Wifes van

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Hello all, I would like your opinions on PM's for my wifes mini van, I am a professional driver, have been for 26yrs now so I am not new to getting the most out of your fluids.
I have always done PM's every 5,000 miles in my personal cars and this has always worked well for me, no window sticker needed, easy for me to remember, whenever there is a "5" or a "0" third place from the left on the odometer I change the oil, KISS (keep it simple stupid)
Well for my wifes van I have ran into a dellima, we moved last November (same city different part of said city) and her commute is now all of .2 miles, literally 5min if no traffic, 7 if there is traffic.
Not to big of a deal because after work she had to go get our daughter from daycare, 3 miles each way so the engine got hot.
Once a week she drives to yoga at a friend's house, 20 miles each way.
I changed her oil last September when I replaced the oil pan on her van, it was rusted and was starting to weep.
It is now almost a year later and her van is in need of another PM.
It is a 2006 Kia Sedona with 180,000 miles, I have always used Mobil 1 0W-20 and a quality oil filter, usually Purolator PureOne as they go BOGO at a local store, one for me, one for her.
Her van takes 6qts of oil and Costco sells Mobil 1 for $36/case, when it's on sale it's $26/case. So again...KISS.
But now that she only drives maybe 5,000/yr I am thinking of changing either the oil I use or the PM interval.

What do you guys think? Stick with the Mobil 1 and 5,000 mile PM's no matter the time?
Mobil 1 changed every 6mo? (I use a long life filter so I'd change that every other time)
Or change oils completely but stick with the 5,000 mile PM's?

I did take a SOS last fall but never sent it in and I know it's no longer a viable sample now.

Let me know what you guys think.

And one more bit of info, now that the oil is pretty much worn out her van uses about 1qt every 2 months. I have been topping off with Mobil 1, I just buy single qts as needed. But this oil usage only started when summer hit, already 6mo into her PM.

Thanks everyone.
 
With replacing a quart of oil every 2 months you can be rest assured that the oil will make 5k miles and/or 1 year.

The sienna in my signiture is my wifes car and is also a short tripper. A few 7 mile trips and 1 mile trips. I was running 0w20 since the oil is never up to temp so the thinner oil would be better. Running some thick oil as an experiement to see if it does better and so far I am not liking it.

I agree with what you said about 5k intervals being great and easy to remember. I would prefer 7.5k but not easy to remember and 10k just seems too long for all the short trips.
 
The once a year oil change is fine, I would ditch the purolator filter and get something better such as a from ultra or Napa gold or wix.

With the ultra you can leave it on for two years with no issue.
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
The once a year oil change is fine, I would ditch the purolator filter and get something better such as a from ultra or Napa gold or wix.

With the ultra you can leave it on for two years with no issue.
What's the data behind that allegation?
 
If you're using M1 and keeping it topped off, I'd just change every 6,000 - even if it takes you 3 or 4 years. You'll have to brush up on your math skills, but it will keep your brain sharp. Oil, and especially M1 & synthetics, last a lot longer than you think - the top offs are key.
 
Spike, with all those short trips, I'd probably want to change engine oil/filter every 6 months. Given the age and mileage of this van, I wouldn't be concerned with the brand of oil and filter. I'd only be concerned about running a synthetic if you have extreme cold winter starts to contend with.
 
I would just keep doing the 5,000 mile interval. It is a short tripper, but using a good syn and topping in up with a qt every 2 months, 5,000 miles is easily doable.

I am in a similar situation and asked a similar question a while back. Wife quit working. Was doing a 5000 mile OCI (was about every 5 months). Now it will be about once a year to get to 5000 miles. Some short tripping, but at least a weekly 50 mile each way trip, all highway.
Was trying to decide if I should do a 6 month OCI or stick with the 5000 mile.
I am sticking with the 5000 mile interval.

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: JC1
The once a year oil change is fine, I would ditch the purolator filter and get something better such as a from ultra or Napa gold or wix.

With the ultra you can leave it on for two years with no issue.
What's the data behind that allegation?

Purolator filters have been having tearing issues for years, and they are doing nothing about it.
The Ultra is a proven 20,000 mile filter, and will easily last 10,000 miles over 2 years.
 
KISS is right. But, I don't see the need for Mobil1, especially with 180K on the ODO. I'd run Chevron Supreme (premium dino) also usually available at Costco in 10W-30. Change it once a year. say near July 4th and be done.

For a filter, I'd run a Napa Gold and change it maybe every three years. Premium filters are good for 12,000 to 15,000 miles, as long as the motor is clean internally and in good shape.
 
Were it me , I would change it at 6 months & see if that eliminated the need to top it off . And check RockAuto.com for some " better " filters on sale .

I recently ordered 12 filters on sale & with freight it came out slightly less than $ 20 .

And , no , I can not bring myself to change oil with out changing filters .

