:::Any Ideas On What This Might Be (Transmission)

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NDL

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Hello y'all:

I write regarding my Wife's 2008 Chevy Impala, 3.5L V6; 4T60E transmission; 120k miles

It pains me to write this...

When the car reached 60k, the transmission started shifting a little rough. Note: the fluid looked and smelled good. On the advice of another Impala owner, I changed the fluid and filter, which solved the problem.

Now the car has 120k miles. At times, the car will "bump" into first, when accelerating from a dead stop. She slips a little; the "bump" is minor; this is not an abrupt bang into first - nor do I feel this every time I accelerate from a dead stop. The issue is exacerbated when accelerating on a small grade.

I don't feel this shifting issue with any of the other gears. Downshifts are likewise smooth.

My Wife is the primary driver of the car, and I am often the passenger. She has adapted her driving style to suit the problem; if you feather the accelerator from a stop, you will not feel any abnormal shifting behavior. This is why I was alarmed when I came across the problem; with her feathering the accelerator, I didn't even know that a problem existed.

The fluid looks and smells good; the level was a little low, so I topped it off with Lucas.

I am hoping that the issue is no worse than the shift solenoid needing a replacement (though even that repair couldn't have come at a worse time).

Any ideas? Does it sound like a shift solenoid? If so, is it an easy job? How long would it take, and any ideas on what would a shop charge to fix the problem?

Thank you in advance, for your time and guidance
 
Hi NDL,
I just want to point out the following logic steps.
1) At 60,000 miles, the car developed shift quality issues on the original fluid. The original fluid looked and smelled good. Replacement of the fluid and filter solved the issue until
2) At 120,000 miles, or at the same fluid usage interval as 1) above, the car has developed shift quality issues on 60,000 mile-old fluid again. As before, the fluid looks and smells good.

We have established that by this point, given past experience, your transmission fluid and filter need to be replaced.

Logically, you would repeat the process of replacing the fluid and filter.
Instead of repeating the fix that worked previously, you added an additive?! Lucas??!! And you're worried about some shift solenoid without even getting a diagnostic code. I'll tell you one thing, that Lucas isn't doing the solenoid any favors. Really, the big thing IMO is to change the trans filter to keep fluid flow at its peak. A transmission is a fluid coupling. The condition of that fluid, and the flow of that fluid, will dictate whether the transmission will work properly as designed. So why don't you start with the fluid again? Dump out the old stuff, especially the Lucas, put in a new genuine filter and quality ATF, and go from there. It seems like you're due anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Hi NDL,
I just want to point out the following logic steps.
1) At 60,000 miles, the car developed shift quality issues on the original fluid. The original fluid looked and smelled good. Replacement of the fluid and filter solved the issue until
2) At 120,000 miles, or at the same fluid usage interval as 1) above, the car has developed shift quality issues on 60,000 mile-old fluid again. As before, the fluid looks and smells good.

We have established that by this point, given past experience, your transmission fluid and filter need to be replaced.

Logically, you would repeat the process of replacing the fluid and filter.
Instead of repeating the fix that worked previously, you added an additive?! Lucas??!! And you're worried about some shift solenoid without even getting a diagnostic code. I'll tell you one thing, that Lucas isn't doing the solenoid any favors. Really, the big thing IMO is to change the trans filter to keep fluid flow at its peak. A transmission is a fluid coupling. The condition of that fluid, and the flow of that fluid, will dictate whether the transmission will work properly as designed. So why don't you start with the fluid again? Dump out the old stuff, especially the Lucas, put in a new genuine filter and quality ATF, and go from there. It seems like you're due anyway.


Said it MUCH better than I would have.

+1, change the fluid.
 
Solenoid. They come in a set of 4. replace all of them at the same time. My Buick started doing it at 100,000 or so miles. After the miles pile up pretty common. So common that ebay sells the set of 4 for about $60.
 
Yes, as mentioned, fluid, filter and some Lubegard. Specifically the Shudder Fix and Lubegard Red.

Link

Shudder Fix

You can buy that products at different places since I haven't shopped prices. Check Amazon for both.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Hi NDL,
I just want to point out the following logic steps.
1) At 60,000 miles, the car developed shift quality issues on the original fluid. The original fluid looked and smelled good. Replacement of the fluid and filter solved the issue until
2) At 120,000 miles, or at the same fluid usage interval as 1) above, the car has developed shift quality issues on 60,000 mile-old fluid again. As before, the fluid looks and smells good.

