Changing oil type based on season

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I know there are many Canadians on this board and I myself am Minnesotan, so we obviously get colder weather in the winter and actually quite hot in the summer I have been curious about the idea of running a different weight oil during hotter/colder periods and if anyone has done this or if it is even worth the effort?
 
I still do for the Xterra. Winter it never sees any trailer duty so the recommended 5w20 but summer gets the bit heavier 30 as it also gets to pull trailers
 
Considering the number of days it hits below freezing where I have a camper at Mission Tx probably never have to worry about the W and seeing the locals wearing big puffy winter coats is hilarious when it gets below 50
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Makes a lot of sense where you are.


So I'm not crazy? Lol

Maybe this is common practice to some, I just really haven't spent much time researching my motor oil and filter until recently.
 
Originally Posted By: bioburner
Considering the number of days it hits below freezing where I have a camper at Mission Tx probably never have to worry about the W and seeing the locals wearing big puffy winter coats is hilarious when it gets below 50


Yeah, I have relatives in Florida, people from southern climates get very dramatic at the sight of a snowflake or a temp with a 5 as the first number or only number....
 
Originally Posted By: Andya26
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Makes a lot of sense where you are.
So I'm not crazy? Lol Maybe this is common practice to some, I just really haven't spent much time researching my motor oil and filter until recently.

Best to use 0w20 in the winter, then you can use 5w30 or 0w40 in the summer. If your engine is spec'ed for xw20, then you can just run 0w20 all year around. If summer duty is stressful (towing, autocrossing, etc.), then going to a heavier weight makes sense.
 
Thats the way it should be.
Your car will thank you.
Running same weight year long is not optimal for the car only people
smile.gif
 
I have a bit of an oil stash of assorted grades 5w20, 5w30, 0w20 and 0w40. I tend to change oil twice a year now, once before winter and i typically will put in a 0w20 in for winter run and once spring arrives I dump it for something a bit heavier. I doubt it makes a difference but its not any hassle for me so i do it that way anyways.
 
I'm in fl and run 10w30 year round.

The real question is, are you willing to do the changes?

If yes, then why not, it could make for easier starting on really cold mornings.

If you don't want to worry about it, m1 AFE 0w-30 would be a good option.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I'm in fl and run 10w30 year round.

The real question is, are you willing to do the changes?

If yes, then why not, it could make for easier starting on really cold mornings.

If you don't want to worry about it, m1 AFE 0w-30 would be a good option.


Yes, I enjoy changing my own oil and knowing what I am putting in my car.

M1 0W-30 is the type of oil I have been considering for my older civic. I believe I have read somewhere that M1 is on the lighter spectrum of 30 weight oils as well?
 
Originally Posted By: Andya26
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I'm in fl and run 10w30 year round.

The real question is, are you willing to do the changes?

If yes, then why not, it could make for easier starting on really cold mornings.

If you don't want to worry about it, m1 AFE 0w-30 would be a good option.


Yes, I enjoy changing my own oil and knowing what I am putting in my car.

M1 0W-30 is the type of oil I have been considering for my older civic. I believe I have read somewhere that M1 is on the lighter spectrum of 30 weight oils as well?


HTHS of 3.0 which is where an ILSAC/ resource conserving oil will be for Xw30. M1 5w-30 is 3.1, and the 10w-30 is 3.0.

A thick 30 would be HTHS 3.4-3.5
 
Originally Posted By: Andya26
M1 0W-30 is the type of oil I have been considering for my older civic. I believe I have read somewhere that M1 is on the lighter spectrum of 30 weight oils as well?

Its true that a 0w30 is constructed with thinner base oils than a similar full synthetic 5w30 or 10w30. The "30" hot viscosity is reached by adding more viscosity index improver (VII) chemicals than a 5w30 or 10w30, made with thicker oils, needs.
When the VII chemicals degrade (shear or oxidation), you are left with a slightly thinner oil. Its shear stable to a degree, so usually not a problem.
M1 AFE 0w30 is a good choice; not too much HTHS to be a problem in something spec'ed for a 0w20 or 5w20.
 
Absolutely. I wind up with lots of 0w30 from AZ clearances which makes a great winter oil and a bunch of thick stuff I run in the summer. 5w30 is a unicorn on clearance b/c everyone uses it.
 
I can run conventional during the spring, summer, and fall. Not winter. I run thinner synthetic 5w30 (PP HM) in the winter. Big difference at cold startup. I'll probably use 0w30 or 0w20 when my 5w30 stash is gone.
 
I use 5w30 all year and change oil only in the late fall and spring. When the temp is below -15F a synthetic [group 3] cranks a little easier than conventional so I tend to use a synthetic in the winter. If you are worried about temperature extremes, hot or cold, just use any synthetic oil in a reasonable grade.
 
Personally I think it is a complete waste. People ran conventional 10w30 in their gassers and 15w40 in the diesels for years on the prairies in all 4 seasons and I have yet to hear of a lube related engine failure. Sure they may not be optimal but it worked. Oils have come a long way and I doubt that choosing a 0w or 5w between winter and summer will make a lick of difference or even switching between 20 and 30 weight.

It costs money, takes time and creates unneeded waste.
 
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