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Time-Sert #4501603
08/29/17 07:01 PM
08/29/17 07:01 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Chester11 Offline OP
Chester11  Offline OP
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Hi Guys:

Sorry for the cross-post, but I need some advice on using a Time-Sert. It's an aluminum pan, and I am concerned about using a drill to remove the threads and pushing shavings into the pan. Can this step be done by hand using a socket?

If you want details of how I got here, see:

My f-up

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Chester11] #4501613
08/29/17 07:15 PM
08/29/17 07:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17,501
Clovis, CA
Merkava_4 Offline
Merkava_4  Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17,501
Clovis, CA
Put grease on the drill bit and the metal chips will stick to the grease. Anymore questions let me know since I have reluctantly became an expert on Time-Serts.

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Merkava_4] #4501703
08/29/17 08:28 PM
08/29/17 08:28 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Chester11 Offline OP
Chester11  Offline OP
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
got it - any general purpose grease work?

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Chester11] #4501732
08/29/17 08:47 PM
08/29/17 08:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17,501
Clovis, CA
Merkava_4 Offline
Merkava_4  Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17,501
Clovis, CA
Yes

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Chester11] #4501746
08/29/17 08:55 PM
08/29/17 08:55 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,341
Kansas
Kruse Offline
Kruse  Offline
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,341
Kansas
I'm in the middle of installing a Time-Sert in a Ford F250 with the 5.4 engine, cylinder #4. (What a PITA)
When doing a project like this, you go into it with the mentality that some shavings will get inside.
You can do everything you can to minimize it, and you can do everything you can to remove them once they are in, but you won't keep all of them out and you probably won't get all of them out.
If you have that as an attitude before you start, you will sleep better at night.

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Chester11] #4501911
08/30/17 12:55 AM
08/30/17 12:55 AM
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,233
WA (USA)
Y_K Offline
Y_K  Offline
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,233
WA (USA)
Grease advice is good, but gear oil advice is better. Just dip the tool in a gear oil container and go in with confidence. The cheapest 140 gear oil is the best of the available ones, unless you have access to an ISO 220 gear oil. Even Delo ESi 80W-90 worked great for me.


"This forum talking about 4wd systems is like when other forums talk about oil." © 2018 FlyPenFly
Re: Time-Sert [Re: Chester11] #4502741
08/30/17 08:26 PM
08/30/17 08:26 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Chester11 Offline OP
Chester11  Offline OP
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Thanks guys! I'm ordering the part. I took one last run at it after chasing out the threads, but no go - still leaks.

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Kruse] #4503420
08/31/17 02:00 PM
08/31/17 02:00 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Chester11 Offline OP
Chester11  Offline OP
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Originally Posted By: Kruse
I'm in the middle of installing a Time-Sert in a Ford F250 with the 5.4 engine, cylinder #4. (What a PITA)
When doing a project like this, you go into it with the mentality that some shavings will get inside.
You can do everything you can to minimize it, and you can do everything you can to remove them once they are in, but you won't keep all of them out and you probably won't get all of them out.
If you have that as an attitude before you start, you will sleep better at night.


I'm a little concerned about going too deep into the pan. How were you able to judge depth on the cylinder head?

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Chester11] #4503776
08/31/17 07:43 PM
08/31/17 07:43 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,341
Kansas
Kruse Offline
Kruse  Offline
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,341
Kansas
Originally Posted By: Chester11
Originally Posted By: Kruse
I'm in the middle of installing a Time-Sert in a Ford F250 with the 5.4 engine, cylinder #4. (What a PITA)
When doing a project like this, you go into it with the mentality that some shavings will get inside.
You can do everything you can to minimize it, and you can do everything you can to remove them once they are in, but you won't keep all of them out and you probably won't get all of them out.
If you have that as an attitude before you start, you will sleep better at night.


I'm a little concerned about going too deep into the pan. How were you able to judge depth on the cylinder head?


Well, my repair is a little different than your repair, but here is the official Time-Sert video on a cylinder head repair:

http://www.timesert.com/html/triton-install.html

Re: Time-Sert [Re: Chester11] #4504161
09/01/17 08:41 AM
09/01/17 08:41 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,356
Iowa
The_Eric Offline
The_Eric  Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,356
Iowa
I don't understand what's going on.

You state that you started it by hand and torqued it in place but that there is a leak. The threads don't seal it, a gasket or crush washer does. Have you tried replacing it? Did you accidentally lose it?

If you started the plug by hand and it threaded in easily the whole way, then it extremely unlikely you cross threaded it.

Try this: remove the plug and gasket (if still there) and thread the plug in by hand. The head of the plug should be flat against the case of the transmission all the way around the circumference when hand tight. If it is, replace the gasket with a new one and retorque. If not, if there is a gap somewhere, you will need to drill it out straight and proceed with your repair.


2005 Lincoln Aviator 4.6 DOHC
2000 Honda Accord 2.3
2001 Hyundai Elantra 2.0
1979 Ford F-150 351M
Re: Time-Sert [Re: The_Eric] #4505013
09/02/17 02:20 AM
09/02/17 02:20 AM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Chester11 Offline OP
Chester11  Offline OP
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 147
PA
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
I don't understand what's going on.

You state that you started it by hand and torqued it in place but that there is a leak. The threads don't seal it, a gasket or crush washer does. Have you tried replacing it? Did you accidentally lose it?

If you started the plug by hand and it threaded in easily the whole way, then it extremely unlikely you cross threaded it.

Try this: remove the plug and gasket (if still there) and thread the plug in by hand. The head of the plug should be flat against the case of the transmission all the way around the circumference when hand tight. If it is, replace the gasket with a new one and retorque. If not, if there is a gap somewhere, you will need to drill it out straight and proceed with your repair.


Thanks.

The drain plug was definitely cross threaded to the point where the washer was bent. (I think the dealer damaged the threads during a drain and fill they did about a 2 years ago). They also underfilled the trans, which caused some shift issues, so I did the last change myself. At the time I noticed the plug was cranked way down. I think the trans is on the way out, so it was refilled with DF1 to see if the shifts would smooth out. Even with a new crush washer it still leaked. I tried to fix the threads and it didn't work either.

I put a Time Sert in tonight, and it seems to be fixed. Crossing my fingers anyway.


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