15w40 ok for my tractor?

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I bought a 1957 case 312 high crop tractor. Has a 148 cubic inch case 4 cyl gas engine. It does not have a full flow oil filter but it does have a bypass filter.

Any reason not to use 15w40?
 
As long as that engine is OK with a detergent oil, it would be OK.
Some of the older units were not made for detergent lubes.
Not sure about your engine; don't know enough about it.
 
That engine brings back memories. I worked as the engine assembly line leader in 1956 through 1058. I was responsible make sure all those engines (my shift), were properly assembled. We then ran each one on a water brake dyno to test water temp, oil pressure and finally HP. Detergent oil in 15-40 viscosity is good. Ed
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
As long as that engine is OK with a detergent oil, it would be OK.
Some of the older units were not made for detergent lubes.
Not sure about your engine; don't know enough about it.

Interesting, how do you not make an engine for detergent oil? I always thought the reason they specified a non-detergent oil was becuse that's all there was at the time, not because of engine design.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Any reason not to use 15w40?

.... only if this engine is currently on non-detergent oils prior todate, otherwise no problem.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
That engine brings back memories. I worked as the engine assembly line leader in 1956 through 1058. I was responsible make sure all those engines (my shift), were properly assembled. We then ran each one on a water brake dyno to test water temp, oil pressure and finally HP. Detergent oil in 15-40 viscosity is good. Ed
they must have put this one together ok. Its still running 60 yrs later.
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
.... only if this engine is currently on non-detergent oils prior todate, otherwise no problem.

Why is that?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: zeng
.... only if this engine is currently on non-detergent oils prior todate, otherwise no problem.

Why is that?

Starting to remove 60 years of deposits may create some problems I guess? I'd think that its probably had detergent oil in it for many years just out of convenience.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Starting to remove 60 years of deposits may create some problems I guess? I'd think that its probably had detergent oil in it for many years just out of convenience.

Could be I guess. I just see people on here saying to use a good high-detergent motor oil when trying to clean out a sludged engine, saying that it will be "slow" and "gentle" compared to a flush or some cleaning additive. Maybe if it truly would cause problems then such advice about those other engines isn't good advice either.
 
Sometimes the sludge is "sealing" the engine too I guess, but it probably is self rust proofing quite well already!
My buddy has a 40's gas tractor running pretty good, but it leaks a bit of oil from everywhere, just enough to keep it around for a few more decades.
 
Do you use this thing when it's snowing or cold out? If not, I'd prefer a premium SAE 30 w/o and VII's at all and zero shear potential ...

Go read through the "Best SAE 30" thread and you will see evidence that straight 30's protect upper cylinder walls better than multi's. So, if you don't need a multi, don't ...
 
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Do you use this thing when it's snowing or cold out? If not, I'd prefer a premium SAE 30 w/o and VII's at all and zero shear potential ...

Go read through the "Best SAE 30" thread and you will see evidence that straight 30's protect upper cylinder walls better than multi's. So, if you don't need a multi, don't ...

Is there something about this tractor engine that makes the upper cylinder walls susceptible to wear?
 
15W oils have decent cold starting ability down to 20 Fahrenheit. If you are going to be starting it at temperatures below 20 Fahrenheit use a oil with a lower first number.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Do you use this thing when it's snowing or cold out? If not, I'd prefer a premium SAE 30 w/o and VII's at all and zero shear potential ...

Go read through the "Best SAE 30" thread and you will see evidence that straight 30's protect upper cylinder walls better than multi's. So, if you don't need a multi, don't ...

Is there something about this tractor engine that makes the upper cylinder walls susceptible to wear?


No, but it's many decades old. No point in not getting to 100 years old if possible. Just looking for best lubrication possible ...

That seems to be mono grades from what I have been able to find/read. So, if you don't need a winter grade multi (?), why use one.

I'll bet the original owners manual will spec SAE 30 HD, which is OK down to freezing.

Anything below that should be a multi ...
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
15W oils have decent cold starting ability down to 20 Fahrenheit. If you are going to be starting it at temperatures below 20 Fahrenheit use a oil with a lower first number.
not me. I live in the desert and 65f is cold to us.
 
Well then, a good SAE 30 HD is right up your ally
laugh.gif
 
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