Tightening nut on trailer wheel bearing

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I replaced the bearings, races and seal on the wheels on my boat trailer.

Tightened while spinning and then loosened and tightened by hand. Could not get the cotter pin in.

After reading on the internet, I decided I should re-tighten the nut using a torque wrench.

Tightened to 50lbs and heard some metal groaning. Loosened and tightened slightly. Now I can just get the cotter pin in. If I rock the wheel side to side I can detect a slight movement which is what you should end up with.

So either the race was not set all the way or the tapered bearing had not slid enough on the tapered shaft.
 
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Yes you always want to tighten the castle nut to 50-60lbs to make sure the race is seated. I loosen it and then as i spin the wheel tighten it until it drags, then back off 1 cotter pin hole. You did pack the bearings real good with grease right? Not just put grease on them?
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Yes you always want to tighten the castle nut to 50-60lbs to make sure the race is seated. I loosen it and then as i spin the wheel tighten it until it drags, then back off 1 cotter pin hole. You did pack the bearings real good with grease right? Not just put grease on them?


Yes, my Dad showed my how to pack bearings probably in the 1960s using a glob of grease in your palm and pushing the bearing into the grease (and rotating the bearing) looking for fresh grease to come out of the top of the bearing.

This was for RWD cars where the front wheels had roller bearings one would remove and grease.
 
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Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Yes you always want to tighten the castle nut to 50-60lbs to make sure the race is seated. I loosen it and then as i spin the wheel tighten it until it drags, then back off 1 cotter pin hole. You did pack the bearings real good with grease right? Not just put grease on them?


Yes, my Dad showed my how to pack bearings probably in the 1960s using a glob of grease in your palm and pushing the bearing into the grease (and rotating the bearing) looking for fresh grease to come out of the top of the bearing.

This was for RWD cars where the front wheels had roller bearings one would remove and grease.


Nice job! Messy, but i do it by hand as well!
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Yes, my Dad showed my how to pack bearings probably in the 1960s using a glob of grease in your palm and pushing the bearing into the grease (and rotating the bearing) looking for fresh grease to come out of the top of the bearing.


If it's a tapered bearing, these Lisle bearing packers work fantastic. All you do is sandwich the bearing in between the two halves and shoot grease in with a grease gun. You never get your hands greasy.

Lisle 65250
31SPC7H717L._SX355_.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Donald
Yes, my Dad showed my how to pack bearings probably in the 1960s using a glob of grease in your palm and pushing the bearing into the grease (and rotating the bearing) looking for fresh grease to come out of the top of the bearing.


If it's a tapered bearing, these Lisle bearing packers work fantastic. All you do is sandwich the bearing in between the two halves and shoot grease in with a grease gun. You never get your hands greasy.

Lisle 65250
31SPC7H717L._SX355_.jpg



What fun is that?
 
Don't understand the noise. Next time you tow grab each hub to see if one is hotter than the roadway temp and/or hotter than the other hub. A hotter hub needs attention. Hope this helps.
 
On the old RWD cars , when servicing the front wheel bearings I was instructed to leave a tiny bit od slack / side to side " wobble " .

I latter read this was to allow for expansion , as every thing heated up .

Does that sound correct ?
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Don't understand the noise. Next time you tow grab each hub to see if one is hotter than the roadway temp and/or hotter than the other hub. A hotter hub needs attention. Hope this helps.


I am guessing the noise was pushing in the race a tiny bit, but as I said, I would have thought the races were already properly seated.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Trav
It sounds like you forgot the washer behind the nut.


With no washer the cotter pin would have had room to go in easy.


Depends on how thick the washer is doesn't it, I have seen it happen in small stuff. If your having a hard time getting the cotter pin in because its to far away and its making metal to metal noise there is something not seated, either a seal or a race.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
What fun is that?


Lots of fun! Watching the grease squeeze out from between the rollers is very satisfying.
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I think that's a good guess.....everything other than the race seating would be greased.
 
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