiting for the never use anti seize gang to chime in.
lol.gif



IIRC NGK is a gang member.
 
I've never used anti-seize, but I cant think of a downside to it, unless you use a torque wrench on your plugs, which I donr.

I'd probably use the aluminium stuff in preference to the copper.
 
I had a similar situation replacing the plugs in my S10 on cylinder 3, there wasn't an audible crack, but it was very difficult to remove. I would back it out a little bit and re-tighten. Loosen further and repeat. It eventually came out and the new plug went in with no issue, probably the last plugs the tired motor will see before replacement anyways. The old plugs had anti-seize on them, but the threads were caked in crud (yes I cleaned out around the plugs before going in). Not saying this method will work for you, but I would probably have a helicoil kit handy if you're going any further.
 
Originally Posted By: berniedd
Just for the record,guys, what torque should czbrian use for his Pilot's spark plugs if he didn't use antiseize?


I don't generally use a torque wrench on plugs because the torque value is usually usually so low that you almost need a wrench in inch-lbs to get an accurate torque reading. Plus, I've worked on transverse V engines where even getting a torque wrench on them would be a nightmare.

FWIW, though, I have always heard 10 ft-lbs as a general rule of thumb.

The other rule of thumb I've heard on a new plug is 1/4 turn past finger tight. This is to crush the crush washer to make sure they seal.

For myself, I use a stubby socket wrench and choke up on the head with my left hand(non-dominant). I tighten tight for this.
 
Originally Posted By: berniedd
Just for the record,guys, what torque should czbrian use for his Pilot's spark plugs if he didn't use antiseize?


This is what the factory manual says for an 06 MDX, basically same engine.

Quote:
Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to
the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Then torque them to
18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 lbf·ft).


I find it strange that Honda calls for anti-seize, while NGK does not. But Honda lists either NGK or Denso plugs. I use 18 lb.ft without anti-seize with NGK plugs.
 
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On the Honda bikes I have owned new one spec'd a drop of engine oil on the threads (convenient to get a drop of the oil dipstick when on the road) the other ones spec anti seize and they were also plated NGK.
Its not hard to figure out why NGK make this statement, its a question of legal responsibility so they leave it up to the manufacturers and absolve themselves of any.
 
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