time for a water heater

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The 18 year old 50 gallon gas water heater is finally dying...it has had a little leak for a year or more, and the leak has grown enough that I'm finally prying my wallet open and replacing it. I was amazed at the range of bids...$829 to $2450 for a straight replacement, with one outlier at $6000 for a tankless system for the whole house.

I took the low bid because none of the other vendors could give me a reason to spend more, they all had a 6 year warranty, which is a little pathetic too. Why do I feel like I won't get 18 years out of the replacement?!?
 
I don't know how you got 18 years out of a water heater to begin with, Down here, they only last around 10 years. My house came with a water heater and it burst last February, it was 8 years old. I had a new one installed for $850 it is a Rheem, 40 gallon, gas.
 
Just went through this at my parents house. First bid from one of the local "Rooter" franchises was over $2,000 for a 6 year warranty heater. I knew not to call but did anyway because they have a good reputation locally, or so I thought. The guy also said all the duct work didn't meet code.

We ended up getting a 9 year warranty AO Smith from Lowes with installation for $900. The contractor was great, in and out in under a half hour, and the ventilation ducting did meet code, so the other guy tried ripping us off.

The Lowes process went great. Might want to give them a try.
 
I'm on 23 years for a 5 year propane water heater.
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This is one area where a water softener pays for itself. And I removed the anode rod after two years due to it causing a hydrogen sulfide smell in the hot water.

I can get a large enough tankless water heaters for round $2000. Install it myself for probably another $400 or so.

A new standard propane water heater is around $400-$500 for a direct replacement. More double what they use to be. I suppose it's because of the energy saving regulations.
 
My tank is 11 years old.
Rheem 40 Gal / Nat Gas

Last year I removed the Anoide Rod and it still looked good (removal was a learning experience).
Replaced it anyway.
Installed a 3/4" Ball Valve for draining out any sediment.
I also ground a 1/4" hole at Base thru 'outer' cover so that if the 'inner' Tank leaks,
the water will set off the alarm.

 
That relief valve vent is way too close to the ground, typically it's supposed to be about 6 inches. You can get an entire pan for the water heater at Home Depot. When it leaks, it doesn't normally leak from the relief valve. With Shark bite fittings, it's even easier these days to change out a water heater. I guess those guys aren't getting enough business so they've really jacked up the prices.

Water heaters at Home Depot are in the $429-$600 range. They have them in 6, 9 and 12 year designs. The difference would be the anode rod, the 9 probably has a thicker one and the 12 has two rods instead of one like the 6 year. Only other advantage is that the parts of the water heater are also covered, sometimes the thermostat probe goes or the controls. So if you're getting charged $800, that's probably about $300 to install the water heater. Unfortunately, the majority of the job is basically getting the old water heater out of there and getting the new one. The disconnect and hook up is very simple and basic and about the only reason you may need the plumber, but with shark bite fittings, even that is somewhat questionable. Only issues people don't get right is the backflow preventer if need, the venting and securing the gas line properly. And get the same height water heater so you don't have to adjust all the venting.
 
Comparing water heater longevity with anyone but your neighbor is pointless. The tank lifetime is strongly dependent on your specific water chemistry. The cost to install depends on local rates, combined with any additional work that needs to be done.
 
A middle cost glass lined water heater should go 20 +/- 5 years. I installed a $450 40 gallon electric water heater in Cape Coral Fl. in 2000 and it's good so far. Ed
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
A middle cost glass lined water heater should go 20 +/- 5 years. I installed a $450 40 gallon electric water heater in Cape Coral Fl. in 2000 and it's good so far. Ed


It all depends on the water in the area. I install 6 year water heaters all the time and they used to go every 5-7 years like clockwork. Then I started changing out the anode rods and they've started to last a lot longer.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: Eddie
A middle cost glass lined water heater should go 20 +/- 5 years. I installed a $450 40 gallon electric water heater in Cape Coral Fl. in 2000 and it's good so far. Ed


It all depends on the water in the area. I install 6 year water heaters all the time and they used to go every 5-7 years like clockwork. Then I started changing out the anode rods and they've started to last a lot longer.
My water heater on softened well water last well over 20 years. My brothers who lives 20 miles away and on city water had one he replaced when he got a new boiler system. I took his 7 year old water heater home and it was so scaled up inside that it would not drain. I took the drain valve out and there was rust and scale at least 8" deep inside.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
That relief valve vent is way too close to the ground, typically it's supposed to be about 6 inches. You can get an entire pan for the water heater at Home Depot. When it leaks, it doesn't normally leak from the relief valve. With Shark bite fittings, it's even easier these days to change out a water heater. I guess those guys aren't getting enough business so they've really jacked up the prices.


You are correct. Owners Manual shows 6" air gap.
On the List of things to do.
 
Our heater was in the house when we moved in 24 years ago. We have a water softener, it keeps the water heater clean. I partially drain it every year, just get a few spoonfuls of sediment out of it. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
That relief valve vent is way too close to the ground, typically it's supposed to be about 6 inches. You can get an entire pan for the water heater at Home Depot. When it leaks, it doesn't normally leak from the relief valve. With Shark bite fittings, it's even easier these days to change out a water heater. I guess those guys aren't getting enough business so they've really jacked up the prices.


You are correct. Owners Manual shows 6" air gap.
On the List of things to do.


Always gets called out during home inspections, but normally you either see the tube is missing or too short. Hardly ever too long. The best crazy installation of a gas water heater I ever saw was the vent going over a few rooms and into another room. They were using the vent for heat. Luckily nobody died. At least as far as I know.
 
I flush mine out once a year. A 6 year tank has an aluminum anode, a 2 year has a magnesium one. As long as you do a flush, and replace the rod, it'll last many years. Each rod type has its advantages and disadvantages. Magnesium does a better job, but erodes faster, and can make the water smell like sulphur when it's time is up. The aluminum one is not quite as effective, but doesn't erode as fast. I have never had a hot water tank issue by following those two guidelines. But leave that anode out, your tank will rust very quickly
 
We replaced our gas water heater back in 2014. The one we swapped out was the original 1988 gas unit with the house. It was a 40 gallon and the T&P valve was bad. Decided it was better in the long run to just change out the whole unit due to age. We went with a 50 gallon whirlpool energy star gas unit. It's spark ignition and we never run out of hot water. Household of 7 here. Installed on my own and after local rebates it was around $100 with a 10 year warranty. Also got to take the old water heater to the scrapyard. Paid for a lunch date with the wife
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Originally Posted By: Propflux01
I flush mine out once a year. A 6 year tank has an aluminum anode, a 2 year has a magnesium one. As long as you do a flush, and replace the rod, it'll last many years. Each rod type has its advantages and disadvantages. Magnesium does a better job, but erodes faster, and can make the water smell like sulphur when it's time is up. The aluminum one is not quite as effective, but doesn't erode as fast. I have never had a hot water tank issue by following those two guidelines. But leave that anode out, your tank will rust very quickly


Aluminium vs magnesium depends more on the manufacturer and also maybe the water in the area. One type is better than the other but if it's not an issue, magnesium is probably better. Aluminium could cause Alzheimer.
 
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