And I am an old codger , still hanging with the 3,000 mile OCI using Dexos spec synthetic . Still cheaper than when wifey was having the oil / filter ( dino oil ) changed , on our older cars at the fast change .

Best of luck ,
 
Thank you for the opinions guys.
I've always read that Purolator PureOne oil filters are great filters, full syn media, metal core tube, made in the USA, her filter is a cartridge type and there has never been any deformities when changing the filter.
I have no idea what the "ultra" oil filter you guys mentioned is.
Yes cold starts, here in West Michigan it is common to get below zero at night and my wife is not one to let the van warm up to much as she's always running late.
The engine is clean, runs great, zero sludge. It requires 5w-20, I have tried 5w-30 and it didn't like it in the cold, I know how viscosity works, but it never got hot long enough for the "W-30" to do it's thing.

I have not made up my mind yet and I love to debate and bounce idea's off others as well as have idea's bounced off of me.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Give 0w20 a try.


I have, it is the same as 5W-20, you can't have a "0" weight motor oil, the lowest viscosity index is a "5"
I believe that is what is in there right now.
This van has not used a drop of oil until this last PM cycle.
 
Originally Posted By: Spike555
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Give 0w20 a try.


I have, it is the same as 5W-20, you can't have a "0" weight motor oil, the lowest viscosity index is a "5"
I believe that is what is in there right now.
This van has not used a drop of oil until this last PM cycle.


The first number is not a viscosity rating. It indicates cold cranking performance. A 0w will pump a little easier than a 5w on the cold starts.

I think there are some 5w20 high mileage options out there.

When is the last time you replaced the PCV valve?
 
Originally Posted By: Spike555
I have, it is the same as 5W-20, you can't have a "0" weight motor oil, the lowest viscosity index is a "5"
I believe that is what is in there right now.


I'm not sure what you're trying to say there. The suggestion about 0W-20 was made because it will perform better in very cold temperatures.

And yes there is no 0 weight motor oil but at the same time the number before the "W" is not a viscosity. It is a cold weather performance specification, and if it is very cold the oil will be less viscous than a 5W oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Spike555
Thank you for the opinions guys.
I've always read that Purolator PureOne oil filters are great filters, full syn media, metal core tube, made in the USA, her filter is a cartridge type and there has never been any deformities when changing the filter.
I have no idea what the "ultra" oil filter you guys mentioned is.
Yes cold starts, here in West Michigan it is common to get below zero at night and my wife is not one to let the van warm up to much as she's always running late. ...

PureOne filters are a syn blend media, not full synthetic.
The media tears have been in canister filters, don't think I have seen issues with cartridge.
But if they don't bother to fix a known and documented problem if one filter line, why would I buy another?

The ultra is a Fram Ultra. It is a 100% synthetic, wire mesh backed media filter. Great longevity and filtration.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher
Originally Posted By: Spike555
Thank you for the opinions guys.
I've always read that Purolator PureOne oil filters are great filters, full syn media, metal core tube, made in the USA, her filter is a cartridge type and there has never been any deformities when changing the filter.
I have no idea what the "ultra" oil filter you guys mentioned is.
Yes cold starts, here in West Michigan it is common to get below zero at night and my wife is not one to let the van warm up to much as she's always running late. ...

PureOne filters are a syn blend media, not full synthetic.
The media tears have been in canister filters, don't think I have seen issues with cartridge.
But if they don't bother to fix a known and documented problem if one filter line, why would I buy another?

The ultra is a Fram Ultra. It is a 100% synthetic, wire mesh backed media filter. Great longevity and filtration.


Gotcha, thank you.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Originally Posted By: Spike555
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Give 0w20 a try.


I have, it is the same as 5W-20, you can't have a "0" weight motor oil, the lowest viscosity index is a "5"
I believe that is what is in there right now.
This van has not used a drop of oil until this last PM cycle.


The first number is not a viscosity rating. It indicates cold cranking performance. A 0w will pump a little easier than a 5w on the cold starts.

I think there are some 5w20 high mileage options out there.

When is the last time you replaced the PCV valve?


I replaced it last summer when I replaced the EVAP purge valve, both are on the back side of the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Spike555
but it never got hot long enough for the "W-30" to do it's thing.


Forget the M1 or other synthetics, this sounds like a job for conventional 5w20. At the most, maybe a bargain priced semi-syn 0w20 like MaxLife? If you know of a difference in consumption between the two grades, choose the one that burns the least. I personally would not worry about 0W Synthetic in that engine and locale, whether the engine warms up fully or not. 1yr/5000 mile OCI sounds perfectly reasonable on conventional.
 
Yeah, in your circumstances and since it burns nothing, I guess a 0W-20 would be OK. Out here, it gets too hot to feel comfy with a 20.

105* and the A/C going full blast in stop and go traffic means a 30 for me ...

But you prolly have a different situation ...
 
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