Used Cars with Replaced Engines

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
1,941
Location
MD
I'm going the look at a used car (2005 MPV van) today with a replaced engine. I don't think that I've ever looked at a car with a replaced engine. Besides the obvious, what should I look out for?
 
I would want proof that the engine swap was done by a reputable shop. If the seller told me he did it himself in his garage, I would pass.
 
I would be concerned with who did the work. It's easy to mess things up when doing something like and engine swap; mess up a plug connector, break or crimp a wire, break a sensor, etc.
 
Just make sure the engine runs right, make sure the CEL lights up upon start and turns off, and make sure there are no leaks around the engine and between engine and transmission. Also check the oil cap for sludge buildup. If the cap has sludge - the rest of the engine does too, and usually a lot worse than the cap.


I've replaced a few engines in my friend's shop (he has a lift, duh) and every time the engine had less miles than the car. For example - last car was Lexus IS300 with 134k that I put an engine in with 100k miles. Did I have the paperwork to prove anything? No. Did I tell the new owner about the "new" engine when I sold the car at 170k miles? No. The car is still driving out there. Last time I checked - it was at 220k.
 
I did a motor swap on the Ford Transit, mated it to a totally rebuilt tranny with papers now in the glove box. Original engine had 180k. The donor was a engine with under 40k. 6 months no issues but was a Ford trained mechanic that I assisted for better or worse.
Basically look at the paper trail if the work was done by reputable shop and replacement was checked out.
Saved me big $$$ and have a very nice drivable vehicle that with proper care will last easily another 180k without issues.
 
It could be a plus is a reman engine or a negative if a junkyard engine that the PO did himself.

Some vehicles like my 2001 Jeep GC 4.0 are likely to need an engine by 100,000 miles due to piston skirt cracking.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Was it replaced with a new/rebuilt engine or a junkyard engine with unknown history?
Newly rebuilt - $2000-$3000. Used from a junkyard, that is sparkling clean under valve cover - $600. I think the choice is obvious here. Plus the junkyard engines comes with all the sensors and most of accessories & wiring- which means less labor in swapping that over from the old engine.
 
I had a Jasper engine put in my 1995 Escort in 2001. I'm still driving the car too. In this particular case it's a big plus since the Jasper won't drop a valve seat.
 
A replaced engine adds no value to a vehicle despite what the poor sap who paid for it thinks. So make sure you pay for mileage on odometer not that 30k engine.

2005 is good because if sensor or item not correctly installed the Check engine is on. Make sure it illuminates when in on position but motor not running.

My Subaru had major engine work due to valve burning requiring engine removal. Not a single issue but mechanic is Subie expert. He said it started first attempt no lights after the install.
 
If the car runs right and there's no check engine light, what is there to worry about? What could you mess up during an engine swap that would not cause a no-start, a driveability issue, or a CEL?
 
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Was it replaced with a new/rebuilt engine or a junkyard engine with unknown history?
Newly rebuilt - $2000-$3000. Used from a junkyard, that is sparkling clean under valve cover - $600. I think the choice is obvious here. Plus the junkyard engines comes with all the sensors and most of accessories & wiring- which means less labor in swapping that over from the old engine.


The answer is obvious - if I was to swap an engine for myself.

Buying a car with a swapped engine I would prefer the one with paperwork and a warranty over the one some guy swapped in his garage. I trust my own work not other people's work.
 
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
If the car runs right and there's no check engine light, what is there to worry about? What could you mess up during an engine swap that would not cause a no-start, a driveability issue, or a CEL?


Re-using old parts that should be changed like gaskets or belts.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I had a Jasper engine put in my 1995 Escort in 2001. I'm still driving the car too. In this particular case it's a big plus since the Jasper won't drop a valve seat.


I(myself and Dad) put a Jasper 6 cyl engine in a 66 Chevy in 1972. It performed very well.
 
Check where it was sourced from, and who put it in.
Anything feels wonky or is less that perfect in regards to CEL's run away.

- but this must be some alternate reality because on Bitog engines dont go bad or wear out and always outlast the vehicle. (yeah right)

UD
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
It could be a plus is a reman engine or a negative if a junkyard engine that the PO did himself.

Some vehicles like my 2001 Jeep GC 4.0 are likely to need an engine by 100,000 miles due to piston skirt cracking.


Well, it depends on your starting point. If the OEM engine had a rod out the side of the block, even a junk yard motor is better ... Engine is an engine. It does not know or care if it's in one chassis or another ...

What matters is how careful the "swapper" was with the work. MPV engines are a PIA to work on. The V6 will usually have been neglected because it is so hard to get to. If the swapper put new plugs in and gaskets on the back cylinder head before he installed, you will be ahead.

These engines also tend to break exhaust studs (like 6mm, when they should be 8mm, or more). So listen very carefully for exhaust leaks. If you hear "ticking", it may be a manifold with a broken stud ... It's many hundreds of dollars to pull a rear cylinder head and drill out a broken stud, etc.

If the swapper cleaned the "new" engine well, and it's tight and leak free with new plugs and all, I'd consider this an advantage over a neglected OEM motor any day
smile.gif
 
I would want to know how many miles are on the car since the replacement. If it was done several years ago I would be less concerned. I would want paperwork telling me what year the new engine is and how many miles were on it.

My dad and I bought a 2008 Honda Civic with a bad engine. We bought a used one from a 2011 Civic with 10k fewer miles. It runs great. And actually if you know about the 8th gen civic cracking blocks the problem was fixed in 2009 so this 2008 Civic has a much better engine.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: Donald
It could be a plus is a reman engine or a negative if a junkyard engine that the PO did himself.

Some vehicles like my 2001 Jeep GC 4.0 are likely to need an engine by 100,000 miles due to piston skirt cracking.


What matters is how careful the "swapper" was with the work.
These engines also tend to break exhaust studs (like 6mm, when they should be 8mm, or more). So listen very carefully for exhaust leaks. If you hear "ticking", it may be a manifold with a broken stud ... It's many hundreds of dollars to pull a rear cylinder head and drill out a broken stud, etc.

If the swapper cleaned the "new" engine well, and it's tight and leak free with new plugs and all, I'd consider this an advantage over a neglected OEM motor any day
smile.gif



I had a decent garage put a boneyard motor in my moms 89 caddy - I was a bit worried but it ran better than the ORIGINAL!

Original went at 77K due to AL block leaking at the rear under the bellhousing. Wrong Coolant?
 
I saw the car. It looked like a junkyard engine; was leaking oil. Car had 145k miles. Guy wanted $3500. I declined.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top