Oil for 2017 Honda Civic Type-R

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Just purchased a CTR a month ago and still got some ways to go until I'll need an oil change (currently at 1500 miles and change) but want to get an idea of what oil to use when the time comes (~6,000 miles, typically when the maintenance minder light comes on). I've always used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic on my previous Hondas, but this being my first turbocharged one (and highest performing), only the best will do
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1. What kind of vehicle you have: 2017 Honda Civic Type R
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well: API Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil; no set change interval but from online research, maintenance minder light will come on at ~6,000 miles to change oil
3. Where you live: Queens, New York
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?): Normal to fast daily driving; weekend spirited driving
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?): ~20 miles a day; Mix of city and highway
6. Whether your car has any known problems: No problems

I prefer to use full synthetic and an interval in line with the maintenance minder (~6,000 miles). Not sure if a huge difference maker, but aside from daily driver duties and spirited weekend drives, I might also do some HPDE track days.

Thanks in advance!
 
I am surprised it calls for 0W20. I would be tempted to use a good full synthetic 0W30, 5W30 or even 0W40 like Pennzoil Ultra or Castrol Edge, especially with a turbo that will be really hard on the oil. I use Castrol Edge 0W40 in my K20 Civic.
 
Originally Posted By: iLovePho
I've always used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic on my previous Hondas, but this being my first turbocharged one (and highest performing), only the best will do
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Mobil just came out with a dexos1 Gen2-quality 0w20 in their "Annual Protection" oil at Walmart (cheapest with $10 e-Gift card rebate; other online rebates from Mobil might be available too). That uses the latest set of base oils and additives Mobil can produce right now. Change at normal intervals, and its tough stuff for that, plenty of performance margin.
There is one higher spec (maybe slightly higher spec) than dexos1 Gen2 to look for: BMW and/or Mini: dealership or eBay or Amazon(?) oil, their 0w20, which should perform at a very high level.

Oil filter: Look for a Fram Ultra or Royal Purple oil filter for the highest performance and tough construction possible. The Fram Ultra's are not too expensive at Walmart either.
 
If you are planning to run 0w20 you better be ready to change oil every 2-3K. These turbo engines are hard on oil and proved themselves as an awesome fuel diltuters. With my 1.5T Civic it dilutes oil badly with mostly highway cruising. With track/spirited driving it will be like water by the time MM will tell you it is time to change. With that said, next OC I'll go up to 0w30. I'd suggest you go higher on the weight as well. Unless you don't plan to keep the car long term.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
I am surprised it calls for 0W20. I would be tempted to use a good full synthetic 0W30, 5W30 or even 0W40 like Pennzoil Ultra or Castrol Edge, especially with a turbo that will be really hard on the oil. I use Castrol Edge 0W40 in my K20 Civic.

The big fear is fuel dilution in these turbos. It does happen.
Maybe a good idea is to use a 0w20 from Redline (https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=124&pcid=21), which is practically a street oil and a racing oil too. Stands up to extreme HTHS conditions, with HTHS=2.9, qualifies in HTHS as a 30-weight.
Redline has a great reputaion on and off the track. Lots of moly in there too.
 
This is tough. For warranty reason I'd say go with what they say you need. Sounds like 0w20. That said, as others are saying I would think this car needs some 0w30. I'm not normally one to jump on the higher visc wagon, but this car is pushing roughly 153 horsepower per liter. I've seen some reports of the coolant spiking during track use as well. If the coolant temp is getting hot, the oil certainly is. I've kept a pretty close eye on this car as I've thought for awhile about getting one. I loved my Civic Si and regretted selling it.

I'd also be surprised if the built in mileage minder calculates all that different from a standard civic, but its possible. My Si would say 10% remaining at 6k miles like you mentioned.

Post some pics of that beast!
 
There are multiple ways you can attain receipts with proper grade and keep them for your records and warranty purposes. Keep 0w20 receipts and use heavier oil. Problem solved.

As far as the track goes I'd imagine you need to change oil after it anyways...
 
In my opinion, I'd rather go with an oil that's not API certified than go out of grade should an issue come up that required warranty coverage. Personally, I'd just run a thicker 0W-20 like Red Line. Just my .02 cents though.
 
