New 2017 Honda CR-V Suggestions

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Hey yall!

Just bought my wife a 2017 CR-V with the 2.4 Earth Dreams motor.

It only has 100 miles on it so far, and i plan to run this oil change out until 5k or the MM tells me to, whichever comes first.
I already have stuff on order, like Fram Ultra filters and crush washers and such.
I usually change the oil in a new vehicle in the first 1000 miles to get any metal particles and stuff out of the vehicle.
Its been suggested numerous times not to do so because Honda uses a special formulation in their factory fill, which i do not know the 100% dead honest truth to, so im leaving it just in case. Anyway, what would you guys suggest as an oil to use?
I have used M1 EP in other vehicles as well at PP. This vehicle just calls for a 0w-20 that is API certified.
Im curious, what have you ran, or what would you recommend?
Thank yall in advance!
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The DI 2.4 Honda can be a fuel diluter so run a thick 0w-20 like Pennzoil Ultra,Castrol Edge,or M1 AFE,ect.
 
Run the factory fill for a full OCI. No reason to change it early.

My Accord has the same engine. I get about 6k miles in commuter driving before the MM gets to 15% and calls for a change.

Mobil 1 EP and Pennzoil Platinum both had a lot of 'dry valvetrain'-sounding noise at startup but Mobil 1 AFE does not so I'm going to continue to use it especially since you can get it cheap at Walmart with Mobil's rebates. EP is overkill for 6k changes as is any long-drain oil.
 
Thank you for the response. Honestly i had never heard of the 2.4 having fuel dilution problems until now. Thats good to know!
 
Bottom Feeder: Thanks for the recommendation, im not against any oil, just want what is best for this motor. Not all motors favor the same oils, so experience helps. Thank ya!
 
They do have fuel dilution issues: the Mobil1 0w-20 AFE in mine is out-of viscosity grade before 3,000 miles. The heaviest 0w-20 I could find is Castrol Magnatec and I'll start using that for the next OCI. While Magnatec may not be considered an extended drain oil, my OCIs will be short enough for it not to matter.

I took my UOAs to American Honda and the response was essentially "Yawn. Unless you have a check engine light please stop bothering us." And they've told my dealer to do no more for me on this issue. So, maybe it's normal and OK. Or maybe not. Guess we'll see...

Honda's assembly lubes put a lot of molybdenum into the factory fill on initial start-up, which seems to be why Honda suggests leaving the oil in for a normal interval. The thinking seems to be that the molybdenum prevents hot spots from forming on cylinder walls as they conform to piston rings during break-in. These hot spots can cause oil to leave deposits that can't be removed without engine tear-down and result in a permanently compromised seal. Does it really matter? Who knows?
 
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If worried, change the filter but not the oil. Top off with a little 0w20 of whatever you want.
I ran the FF on my 2005 CR-V to 4800 initial miles. 250k later and no issues.
 
Very good responses. Yea, i was unaware of any fuel dilution issues that the 2.4 had. Thank you guys for filling me in. I wonder why it has such issues, i usually have only heard of turbocharged motors having issues like that. The Moly assembly lube makes perfect sense, im sure that is why they strongly recommend we keep the FF until the first OCI. I did plan on changing the fuel filter as soon as my shipment of filters comes in just for my own piece of mind.

With all of this in mind, would it be recommended to go up a grade in weight due to the fuel dilution issues? say 5w20 or 5w30?
Yall's responses have been great so far and i do appreciate you taking the time for me.
 
I run Pennzoil Platinum in my Honda. Soooooo smooth!! I've never had any noise whatsoever,even on first startup after sitting unstarted for two weeks.
 
I ran 5w20 Magnatec after the first free changes in my ED motor on my Accord.
My local Honda dealer used bulk 5w20 in all Hondas and charged for 0w20 at a $10 premium.
Today I run 5w20 in my Ford that specs 0w20. No big deal. No loss in mpg in that engine or the Ford.
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
Very good responses. Yea, i was unaware of any fuel dilution issues that the 2.4 had. Thank you guys for filling me in. I wonder why it has such issues, i usually have only heard of turbocharged motors having issues like that. The Moly assembly lube makes perfect sense, im sure that is why they strongly recommend we keep the FF until the first OCI. I did plan on changing the fuel filter as soon as my shipment of filters comes in just for my own piece of mind.

With all of this in mind, would it be recommended to go up a grade in weight due to the fuel dilution issues? say 5w20 or 5w30?
Yall's responses have been great so far and i do appreciate you taking the time for me.
Stay with the thick 0w20 while in warranty. You may be lucky and your engine doesn't dilute.
 
BTW my Honda would go from 10 to 13k miles on the OLM so I would change it when i wanted to and disregard the OLM.
Mostly rural driving but little to no Interstate use.
 
Personally I would rather run 5w-30 because I just find 0w-20 thin. It shouldn't bother me because that is what they spec, but it does. Lol. Would it hurt to run 5w-30? I don't care about mpg I care about longevity. I will most likely stick to 0w-20 but if I wanted to ever run 5w-30 just for the [censored] of it, would it be ok without any detrimental effects?
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
Personally I would rather run 5w-30 because I just find 0w-20 thin. It shouldn't bother me because that is what they spec, but it does. Lol. Would it hurt to run 5w-30? I don't care about mpg I care about longevity. I will most likely stick to 0w-20 but if I wanted to ever run 5w-30 just for the [censored] of it, would it be ok without any detrimental effects?
IMO, I would stick with an 0w20 or 5w20. There is nothing to be afraid of in using these thinner oils. I've used them for a number of years on my older 03' Ford Focus, and they work beautifully, especially in some of our cold winters here in Central Oregon (sometimes as low a minus 15 degrees)... as well in our very warm summers. Less wear and easy start-ups in all climates.

Your oil filter choice of a Fram Ultra (my choice as well) is excellent as well.

It will not be necessary to change out you fuel filter until you reach the 30 to 40K mark.,

Be sure you plan a transmission oil change somewhere between 40 to 60K.
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
Personally I would rather run 5w-30 because I just find 0w-20 thin. It shouldn't bother me because that is what they spec, but it does. Lol. Would it hurt to run 5w-30? I don't care about mpg I care about longevity. I will most likely stick to 0w-20 but if I wanted to ever run 5w-30 just for the [censored] of it, would it be ok without any detrimental effects?


Once warranty is over I plan to use 0w-30 or 5w-30. Not afraid of 20 weights in most applications, but a propensity for fuel dilution changes things a bit. A 30 weight shouldn't harm anything, especially as it will fuel-dilute to a 20 weight pretty quickly.
 
My 2.4l dilutes as well I'd say though I don't have a scientist proof

Mine also uses some oil between the oil change intervals, roughly .5 quart

Measuring the oil level is very hard, I'm doing it over the night only

Currently, I'm using Mobil 1 EP along with FRAM Ultra every 5k and the oil is very dirty at the time
 
I think I'm going to try pennzoil ultra or pp first and see how it works. Hopefully it works well. If not I will try Mobil 1. I'll have to see I guess. Didn't know it was a fuel diluting engine, so will depend upon a uoa.
 
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