We have established that by this point, given past experience, your transmission fluid and filter need to be replaced.

Logically, you would repeat the process of replacing the fluid and filter.
Instead of repeating the fix that worked previously, you added an additive?! Lucas??!! And you're worried about some shift solenoid without even getting a diagnostic code. I'll tell you one thing, that Lucas isn't doing the solenoid any favors. Really, the big thing IMO is to change the trans filter to keep fluid flow at its peak. A transmission is a fluid coupling. The condition of that fluid, and the flow of that fluid, will dictate whether the transmission will work properly as designed. So why don't you start with the fluid again? Dump out the old stuff, especially the Lucas, put in a new genuine filter and quality ATF, and go from there. It seems like you're due anyway.


Appreciate yours, and everyone else's, reply.

I started this thread well into the night (early morning), and edited it for length before posting it. Apparently, half awake, I omitted the part that mentioned me having changed the fluid and filter again, at 116k. When I checked the fluid level at 120k, I noticed the level it was a little off, and topped it off with Lucas.

Sorry that I wasted everyone's time, by omitting this fact. And do I *wish* that a fluid change would have eliminated the problem...unfortunately, the fresh fluid and filter didn't help matters. And yes...I used fluid and (a) filter that are spec. The fluid again looked and smelled good.

Thanks again to all who replied
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Solenoid. They come in a set of 4. replace all of them at the same time. My Buick started doing it at 100,000 or so miles. After the miles pile up pretty common. So common that ebay sells the set of 4 for about $60.


Does it sound like a solenoid issue? Is it something that the average shop would fix? Is it labor intensive (costly)?

Thanks so much
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Yes, as mentioned, fluid, filter and some Lubegard. Specifically the Shudder Fix and Lubegard Red.

Link

Shudder Fix

You can buy that products at different places since I haven't shopped prices. Check Amazon for both.


Appreciate the links, although I think I am done with additives for the moment.
 
I did it myself because I had the time. On a lift it would have been a lot easier. They lower the driver's side down and remove the trans side cover. Youtube videos available.

The solenoids control the shifts and the TCC lock up.
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I did it myself because I had the time. On a lift it would have been a lot easier. They lower the driver's side down and remove the trans side cover. Youtube videos available.

The solenoids control the shifts and the TCC lock up.


Appreciate the explanation. Since you've changed the solenoids, has the problem completely disappeared?

(Please forgive the redundancy in my questions; I still have a old school, "hydraulic," oriented way of thinking, that shifting issues spell major costly problems)
 
Originally Posted By: NDL
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Yes, as mentioned, fluid, filter and some Lubegard. Specifically the Shudder Fix and Lubegard Red.

Link

Shudder Fix

You can buy that products at different places since I haven't shopped prices. Check Amazon for both.


Appreciate the links, although I think I am done with additives for the moment.

I'd change out the fluid again to excise the Lucas and then maybe I would consider an additive at this point like Lubegard - it is a Hail Mary pass at this point, but the downsides are limited. It shouldn't harm your transmission.
 
Originally Posted By: NDL
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I did it myself because I had the time. On a lift it would have been a lot easier. They lower the driver's side down and remove the trans side cover. Youtube videos available.

The solenoids control the shifts and the TCC lock up.


Appreciate the explanation. Since you've changed the solenoids, has the problem completely disappeared?

(Please forgive the redundancy in my questions; I still have a old school, "hydraulic," oriented way of thinking, that shifting issues spell major costly problems)


Yep. The solenoid change cured the problem. That was 30,000 miles ago. I triple checked the fluid level after the change and it has shifted perfectly since. The transmission has only Dexron Vl in it.
Check out the you tube videos.
 
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
I'd change out the fluid again to excise the Lucas and then maybe I would consider an additive at this point like Lubegard - it is a Hail Mary pass at this point, but the downsides are limited. It shouldn't harm your transmission.


I'll keep that in mind. Thank you...

Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Yep. The solenoid change cured the problem. That was 30,000 miles ago. I triple checked the fluid level after the change and it has shifted perfectly since. The transmission has only Dexron Vl in it.
Check out the you tube videos.


Many thanks for the helpful feedback
 
Sounds like a leak in the Input Clutch circuit, It will cause the EXACT symptoms you describe!

There are 3 areas of concern in the Input Clutch circuit.....
1. The Input Clutch Apply Piston inner sealing area gets worn & the Inner Lip Seal can no longer effectively seal against the piston.

2. GM used a "Short Lip" inner seal, This is an extension of #1.....The short Lip allows NO compensation for the Piston wearing.

