Drill Master rotary buffer

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I stopped at harbor freight yesterday on the way to the car show and picked up a drillmaster variable speed buffer on coupon for $29 and a black pad. After using it today I probably won't mess with a random orbital again when this knocks out a panel in 2 minutes. It does get hot but I'm putting a lot of pressure. A quick buff before a car show will be light pressure and quick. I could knock out the whole car in 10 minutes with this and meguiars 205.

Rotary is the way. You'd have to be incompetent to burn paint with one on a low setting.
 
They are nice. I have clamped one in a vise to polish lenses on welding helmets and headlights.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wouldn't a faster RO do the same thing, without the chances of circular lines?


I had been using a 10" cheapo random dual action I got years ago at autozone. It only has off/on. It'd take 30 minutes to do a panel. Results were fine just took a long time.

Or a 30 year o!d black and decker rotary that only had 2 speeds fast and crazy fast. And it slung compound all over. Too hard to control. It stripped out its gearbox earlier this week.

This HF drill master has a continuously variable thumb wheel controller. So you can go only as fast as you're comfortable with. You have to give it a rest as it does get hot. It works out perfect 2-5 minutes to do a panel then about the same amount of time to wipe the compound off with a microfiber towel while it cools off.

I don't see any swirl marks. Maybe I need to get out my jewelers monocle, but I don't see them even on black lacquer. The meguiars 205 is pretty good stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
I don't see any swirl marks. Maybe I need to get out my jewelers monocle, but I don't see them even on black lacquer. The meguiars 205 is pretty good stuff.

You may want to try an IPA wipe on a panel. The oils in M205 are good at hiding any hologramming induced by rotary.

I prefer to finish (fine polish, wax) with a DA. Max speed on my DA with M205 and a finishing pad gets a panel to flawless QUICK.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW

You may want to try an IPA wipe on a panel.



Alcohol ruins lacquer. I'm really not that picky. This sucker looks fantastic, trust me.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wouldn't a faster RO do the same thing, without the chances of circular lines?


No way, there is no comparison. DA's suck plain and simple, the sell because they are "safe" if you learn to use a rotary properly there is no swirls and they are fast. This one is great with electronic speed control, there are many left out in the wild so if anyone is interested grab one while you can.
I also use an air powered 10" one for bigger jobs but its a bit hard to handle for a beginner as is the full size electrics even with variable speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9901-Electric-Polisher-Compact/dp/B004WIWC02

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4204792/New_Cheap_Rotary_Buffer
 
Quote:
I had been using a 10" cheapo random dual action I got years ago at autozone. It only has off/on. It'd take 30 minutes to do a panel. Results were fine just took a long time.
Can you show the picture? I am suspecting you had a wax spreader which comes in 10 inches and has two handles on the side. That was no DA polisher.
 
61898_zzz_500.jpg



Looks just like this one. I get its a light duty unit.
 
Looking forward to "Finish looks very bad but only in direct sunlight" topic soon by OP :)
 
Last edited:
Nope - that's not a DA polisher, turtlevette.. in fact it's as far removed from a proper DA orbital polisher as a clawhammer is removed from a jackhammer.

THIS is a proper DA Orbital polisher:

7424XP_1_500x500.jpg


I would use one of these over a rotary polisher if you are not absolutely familiar with how a rotary works, and how it can damage your paint.


.. if I were you, I'd be looking VERY closely at the paint in direct sunlight to insure it wasn't covered in swirls now.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wouldn't a faster RO do the same thing, without the chances of circular lines?


No way, there is no comparison. DA's suck plain and simple, the sell because they are "safe" if you learn to use a rotary properly there is no swirls and they are fast. This one is great with electronic speed control, there are many left out in the wild so if anyone is interested grab one while you can.
I also use an air powered 10" one for bigger jobs but its a bit hard to handle for a beginner as is the full size electrics even with variable speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9901-Electric-Polisher-Compact/dp/B004WIWC02

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4204792/New_Cheap_Rotary_Buffer


Great advice! I bought one of them per Trav's advice, and while I have yet to use it, my friend also bought one and used it on his black benz and results were spectacular. You also cant beat it for the price.
 
They do produce a better result and faster but what is possible and what is likely are not always the same. To repaint a car oem quality is thousands of dollars. So you need to consider if someone will use it enough or be careful and not cause damage. Yes da is slower and less effective but if I talked someone into a rotary instead, then they wrecked their paint. I really doubt arguing it's their fault rotary is better will make them forgive you that $3000+ paint job.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
No way, there is no comparison. DA's suck plain and simple, the sell because they are "safe" if you learn to use a rotary properly there is no swirls and they are fast. This one is great with electronic speed control, there are many left out in the wild so if anyone is interested grab one while you can.

Trav, sometimes safe is good. Even with training, if you hand me a rotary, you might as well just put the sanding disc on the thing, since it'll probably need a paint prep when I'm done anyhow. Might as well get me doing something useful.
wink.gif
 
I agree. I don't advocate getting a big powerful buffer slapping a cutting pad on it and going to town, that would be crazy and result in paint damage but the small rotary I linked to with a waffle pad running on low speed for cutting is about as safe as you can get with type of machine so you can learn.
I don't suggest you start out on a car with good paint but a beater or junkyard part would be ideal to learn on.

The problem is people wanting to buff their cars often which isn't good at all, regardless of what machine is used every time you do it you remove paint it doesn't matter if you do it quickly with a rotary or slowly with a DA it still remove material.
These tools like any other is something learned and should be done with proper training and practice, an air chisel is no more dangerous than a hammer and cold chisel if used properly but things can go bad quickly in untrained hands.

I buff my cars after I paint them and when I go to sell them otherwise a buffer of any type doesn't come near the paint. Hand wash, clay bar and a good wax is all thats needed. What people either don't realize or consider is whenever a scratch no matter how small is removed you are not removing the scratch but the surrounding paint.
I looked at the car from a "professional" detailer and the paint was so thin the car needed a repaint especially the hood and trunk because he buffed it o often.
I understand not wanting paint full of swirls so the trick is to prevent them in the first place if appearance is that important.

There is one DA that stands out and thats the big foot but again its only "good" because its fast meaning it also removes a lot of material quickly.
 
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