Fuel dilution doesn't care whether the oil is API certified or not. I ran Amsoil SS which is on a heavy side and POA/Ester based and it still diluted badly just in 5K. another 2c
 
I just can't wrap my head around ever needing a 0W anything unless you live in the middle of Antarctica on the East Antarctic Plateau. The 0W is coming out of my Honda next oil change and being replaced with 5W20.
 
Originally Posted By: parshisa
Fuel dilution doesn't care whether the oil is API certified or not. I ran Amsoil SS which is on a heavy side and POA/Ester based and it still diluted badly just in 5K. another 2c
What vehicle?
 
If you're sticking with 0W-20, I would run only the best: Redline, Amsoil, M1 EP, PUP, Motul 8100. And I would definitely consider running a 5W-30 at the track. I also wouldn't recommend anything past 5k miles with the fuel dilution that is likely to ensue.

If I had to pick an oil to run in that engine, it would be Redline 0W-30.
 
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I just can't wrap my head around ever needing a 0W anything unless you live in the middle of Antarctica on the East Antarctic Plateau. The 0W is coming out of my Honda next oil change and being replaced with 5W20.


The 0W in 0W-XX refers to the viscosity when the oil is NOT at the operating temperature while the XX is the viscosity when oil is at the operating temperature. No?
 
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I agree... use the heaviest, fortified oil in a 0w-20 that you can find until your warranty is up. There have been plenty of EcoBoost UOAs that show higher fuel dilution than port injection, but as far as I know, none of the UOAs have shown insane amounts of wear metals even with fuel in the 9% range. Best bet is to sell it just before the warranty expires
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Manufacturer's RECOMMENDATION is not a REQUIREMENT.
Save yourself from trouble of fuel-diluted oil (and possibly a damaged/spun bearing under spirited driving due to dilution) and go with a good 0w40. Pennzoil, Mobil, or Castrol, in that order. Mobil 1 0w30 would be a good option too, if you dont want 0w40. But if you absolutely have to stay with 0w20 - then Redline 0w20 would absolutely be the only option I would even consider in that engine.

Learn from other people's fuel diluted engines and save yours from such trouble by stepping up in viscosity.
 
Originally Posted By: newbe46
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I just can't wrap my head around ever needing a 0W anything unless you live in the middle of Antarctica on the East Antarctic Plateau. The 0W is coming out of my Honda next oil change and being replaced with 5W20.


The 0W in 0W-XX refers to the viscosity when the oil is NOT at the operating temperature while the XX is the viscosity when oil is at the operating temperature. No?


SAE Viscosity Grade
Low-Temperature ( ˚C) Cranking Viscosity (3), mPa-s Max Low-Temperature (˚C) Pumping Viscosity (4), mPa-s Max with No Yield Stress (4)
0W 6200 at -35C 60000 at -40C
5W 6600 at -30C 60000 at -35C
10W 7000 at -25C 60000 at -30C
15W 7000 at -20C 60000 at -25C
20W 9500 at -15C 60000 at -20C
25W 13000 at -10C 60000 at -15C

Sorry, this isn't coming out right...CCS on the left and MRV on the right. I'll try to figure out how to copy the table later.
 
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A point that is often misunderstood. The number before the "W" is not a viscosity but a performance spec that is met (as shown in your chart).

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: newbe46
The 0W in 0W-XX refers to the viscosity when the oil is NOT at the operating temperature while the XX is the viscosity when oil is at the operating temperature. No?

SAE Viscosity Grade
Low-Temperature ( ˚C) Cranking Viscosity (3), mPa-s Max Low-Temperature (˚C) Pumping Viscosity (4), mPa-s Max with No Yield Stress (4)
0W 6200 at -35C 60000 at -40C
5W 6600 at -30C 60000 at -35C
10W 7000 at -25C 60000 at -30C
15W 7000 at -20C 60000 at -25C
20W 9500 at -15C 60000 at -20C
25W 13000 at -10C 60000 at -15C

Sorry, this isn't coming out right...CCS on the left and MRV on the right. I'll try to figure out how to copy the table later.
 
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