3. Leaking-Shrunk teflon sealing rings on the Input Clutch Housing.



A combination of #1 & #2 is the usual culprit, Repairing this requires removal of the trans & partial tear down, The piston can most likely be saved by polishing the sealing surface with some fine emroy cloth. Replace the short lip inner seal with a Long Lip design that was factory in TH440-T4/4T60 units. Most aftermarket 4T65E seal kits come with the early long lip design seal.

The Input Clutch & Piston are worked to death in this unit, It is "On" in 1st & 2nd gears & "off" in 3rd & 4th gears.

I don't have any input about "seal conditioners" or other additives to band-aid this well documented issue. Good Luck!
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Originally Posted By: NDL
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I did it myself because I had the time. On a lift it would have been a lot easier. They lower the driver's side down and remove the trans side cover. Youtube videos available.

The solenoids control the shifts and the TCC lock up.


Appreciate the explanation. Since you've changed the solenoids, has the problem completely disappeared?

(Please forgive the redundancy in my questions; I still have a old school, "hydraulic," oriented way of thinking, that shifting issues spell major costly problems)


Yep. The solenoid change cured the problem. That was 30,000 miles ago. I triple checked the fluid level after the change and it has shifted perfectly since. The transmission has only Dexron Vl in it.
Check out the you tube videos.


Hey...in looking online, some sources say that the subframe must be dropped, in order to fully access the side panel. Please tell me that you didn't have to drop the motor, to access the side panel?

Thanks in advance
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Sounds like a leak in the Input Clutch circuit, It will cause the EXACT symptoms you describe!

There are 3 areas of concern in the Input Clutch circuit.....
1. The Input Clutch Apply Piston inner sealing area gets worn & the Inner Lip Seal can no longer effectively seal against the piston.

2. GM used a "Short Lip" inner seal, This is an extension of #1.....The short Lip allows NO compensation for the Piston wearing.

3. Leaking-Shrunk teflon sealing rings on the Input Clutch Housing.



A combination of #1 & #2 is the usual culprit, Repairing this requires removal of the trans & partial tear down, The piston can most likely be saved by polishing the sealing surface with some fine emroy cloth. Replace the short lip inner seal with a Long Lip design that was factory in TH440-T4/4T60 units. Most aftermarket 4T65E seal kits come with the early long lip design seal.

The Input Clutch & Piston are worked to death in this unit, It is "On" in 1st & 2nd gears & "off" in 3rd & 4th gears.

I don't have any input about "seal conditioners" or other additives to band-aid this well documented issue. Good Luck!


Oh man.

I am almost afraid to ask how much a repair like this would cost.

Thanks so much for the detailed information that you provided...Googling this now
 
You lower only the drivers side sub-frame. Not as bad as it sounds. Lower it on the jack to access the side panel.
A reputable shop would probably have this done in 2 hours.
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
You lower only the drivers side sub-frame. Not as bad as it sounds. Lower it on the jack to access the side panel.
A reputable shop would probably have this done in 2 hours.


Appreciate the information. Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Sounds like a leak in the Input Clutch circuit, It will cause the EXACT symptoms you describe!

There are 3 areas of concern in the Input Clutch circuit.....
1. The Input Clutch Apply Piston inner sealing area gets worn & the Inner Lip Seal can no longer effectively seal against the piston.

2. GM used a "Short Lip" inner seal, This is an extension of #1.....The short Lip allows NO compensation for the Piston wearing.

3. Leaking-Shrunk teflon sealing rings on the Input Clutch Housing.



A combination of #1 & #2 is the usual culprit, Repairing this requires removal of the trans & partial tear down, The piston can most likely be saved by polishing the sealing surface with some fine emroy cloth. Replace the short lip inner seal with a Long Lip design that was factory in TH440-T4/4T60 units. Most aftermarket 4T65E seal kits come with the early long lip design seal.

The Input Clutch & Piston are worked to death in this unit, It is "On" in 1st & 2nd gears & "off" in 3rd & 4th gears.

I don't have any input about "seal conditioners" or other additives to band-aid this well documented issue. Good Luck!


I am not being lazy by asking; I did a search, and couldn't find information that the average person would/could understand:

I am reasonably new to Charlotte; it's times like this that stink, because I don't know who's what (which shops are good, and which to avoid). Even the better shops will have a customer gripe from time to time online...

All of that said: is what you described a major job? Is it a major teardown of the transmission? Got any ideas on what a repair might cost?

Thanks in advance
 
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