Wheel Stud Bolt Snapped

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so after caliper problem issue is fixed another issue has cropped up. looks like i tightened up the wheel nut too much and the bolt stud snapped this is front drivers side wheel.

can get a new stud easily but how do i go about replacing it? does the hub have to be removed or is it just a case of using a punch and hammer to knock out the remaining stud and replace it with a new one?
buststud.jpg
 
You have a shouldered flange (back side) and ribbed metal body of the stud in the axle hub and all the threading (pictured) sheared off. You might be able to heat the hub a bit and hit it out, yes.

Would there be clearance enough to insert the replacement?

This is part of the reason I use anti-seize on lugs.
1) Yes, you have to reduce torque with "lubed" threads. Torque specs are for dry thread.
2) No, your wheels won't fly off whilst driving. I'm living proof of that as well as all my friends.
3) I've heard the large size of lug hardware provides a broader range of usable torques.
4) Rusty, scaly threads drag and grab to the point of hanging up-they chatter-and that's what happened in your situation.

Which car in your signature was it?
 
Depends on the degree of difficulty. I would remove the wheel though. However always use a torque wrench in tightening wheel nuts. This prevents what you did, and helps prevent run-out with the roters.
 
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On my Accent I had a front and rear stud snap. This was from messing up the threads using an air wrench to tighten them down.

The front was a PIT due to the heat shield behind the rotor. Hyundai has it as an integral part of the hub and the only way to remove it is to press the hub out of the knuckle.

But there is one spot where the shield does not cover the rear 100%. So I positioned the broke stud there and knocked it out. But to reinstall I had to bend the shield 90* to gain enough clearance.

Terrible design but a bent up shield is no big deal.

Make sure the studs you get are equal to the ones taken out in length.
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda
can get a new stud easily but how do i go about replacing it? does the hub have to be removed or is it just a case of using a punch and hammer to knock out the remaining stud and replace it with a new one?


Depends on the vehicle, some are easier than others, some fronts or backs differ as well.

BTW does everyone here expect everyone else to guess which vehicle is involved in a technical question? I'm not going to dig back into the OP's posting history just to figure out which vehicle.
 
The last time I replaced a stud it was on my wife's 2002 Corolla. I did it the 'wrong' way by giving it one solid smack with a heavy hammer (eye protection mandatory!) and it popped out of the hub. Installing it was just stacking a bunch of greased washers (like a poor-man's thrust bearing) under a reversed (flat side facing in) lug nut and wrenching it down until the stud flange bottomed out. Do NOT go any further than that or you will stress the new stud and probably ruin the threads and even possibly break it. Don't be an ape.

I take no responsibility for hurting your car or yourself if you do it this way.
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda
i think where its thinned out its stretched or something.


Yes and it's a sign that the stud is now junk, as the internal structure of the metal changed and its tensile strength is severely compromised.
Inspect the rest of the studs for this thinning or thread deformation and replace ASAP. Your life could depend on it.
I'm not the one to cry safety, but seeing this stud doesn't inspire any confidence in me that the rest are fine.
 
I think this is an excellent use of a tool to remove and put in / remove wheel studs because you can leave the hub in place.
I can not post just a picture of the tool removing a wheel stud but you can see the images in the Amazon link. I have this separator tool and believe it is strong enough to do the job but might open large enough for your car. Putting them in with this you would flip it so the tightening screw will face away from the hub to give plenty of room.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-...Joint+Separator
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire

Depends on the vehicle, some are easier than others, some fronts or backs differ as well.


Exactly. Have had a couple MDX recently with broken studs as the customer forgot to remove the hub ring when they put their summer OE wheels back on. On the front of an MDX you can not remove/install the stud without removing the hub. That means pulling the hub, when you remove the hub, you have to replace the wheel bearing, that means removing the front knuckle, and after all that, a four wheel align. Turned in to a $700 job. Same job on the back, one hit with a hammer, stud out, push in new stud. Done.

I would never ever use anti seize on the threads, but using closed end wheel nuts will keep the studs clean. The only time I see corroded wheel studs is when people have ditched their OE closed ended ones and replaced with open ended ones that exposes the stud to the elements.
 
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should i put grease on the stud splines the part of the stud that sits in the hub?
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda
should i put grease on the stud splines the part of the stud that sits in the hub?


I'd put a thin coat of anti-seize on them.
 
i have replaced the stud today, very easy job, the rest seemed fine with no obvious thinning. now that i know the size of stud i need i will order few spares just incase.
 
Welcome to the party, pal! When I first started driving, one of the first problems I had with my car on the road was that it lost a wheel stud. The lug nuts were loose. Hmm..? I blamed some imaginary enemy for it but it was really me being a boner at 16 years old, doing the brakes on it but not double checking wheel lug tightness after the job was done.

All I had to do to fix the problem was mosey on down to Pep Boys, get a stud and wheel nut for something like $3.00, and .. maybe an afternoon later, with my hands all scuffed up and my mouth needing washed on account of the profanity utterances, the Cressida was back on the road. I had to remove the wheel, brake caliper and bracket, the rear rotor (frozen on), loosen up and undo the PITA parking brake shoes, and then beat on the stud's stubby remnant until it finally backed off. Installation of the new stud was dirt simple. All I had to do was push it up to the knurled root on the hub, then press it into the hub by tightening the lug nut and some washers over the other side.
The lesson I learned from that escapade is to double check my work when reinstalling fasteners, especially on rotating parts. Dohhh!
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda
i have replaced the stud today, very easy job, the rest seemed fine with no obvious thinning. now that i know the size of stud i need i will order few spares just incase.

Note that wheel studs snap if they are not properly, 100% seated. I hope you used the right tool (such as the one I posted) to push it in 100%. Tightening it with the wheel nut will not properly seat it and any nonzero clearance between the stud head and hub will make the stud snap.
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda
i have replaced the stud today, very easy job, the rest seemed fine with no obvious thinning. now that i know the size of stud i need i will order few spares just incase.


Plase, tell us how you did this? With the tool, myself and Gokhan suggested or another way. I am curious...
 
I don't know how people can seat wheel studs with nuts and washers. In my case they are very tight and this is impossible to do so without stripping the threads or snapping the studs. Even with the tool, it took a lot of torque to fully seat them in. Perhaps some aftermarket studs don't fit very tight? I used OEM studs.
 
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