Why the hate for Royal Purple?

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I'm curious why there are 1. plenty of negative comments about Royal Purple on here 2. not more people here that use it.

In comparison to other specialty oil brands like Amsoil and Redline, it's easier to get (for example, you can find regular Royal Purple on the shelf at O'Reilly auto parts and order special versions like HPS, HMX, etc for the next day) and it's price competitive or cheaper. I just switched over it and and on the 2nd Royal Purple OCI for both my vehicles I intend to send UOAs to Blackstone so I'll be able to decide whether I should continue using it or not, but in the mean time I'm curious why y'all don't like it?

Thanks for any input.

PS: It's purple, how awesome is that?
 
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Mainly cost.
Another bone to pick - last year I switched to using the HPM version in my outboard motor.
I wanted to use it again this year - can't be found ...
 
basically, it's ust overpriced for what it is...

and the purple is a gimmick, the colorant goes away quickly in use.

and i'm a guy who loves a good purple gimmick.
i write this with a bottle of Elmer's glue on my desk, that goes on purple, and dries clear.
 
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I don't think it's "hate" per se, but there is no ROI for the expense with RP.In other words, there are many other oils that provide the same or better results with much less investment.

P.S.
Schaeffer Oil is GREEN, how awesome is that?
Pennzoil (Havoline, Mobil, P66, Valvoline) is GOLD how awesome is that?
 
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I don't dislike RP at all.

The oil is overpriced for the job that it does. There are many good oils out there that can do the job as good for a cheaper price.
 
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Because most cars are sold today because the creature comforts are falling apart (seats, headliners, door handles, AC, paint, etc)

Insufficient engine oil related problems are rare unless the engine is abused like rarely changing the oil, allowing it to leak below the dipstick before topping it off, or running a completely inappropriate oil like super thick oil in an engine that needs thin or vice versa.

I haven't seen a single study that proved an engine lasted longer when running brand X vs Brand Y with proper OCI.

RP is good oil but there are also other good oils that costs far less.
 
Right, when it was on clearance at Autozone for $2 a quart it's fine. But why go out of your way to pay for an expensive oil when just using the right oil speced by the manufacturer is more than enough? The engine is usually the last thing that will die on a car and the oil doesn't really matter that much these days. It will either rust apart or the transmission will die or it will have too much deferred maintenance. Only time the engine dies is if it's a design defect by the manufacturer and using an expensive oil isn't going to help.
 
Originally Posted By: Timo325
I don't dislike RP at all.

The oil is overpriced for the job that it does. There are many good oils out there that can do the job as good for a cheaper price.


Same here.....

I ONLY buy RP when it goes on CLEARANCE
 
Ever since RP went with API approved oils, they've taken a back seat to Red Line, no question. It's hard to pay double M1 prices (after rebate), or triple QSUD prices (also AR), for a Group III based oil! But-their HPS is still pretty good, when you can find it.
 
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda

I haven't seen a single study that proved an engine lasted longer when running brand X vs Brand Y with proper OCI.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Only time the engine dies is if it's a design defect by the manufacturer and using an expensive oil isn't going to help.


Wrong on both counts when it comes to heavy towing.

I have had piston rings get stuck (more like *welded*) in the lands due to excessive piston ring pack heat when worked hard towing heavy loads.

Granted - this is a situation that 99%(or more) of the people on here never encounter.

In situations like that, an oil that can handle higher temperatures is needed.
 
Imo,they got sucky when they sold out to a corporation and were no longer a premium exotic boutique. They removed the moly,zddp,and Synerlec.
 
Yeah, true. My go faster motors all need oil above average just to live. The desert bike barely survives on Motul 300V due to heat issues.

But many tow vehicles can live long and happy lives running HDEO, so why go to RP ...

In other words, if it need Rdline or Motul, RP won't do. If it just needs a tough oil, RP is not the toughest ...
 
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No hate, just exposing RP for what it is.....overpriced non-boutique oil.

They are still very successful because there are a lot of suckers who believe this stuff is the Holy Grail of motor oil. Just go to Instagram and you will see for yourself.
 
As most already stated, its expensive and hard to find. There are not a lot of local places around here that sell it. The ones that do demand a hefty price. My vehicles will have long rotted away before I would ever see any benefit to using it. That's if there is any benefit to using it over any other quality oil.

I have yet to see any justification as to why I should pay the absurd ransom they demand for it. But this also goes to some of the Amsoil lineup. Up here I do not feel like paying north of 15$ a quart for engine oil or ATF (not even the top of the line products)

I guess I could be paying for bragging rights?? But really how is that bragging? Perhaps its just me telling the world that I don't value the money I earn? Perhaps I may fit in with the "I run the premium oil and do 3000 mile change indexes for cheap insurance/peace of mind" crew???

When I was running my ram 1500 hard with heavy trailer weights, the inexpensive PPPP 5w20 did just fine. Sure that is anecdotal, it was ever backed by a UOA but the thing never burnt a drop over its 10-12,000km change index. I think on sale I paid well under half the price per unit than Amsoil/RP. The engine ran just fine up to the day I traded it in. My new Cummins is a proven design that is easy on oil. With its liquid/oil cooler the temps are held well in check, even when I have it towing its max at highway speeds. Would there be any benefit from running Amsoil/RP in a standard 24,000km oil change index? the 4.5$ a liter PetroCan Duron 10w30 semisynthetic is already rated at extended drains when using UOA and has decent cold weather properties. If I require better cold weather or high temp properties I will move up to a full synthetic 5 or 0w, 30 or 40 weight oil, which usually costs 8$ a liter up here. That's still nearly half the cost of a quart of Amsoil/RP.

Sorry, the blood pressure began to rise as I wrote this.
 
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