Protecting steel tubing

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The transmission lines on the explorer were weeping (and the ps too, replaced those).

I got a nice set of cooler lines from Dorman, all prebent and the price was very decent. Ford actually sells them too, a bit more, they interchange to the 11 Rangers. A local shop said they keep a few sets in stock.
My ex don't have a cooler, and I reach over 200 sometimes on hills. and these lines allow you to install one. So for under 100 I got a Hayden 679 and all the lines. An OEM ranger/Explorer cooler is pretty large, probably equal to the largest Hayden I got.

Anyway they are bare steel lines, and I'm thinking of 3/4 1:3 ratio shrink wrap to protect them. The shrink wrap also has an adhesive to further protect.
The areas they pass thru are hot, and fluid film will probably burn off. Hot can only make it shrink more I guess...
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:
 
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I just used rubber hose when I replaced mine. The high temp split loom would work if you want the steel lines.
 
The problem with rubber hose or split loom around steel tubing is that they trap moisture and salt and actually promote corrosion, you will be better off not using them.
The heat shrink will work what they cover but there will be a gap where they end near the fittings and the exposed steel tubing will rust there.
I use NiCopp wherever possible and keep steel lines wet with rustproofing oil.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
The problem with rubber hose or split loom around steel tubing is that they trap moisture and salt and actually promote corrosion, you will be better off not using them.
The heat shrink will work what they cover but there will be a gap where they end near the fittings and the exposed steel tubing will rust there.
I use NiCopp wherever possible and keep steel lines wet with rustproofing oil.


True, I had coated lines fail around the fitting. I'm thinking rtv could be a solution. That + shrinkwrap.
 
You guys in the rust / salt belt certainly have my best wishes & sympathy .

I would never even think about something like that .
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
BTW, it is shrink tubing, not shrink wrap. Shrink wrap comes in film form and you wrap it around an object.

Good point, I am considering the polyolefin stuff for wires.

Says good till 275.
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:


This. Unless it's a built up show truck you can only put so much into one before some texting teenager comes along and plows into it. Some insurance companies allow to insure vehicle above their bluebook value (at extra cost of course) but I doubt you're carrying comp insurance on it as is since the book is probably under $1500 by now.
 
Originally Posted By: Dave9
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:


This. Unless it's a built up show truck you can only put so much into one before some texting teenager comes along and plows into it. Some insurance companies allow to insure vehicle above their bluebook value (at extra cost of course) but I doubt you're carrying comp insurance on it as is since the book is probably under $1500 by now.

I do carry comp insurance, it cost less than an AAA membership and they include towing. I have a $100 deductible too. I guess they know what it is worth. Collision isn't much more, for all I did to the truck it is worth it. Both of them are under 50 bucks a year.

Getting that crazy shaped tube in wasn't pretty and I think whatever coating would scrape off. Flare fittings on trans lines are also a horrible idea. Getting them off in that tight area was nearly impossible. One came off with a 5/8" flare from the bottom, another I was fortunate to be able to hammer on a 15mm crowfoot thru the wheel well. I soaked it for a week in every penetrant too, and it took a bit of force. The tube split as soon as the nut moved, probably ready to dump the fluid any minute.

Almost 5 hours to do the job. I got labor quotes of 5-600 bucks, some places said they may have to drop the tranny. I was considering rubber splices and a ferrule but the flare end was weeping.

Ford changed to quick connects on later models, I'm sure there are corrosion issues but it can't be as bad as a flare. Getting it in to line up with the new tube is terrible too. The prebent tube also bends a bit when you install so it has to be rebent slightly. At one point I was tempted to cut and flare it in the center.
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: Dave9
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:


This. Unless it's a built up show truck you can only put so much into one before some texting teenager comes along and plows into it. Some insurance companies allow to insure vehicle above their bluebook value (at extra cost of course) but I doubt you're carrying comp insurance on it as is since the book is probably under $1500 by now.

I do carry comp insurance, it cost less than an AAA membership and they include towing. I have a $100 deductible too. I guess they know what it is worth. Collision isn't much more, for all I did to the truck it is worth it. Both of them are under 50 bucks a year.


BUT, their valuation of it only considers a median vehicle, not the better state of one for an owner that takes the amount of time you do to consider repairs to this extent. I'm in the same boat, also own a 2nd gen Explorer and cannot buy an equivalent vehicle with what my insurance company valuation is on it, and that disparity grows larger every year because I don't put many miles on that vehicle these days, yet not depending on it as anyone's daily driver, allows for more refurbishment and upgrades than if it were.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Gear oil would coat it. Smelly though

My front axle vent sat on the old lines, and these axles throw out some gear oil by design (I think there is some baffle they could install). About 2 feet of the lines looked brand new! I'm going to brush some on. Gear oil isn't going anywhere, especially when it gets a layer of crud.

Painting isn't an option really because the paint would have been scratched on install, and now they are all greasy anyway, in very hard to reach areas.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
You could paint it with POR-15. or maybe Plasti Dip ?


FYI: Plasti Dip isn't a good idea because of the temperature. ATF out the unit could easily be 200F, plus the lines are very close to the exhaust:
It has been tested and proven in temperatures from -30 deg F (degree Fahrenheit) to 200 deg F (degree Fahrenheit).

Por-15 is usually for rust and needs a lot of prep.

Going to go with Fluid film or gear oil. I coat the truck anyway. Not looking for perfection at that age. I'm sure it will last the few years I have the truck. The elements are going to destroy the rest of it anyway.
 
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POR-15 isn't only used on rusty parts.

You could also try some Fluid Film. It stays in place and is easy to use.
 
The absolute best is a minor transmission leak. The shifter seal or a weepy lip seal,or an out put seal. Constant ATF change at a pint a month and a chassis dripping rust free.
 
Heat shrink tubing is a brilliant idea.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
The problem with rubber hose or split loom around steel tubing is that they trap moisture and salt and actually promote corrosion, you will be better off not using them.
The heat shrink will work what they cover but there will be a gap where they end near the fittings and the exposed steel tubing will rust there.
I use NiCopp wherever possible and keep steel lines wet with rustproofing oil.


Agree I'd probably paint at least with cold zinc galvanizing spray, then coat with a waxy rustproofing spray. That can be maintenance coated with FF or an oily coating.
 
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