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#4503216 - 08/31/17 10:57 AM Protecting steel tubing
ford46guy Offline


Registered: 06/01/13
Posts: 525
Loc: Albany, NY
The transmission lines on the explorer were weeping (and the ps too, replaced those).

I got a nice set of cooler lines from Dorman, all prebent and the price was very decent. Ford actually sells them too, a bit more, they interchange to the 11 Rangers. A local shop said they keep a few sets in stock.
My ex don't have a cooler, and I reach over 200 sometimes on hills. and these lines allow you to install one. So for under 100 I got a Hayden 679 and all the lines. An OEM ranger/Explorer cooler is pretty large, probably equal to the largest Hayden I got.

Anyway they are bare steel lines, and I'm thinking of 3/4 1:3 ratio shrink wrap to protect them. The shrink wrap also has an adhesive to further protect.
The areas they pass thru are hot, and fluid film will probably burn off. Hot can only make it shrink more I guess...
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:


Edited by ford46guy (08/31/17 10:58 AM)
_________________________
95 Tbird V8 240K PP SYNTH ULTRA 5W30
98 MGM 160K M1 HM 5W20
96 Explorer EB V6 159K PP SYNTH HM 5W30
95 Conti 155K MC 5W20
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#4503224 - 08/31/17 11:06 AM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 5750
Loc: Illinois
I just used rubber hose when I replaced mine. The high temp split loom would work if you want the steel lines.
_________________________
2008 Hyundai Accent 1.6L 5 sp manual hatchback
2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Track 2L Turbo 6sp manual

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#4503239 - 08/31/17 11:16 AM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
George7941 Offline


Registered: 05/10/05
Posts: 2158
Loc: Toronto, Canada
The problem with rubber hose or split loom around steel tubing is that they trap moisture and salt and actually promote corrosion, you will be better off not using them.
The heat shrink will work what they cover but there will be a gap where they end near the fittings and the exposed steel tubing will rust there.
I use NiCopp wherever possible and keep steel lines wet with rustproofing oil.
_________________________
2006 GMC Sierra 4.3l, NV3500,G80 , Mobil 1 5W30, Dexcool.
1987 BMW R80 - sold
2015 Honda CBR300R

Staying out of the right lane a lot.

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#4503253 - 08/31/17 11:26 AM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: George7941]
ford46guy Offline


Registered: 06/01/13
Posts: 525
Loc: Albany, NY
Originally Posted By: George7941
The problem with rubber hose or split loom around steel tubing is that they trap moisture and salt and actually promote corrosion, you will be better off not using them.
The heat shrink will work what they cover but there will be a gap where they end near the fittings and the exposed steel tubing will rust there.
I use NiCopp wherever possible and keep steel lines wet with rustproofing oil.


True, I had coated lines fail around the fitting. I'm thinking rtv could be a solution. That + shrinkwrap.
_________________________
95 Tbird V8 240K PP SYNTH ULTRA 5W30
98 MGM 160K M1 HM 5W20
96 Explorer EB V6 159K PP SYNTH HM 5W30
95 Conti 155K MC 5W20
11 GS350 90K PP HM 5W30

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#4503256 - 08/31/17 11:28 AM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
WyrTwister Offline


Registered: 01/13/13
Posts: 1531
Loc: Texas
You guys in the rust / salt belt certainly have my best wishes & sympathy .

I would never even think about something like that .
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Wyr
God bless

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#4503279 - 08/31/17 11:48 AM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
George7941 Offline


Registered: 05/10/05
Posts: 2158
Loc: Toronto, Canada
BTW, it is shrink tubing, not shrink wrap. Shrink wrap comes in film form and you wrap it around an object.
_________________________
2006 GMC Sierra 4.3l, NV3500,G80 , Mobil 1 5W30, Dexcool.
1987 BMW R80 - sold
2015 Honda CBR300R

Staying out of the right lane a lot.

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#4503295 - 08/31/17 11:59 AM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: George7941]
ford46guy Offline


Registered: 06/01/13
Posts: 525
Loc: Albany, NY
Originally Posted By: George7941
BTW, it is shrink tubing, not shrink wrap. Shrink wrap comes in film form and you wrap it around an object.

Good point, I am considering the polyolefin stuff for wires.

Says good till 275.
_________________________
95 Tbird V8 240K PP SYNTH ULTRA 5W30
98 MGM 160K M1 HM 5W20
96 Explorer EB V6 159K PP SYNTH HM 5W30
95 Conti 155K MC 5W20
11 GS350 90K PP HM 5W30

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#4503373 - 08/31/17 01:10 PM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
Char Baby Offline


Registered: 05/25/05
Posts: 10028
Loc: ROCHESTER, NY
I have just used rubber tranny line or even fuel line.
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"Retired"
'80 Firebird FORMULA V8/4bbl-purchased "NEW"
'06 Mazda 3i 2.0L
'15 Nissan Altima 2.5 SV

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#4503697 - 08/31/17 06:42 PM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
Dave9 Offline


Registered: 08/28/17
Posts: 176
Loc: Cincinnati, USA
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:


This. Unless it's a built up show truck you can only put so much into one before some texting teenager comes along and plows into it. Some insurance companies allow to insure vehicle above their bluebook value (at extra cost of course) but I doubt you're carrying comp insurance on it as is since the book is probably under $1500 by now.

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#4503735 - 08/31/17 07:17 PM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: Dave9]
ford46guy Offline


Registered: 06/01/13
Posts: 525
Loc: Albany, NY
Originally Posted By: Dave9
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:


This. Unless it's a built up show truck you can only put so much into one before some texting teenager comes along and plows into it. Some insurance companies allow to insure vehicle above their bluebook value (at extra cost of course) but I doubt you're carrying comp insurance on it as is since the book is probably under $1500 by now.

I do carry comp insurance, it cost less than an AAA membership and they include towing. I have a $100 deductible too. I guess they know what it is worth. Collision isn't much more, for all I did to the truck it is worth it. Both of them are under 50 bucks a year.

Getting that crazy shaped tube in wasn't pretty and I think whatever coating would scrape off. Flare fittings on trans lines are also a horrible idea. Getting them off in that tight area was nearly impossible. One came off with a 5/8" flare from the bottom, another I was fortunate to be able to hammer on a 15mm crowfoot thru the wheel well. I soaked it for a week in every penetrant too, and it took a bit of force. The tube split as soon as the nut moved, probably ready to dump the fluid any minute.

Almost 5 hours to do the job. I got labor quotes of 5-600 bucks, some places said they may have to drop the tranny. I was considering rubber splices and a ferrule but the flare end was weeping.

Ford changed to quick connects on later models, I'm sure there are corrosion issues but it can't be as bad as a flare. Getting it in to line up with the new tube is terrible too. The prebent tube also bends a bit when you install so it has to be rebent slightly. At one point I was tempted to cut and flare it in the center.
_________________________
95 Tbird V8 240K PP SYNTH ULTRA 5W30
98 MGM 160K M1 HM 5W20
96 Explorer EB V6 159K PP SYNTH HM 5W30
95 Conti 155K MC 5W20
11 GS350 90K PP HM 5W30

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#4503752 - 08/31/17 07:29 PM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
tomcat27 Offline


Registered: 06/25/09
Posts: 3564
Loc: Chicago, IL
the first set lasted over 20 years, correct? shouldn't that be good enough? stainless steel tubing next time.
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2015 Rogue, 2014 Sentra, 2001 Camry, 2005 Starcraft, 1998 Dodge B1500
1996 Sebring Jx, 1984 F150, 1970 Cougar, 2013 XT250, 2010 Vstar, 2014 CTX1300

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#4503854 - 08/31/17 08:57 PM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
Dave9 Offline


Registered: 08/28/17
Posts: 176
Loc: Cincinnati, USA
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: Dave9
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Then again they will probably outlast the truck no matter what I do :lol:


This. Unless it's a built up show truck you can only put so much into one before some texting teenager comes along and plows into it. Some insurance companies allow to insure vehicle above their bluebook value (at extra cost of course) but I doubt you're carrying comp insurance on it as is since the book is probably under $1500 by now.

I do carry comp insurance, it cost less than an AAA membership and they include towing. I have a $100 deductible too. I guess they know what it is worth. Collision isn't much more, for all I did to the truck it is worth it. Both of them are under 50 bucks a year.


BUT, their valuation of it only considers a median vehicle, not the better state of one for an owner that takes the amount of time you do to consider repairs to this extent. I'm in the same boat, also own a 2nd gen Explorer and cannot buy an equivalent vehicle with what my insurance company valuation is on it, and that disparity grows larger every year because I don't put many miles on that vehicle these days, yet not depending on it as anyone's daily driver, allows for more refurbishment and upgrades than if it were.

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#4503860 - 08/31/17 09:03 PM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
SilverFusion2010 Offline


Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 1663
Loc: Crawfordville FL
Gear oil would coat it. Smelly though
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2010 Ford Fusion SE 3.0L V6, 178k miles M1 HM 10w-30

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#4503861 - 08/31/17 09:06 PM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: ford46guy]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 5750
Loc: Illinois
You could paint it with POR-15. or maybe Plasti Dip ?
_________________________
2008 Hyundai Accent 1.6L 5 sp manual hatchback
2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Track 2L Turbo 6sp manual

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#4504164 - 09/01/17 08:45 AM Re: Protecting steel tubing [Re: SilverFusion2010]
ford46guy Offline


Registered: 06/01/13
Posts: 525
Loc: Albany, NY
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Gear oil would coat it. Smelly though

My front axle vent sat on the old lines, and these axles throw out some gear oil by design (I think there is some baffle they could install). About 2 feet of the lines looked brand new! I'm going to brush some on. Gear oil isn't going anywhere, especially when it gets a layer of crud.

Painting isn't an option really because the paint would have been scratched on install, and now they are all greasy anyway, in very hard to reach areas.
_________________________
95 Tbird V8 240K PP SYNTH ULTRA 5W30
98 MGM 160K M1 HM 5W20
96 Explorer EB V6 159K PP SYNTH HM 5W30
95 Conti 155K MC 5W20
11 GS350 90K PP HM 5W30

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